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- #281
very liberal application of lanolin. I should drive it on dirt road so it doesn't look as tacky. It's thicker than fluid film.
Let's baseline my grandma's neglected, (20 year old to us) 1997 LX450 (2 Viewers)
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- #282
I replaced the brake pads with one for 100 series. I got them from mcgeorge Toyota
must smell like a sheep processing plant when near your truck
(I speak from experience ewwww)
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- #284
It definitely was. Almost a year later, the smell has pretty much disappeared. Now it just looks like a major engine leak.must smell like a sheep processing plant when near your truck
(I speak from experience ewwww)
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- #285
I just upgraded the original panhard bar and steering damper to Dobinsons before dropping it off to a new mechanic to get the leaky fuel tank diagnosed and repaired.
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- #286
Weekend update:
The mallcrawler is at the shop now. The owner laughed at the woolwax job because there's so much of it underneath. He will be getting disposable jump suits for his crew this weekend before they get their hands dirty diagnosing where the fuel leak is coming from. Upon brief inspection, they saw that the rear sway bar is broken. I'm not sure how long it's been broken because I did notice that the rear end has been tilted to the left when I was driving behind it on the road. But I may have also broken it when I was steering the car to the right when I was raising the front axle with the front panhard rod very loosely attached to the axle? Who knows. Welp, I guess I'll have to buy an entire rear sway bar instead of just the bushing.
I diagnosed my relay and tie rod ends. How much resistance is there supposed to be when I twist the rods front and back? There doesn't seem to be any. Anyway, the 555 tie rod end kit I got from cruiserteq.com has arrived. I initially ordered the RHD kit by mistake but a week later they sent over the correct version.
I've updated my parts list on the first page with my next big project: suspension overhaul. I'll post the table below, but you can find it in the front page for reference. But as an overview, I decided to go with upgrading the panhard rods and rear upper and lower control arms to Dobinsons. The front and rear coil springs are still from factory but I will be replacing the rear shocks with toyota OEM. I haven't felt the need to get a lift because I've never taken it offroad just yet, but I plan to take it offroad as soon as the chassis are in good order. Let me take it on a few short trips off road and that will inform me which complete suspension kit to go with.
I've been reading up on replacing the front radius arm bushings, and from reading the manual wherein it says I have to adjust the position of bushing markers properly, and thirdly, forum posts saying to use a ratchet strap to ensure the holes align properly when reinstalling it, I decided to just throw my purse at it and have the shop do that for me instead.
The mallcrawler is at the shop now. The owner laughed at the woolwax job because there's so much of it underneath. He will be getting disposable jump suits for his crew this weekend before they get their hands dirty diagnosing where the fuel leak is coming from. Upon brief inspection, they saw that the rear sway bar is broken. I'm not sure how long it's been broken because I did notice that the rear end has been tilted to the left when I was driving behind it on the road. But I may have also broken it when I was steering the car to the right when I was raising the front axle with the front panhard rod very loosely attached to the axle? Who knows. Welp, I guess I'll have to buy an entire rear sway bar instead of just the bushing.
I diagnosed my relay and tie rod ends. How much resistance is there supposed to be when I twist the rods front and back? There doesn't seem to be any. Anyway, the 555 tie rod end kit I got from cruiserteq.com has arrived. I initially ordered the RHD kit by mistake but a week later they sent over the correct version.
I've updated my parts list on the first page with my next big project: suspension overhaul. I'll post the table below, but you can find it in the front page for reference. But as an overview, I decided to go with upgrading the panhard rods and rear upper and lower control arms to Dobinsons. The front and rear coil springs are still from factory but I will be replacing the rear shocks with toyota OEM. I haven't felt the need to get a lift because I've never taken it offroad just yet, but I plan to take it offroad as soon as the chassis are in good order. Let me take it on a few short trips off road and that will inform me which complete suspension kit to go with.
I've been reading up on replacing the front radius arm bushings, and from reading the manual wherein it says I have to adjust the position of bushing markers properly, and thirdly, forum posts saying to use a ratchet strap to ensure the holes align properly when reinstalling it, I decided to just throw my purse at it and have the shop do that for me instead.
| Project | Component | Part Name (Part Number) | Installed On |
| Steering Linkage | Tie/Relay Rod End | 555 Tie Rod End Kit | |
| Steering Damper | Dobinsons | 3/31/2023 | |
| Front Suspension | Panhard Rod | Dobinsons Adjustable Panhard Rod | 3/31/2023 |
| Sway Bar Links | x2 9017914019 nut x2 4880260120 link | ||
| Sway Bar Bushings | x2 4881560070 bushing x2 9038511021 bushing x2 9056010275 bushing spacer x2 9111261045 stabilizer bolt | ||
| Front Radius Arms | x4 4870260050 bushing x4 9017916015 nut x4 9011916003 bolt x2 4806160010 bushing x2 9017018007 nut x2 9020119011 washer x2 9010518006 | ||
| Rear Suspension | Panhard Rod | Dobinsons Adjustable Panhard Rod | |
| Sway Bar Links | x2 9017908062 nut x4 9094802126 retainer x4 4881730010 link bushing x4 9011908834 bracket bolts x2 4880260030 link x2 9111261045 link bolt x2 9418041000 link nut | ||
| Sway Bar | 4880560021 | ||
| Sway Bar Bushing | x2 4881526020 bushing x2 4882360030 bushing cover x4 bushing cