RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
Does anyone have a pic of how the stock dodge setup interferes with the pass side frame rail? Just curious
Builds Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
- Start date
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At least on one of the proffitt conversions they notched the frame to maintain the stock bracket. I can't remember if it was the alt or ac compressor but it made contact on the passenger side - so they notched it. I would just put together from factory parts.
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I had no clearance issues with the 98 dodge 12v set up on my 4bt. Frame rail is straight so it would just be moved forward 8" I cleaned my frame and made all new brackets so maybe an original gets in the way? I never even looked at keeping the original.
Sent from my SM-G900V
- Thread starter
- #124
I was able to take a bit of time today and get the bolts I needed to get the accessory braket mounted.
Here are some mock up pictures.
I have not received my AC compressor or belt tensioner yet so this is as far as I have gotten.
Altrnator and braket are about 1.5" higher than the valve cover. Bit worried about this but will not know forsure till it's in the engine compartment. I have a bit of wiggle room with the braket and Alternator.
Heater pipe fittings are also mocked up for the most part. On the heater return I have it coming into the bottom of the accessory mount. There is a port to the rear but it's pointed straight at the oil filter. I'll see how this works and if it's not going to work I'll try the other one.
This is the stock hot side that I plugged.
New hot water outlet to heater core.
I plan to tap this for the engine temp sensor.
Here are some mock up pictures.
I have not received my AC compressor or belt tensioner yet so this is as far as I have gotten.
Altrnator and braket are about 1.5" higher than the valve cover. Bit worried about this but will not know forsure till it's in the engine compartment. I have a bit of wiggle room with the braket and Alternator.
Heater pipe fittings are also mocked up for the most part. On the heater return I have it coming into the bottom of the accessory mount. There is a port to the rear but it's pointed straight at the oil filter. I'll see how this works and if it's not going to work I'll try the other one.
This is the stock hot side that I plugged.
New hot water outlet to heater core.
I plan to tap this for the engine temp sensor.
Looks good. My engine temp sensor is on the block under the thermostat housing. Any reason you want it at a difference location?
- Thread starter
- #126
Intresting, I saw that plug. No real reason to be honest. My thought was the most heat will likely be at the back of the head.
I like it under the thermostat so I know exactly when it's going to open.
Thanks for the part numbers and pictures! I'm curious how much a new 22si alternator and AC compressor for that setup cost.
The most heat is definitely at the back of the head, but cooling is not typically an issue with these motors, so any spot will do.
The most heat is definitely at the back of the head, but cooling is not typically an issue with these motors, so any spot will do.
- Thread starter
- #129
A new 150 delco Remy 22si is about $150 on eBay. The AC compressor was $107 for a new Sanden from a sterling truck. It's got the hose connections in the right spot to avoid the oil filter and has the correct 8 rib clutch and pully offset.
I got my used 22si for $50 with the price 8 rib pully. This alternator is for mock up and trail spare since it's not got the tach pin or the 1-2 pins. It will still work just not ideal. So once I know all this will work I'll get a new high amp 22si.
If the electric sender is for your gauge, what does the mechanical sender do/run?
I'd guess electric for factory gauge in dash and mechanical sender for a mechanical gauge for a more accurate temperature reading.
- Thread starter
- #133
I plan to run my factory guage and a small digital one that is more accurate. Once I know it's all solid I may remove the digital one.
3 eyed has it right. Used a mechanical for more accurate numbers but still wanted the dash to work.
@Wheelingnoob do you now if the 6bt in the older bluebird school buses are pretty much the same as the ones out of the 87-98 2500's?
I'm hoping so because I think I can get a bus with 150K on the clock for just over $2500, sell Allison and the rest for scrap and could be into it for about a grand.
I'm hoping so because I think I can get a bus with 150K on the clock for just over $2500, sell Allison and the rest for scrap and could be into it for about a grand.
I know the question isn't directed at me, but I can provide some help. There are minor differences such as accessory mount location, exhaust manifold design and flywheel housing will be an SAE pattern, nothing that should prevent you from buying the motor.
Wouldn't buses come with a engine mounted air compressor in place of vacuum pump?
Possibly, yes, but that's small potatoes. You don't need a vacuum pump in a swap with a cruiser anyway if you switch to hydroboost.
Would be a nice little bonus then.
Oh, I see what you're getting at
OBA!From what I've read, those engine mounted compressors are loud, but are 100% duty cycle and put out a ton of air. Would be sweet if you can fit it in!
