Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (3 Viewers)

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Might be true, but I think I’m a 315 guy all day long.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

On the road again.

New chapter of this Land Cruiser journey. I completed the initial break in drive. Reset my digital odometer/ and speedometer. I took a slow drive out towards Lummi Island. The gears feel different. Lots more engine breaking, it feels better, possibly more natural. The speedometer reads faster now, before it was slower. So I will plan on another 20k and the odometer should should be close to accurate! I'll leave it parked until tomorrow. The next 480miles need to be mellow. Depending upon where you read things need to be under 50 mph. Nitro gears site docent mention an upper speed, but I think I'll play it on the conservative side and try and keep things around 50 (ish?). At 500 miles the gear oil gets drained and I'll check all knuckle arms for loose bolts and bend those fancy Wits End Nut hugger tabs over. I'll check all the bearings for play as well.

I'n the meantime I'm gonna have to hustle on the QPM instal. l have most of my components assembles, but I still haven't decided on which Blue Sea Circuit set up. I'm leaning towards a 12 circuit panel, with two separate circuits. My idea is to have access to one that is always powered so I can charge stuff while im out and asleep, and have access to a future cargo area light. Other than that I think I have most of the small parts to build out that system. Supposedly my 2 gauge crimpers are arriving in the mail today along with a bunch of heat shrink, wire sleeving, etc. I'll be happy to get this electrical stuff all sorted out and finished. Unfortunalty the cruiser is out in the rain again.

Then there is still the question about suspension, and castor correction...which is still undone. Never ending. I may need to wait as I just put a deposit down for a new canopy (topper or camper shell to some of you weirdos) for the Tacoma and it was more expensive than my Craigslist special I found for the '87 mini truck. But given that I have to drive the Land Cruiser to MN in July and likely pull a U-Haul trailer I may need to suck it up and keep spending cash on the rig.

You know someday I'd like to actually wheel it!

Pics to prove my break in milage:

And slow and steady gets you 20 miles in Whatcom County.

 

[Dusten]

On the road again.

New chapter of this Land Cruiser journey. I completed the initial break in drive. Reset my digital odometer/ and speedometer. I took a slow drive out towards Lummi Island. The gears feel different. Lots more engine breaking, it feels better, possibly more natural. The speedometer reads faster now, before it was slower. So I will plan on another 20k and the odometer should should be close to accurate! I'll leave it parked until tomorrow. The next 480miles need to be mellow. Depending upon where you read things need to be under 50 mph. Nitro gears site docent mention an upper speed, but I think I'll play it on the conservative side and try and keep things around 50 (ish?). At 500 miles the gear oil gets drained and I'll check all knuckle arms for loose bolts and bend those fancy Wits End Nut hugger tabs over. I'll check all the bearings for play as well.

I'n the meantime I'm gonna have to hustle on the QPM instal. l have most of my components assembles, but I still haven't decided on which Blue Sea Circuit set up. I'm leaning towards a 12 circuit panel, with two separate circuits. My idea is to have access to one that is always powered so I can charge stuff while im out and asleep, and have access to a future cargo area light. Other than that I think I have most of the small parts to build out that system. Supposedly my 2 gauge crimpers are arriving in the mail today along with a bunch of heat shrink, wire sleeving, etc. I'll be happy to get this electrical stuff all sorted out and finished. Unfortunalty the cruiser is out in the rain again.

Then there is still the question about suspension, and castor correction...which is still undone. Never ending. I may need to wait as I just put a deposit down for a new canopy (topper or camper shell to some of you weirdos) for the Tacoma and it was more expensive than my Craigslist special I found for the '87 mini truck. But given that I have to drive the Land Cruiser to MN in July and likely pull a U-Haul trailer I may need to suck it up and keep spending cash on the rig.

You know someday I'd like to actually wheel it!

Pics to prove my break in milage:
View attachment 3242159

And slow and steady gets you 20 miles in Whatcom County.
View attachment 3242166

I don't see why speed would be an issue.

Everything I've read from Randy's and currie both say to drive for 15-20 minutes in town. Let the diff cool for 30-60 and repeat 2-3 times. Drive normally after that and change the fluid at 500 miles.

 

[FMC80]

Might be true, but I think I’m a 315 guy all day long.

Don’t think. Do. Do 37s. You want to. I know you do. Let’s wait until you get to MN and begin exploring some options.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I don't see why speed would be an issue.

Everything I've read from Randy's and currie both say to drive for 15-20 minutes in town. Let the diff cool for 30-60 and repeat 2-3 times. Drive normally after that and change the fluid at 500 miles.

I follow a person on IG and also on YouTube (Maxx Powell). He has 5.29 installed in his Tacoma. The person from Nitro told him something similar, drive for X amount of minutes pull over let it cool down and repeat.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

This is what I’m seeing as well folks. Three short drives (15-25 miles) with full cool downs to heat treat/ heat cycle, then normal driving conditions until 500 miles. That’s the plan!

As per 37’s, maybe someday Pell, but I’m pretty happy with this tire size.

 

[FMC80]

Congrats on driving your rig, G! I bet it feels so good!!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Congrats on driving your rig, G! I bet it feels so good!!

It really does! It’s actually more fun to use than to wrench on…

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Second shorty drive done. Hoping to run up those miles soon!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Just had a nice chat with Chance @cruiseroutfit about suspension...doing some thinking about those Dobinsons VTT's...

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Third shorty drive done. Brakes feel like mushy dog s***. I noticed a little brake fluid on the front passenger caliper where the line attaches to the caliper during axle rebuild. I tightened that bolt up a tiny bit and cleaned up the brake fluid. I’m not surprised the brakes feel spongy. I have a new LSPV, and a new Master cylinder on the shelf. But I ordered a new brake booster too. I’d just like to have the brake system fresh before I drive to MN in this rig potentially towing a u-haul trailer behind it. Obviously it needs bleeding, and that will happen when I pull these parts.

I really hate doing the brake work. I feel reliant on another person and Mrs TreeOctopus is a very busy lady. Many one of those motive power bleeders is worth a try.

I’m sure you’ll all chime in.

 

[Dusten]

Third shorty drive done. Brakes feel like mushy dog s***. I noticed a little brake fluid on the front passenger caliper where the line attaches to the caliper during axle rebuild. I tightened that bolt up a tiny bit and cleaned up the brake fluid. I’m not surprised the brakes feel spongy. I have a new LSPV, and a new Master cylinder on the shelf. But I ordered a new brake booster too. I’d just like to have the brake system fresh before I drive to MN in this rig potentially towing a u-haul trailer behind it. Obviously it needs bleeding, and that will happen when I pull these parts.

I really hate doing the brake work. I feel reliant on another person and Mrs TreeOctopus is a very busy lady. Many one of those motive power bleeders is worth a try.

I’m sure you’ll all chime in.

The motive is the only way to do it man. I have one if you wanna borrow it

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

The motive is the only way to do it man. I have one if you wanna borrow it

Thank you! It’s time to have my own. Have you used yours with your 80? And do the JDM 80’s with diesels have similar Master cylinder? I ask because I think there are issues with the cap fitting.

 

[Dusten]

Thank you! It’s time to have my own. Have you used yours with your 80? And do the JDM 80’s with diesels have similar Master cylinder? I ask because I think there are issues with the cap fitting.

I haven't bled brakes on mine. But motive has a few "plates" that attach for most JDM style rigs.

 

[TomH]

Some have better luck with this adapter.

Power Probe Brake Bleeder Cap (Which One??? BA07 or BA10?)

EDIT - The answer is BA10 for the 95-97. Thanks @flintknapper! Anyone using the Power Probe products brake bleeder caps for an 80 series? I have a 97 LX450 and their chart says use the universal style (with chains) for Toyota (model BA07) BUT it also says to use the style with 4x retaining...

forum.ih8mud.com

Manufacturer is actually Car Certified Tools.

BA10 - Toyota Small Adapter

Adjustable cam locks. 90-degree male hose coupling. Adjustable O-ring. Aluminum Body. Color Coded. Fits Toyota and Lexus. With a diameter of 1.69 inches. An expandable O-ring adapter with adjustable cam locks.

carcertifiedtools.com

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Some have better luck with this adapter.

Power Probe Brake Bleeder Cap (Which One??? BA07 or BA10?)

EDIT - The answer is BA10 for the 95-97. Thanks @flintknapper! Anyone using the Power Probe products brake bleeder caps for an 80 series? I have a 97 LX450 and their chart says use the universal style (with chains) for Toyota (model BA07) BUT it also says to use the style with 4x retaining...

forum.ih8mud.com

Manufacturer is actually Car Certified Tools.

BA10 - Toyota Small Adapter

Adjustable cam locks. 90-degree male hose coupling. Adjustable O-ring. Aluminum Body. Color Coded. Fits Toyota and Lexus. With a diameter of 1.69 inches. An expandable O-ring adapter with adjustable cam locks.

carcertifiedtools.com

That was what my research revealed as well.

I ordered up a Motive universal and the Power probe Ba10. I’ll report back once they arrive. Now that I’m paying Amazon Prime heaps of money a year for free 5-10 day shipping. I’m sourcing parts from various places. Should all be here next week.

I have a frustrating roof leak on my Subaru that I am sorting it out while it’s not raining. It a story for another forum…

 

[Dusten]

That was what my research revealed as well.

I ordered up a Motive universal and the Power probe Ba10. I’ll report back once they arrive. Now that I’m paying Amazon Prime heaps of money a year for free 5-10 day shipping. I’m sourcing parts from various places. Should all be here next week.

I have a frustrating roof leak on my Subaru that I am sorting it out while it’s not raining. It a story for another forum…

I realized I definitely don't need prime for the little bit I ****ing order. I cancelled mine recently.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I realized I definitely don't need prime for the little bit I f***ing order. I cancelled mine recently.

Well when shipping isn’t really 2 days anymore it feels like a lot of cash!

 

[Feldrian]

I realized I definitely don't need prime for the little bit I f***ing order. I cancelled mine recently.

I work for a competitor and still order hundreds of orders a year from Amazon. I may have a problem.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Do you need me and @JunkCrzr89 to peer pressure you into VTT’s and 37’s?

Can confirm this ares 18003-43mm works
Amazon product ASIN B07JPJSBKW

My motive bleeder was a game changer…. Big fan of those. I sprung for a nice catch bottle with the wire hanger. First time bleeding brakes that didn’t involve any cursing or extra hands.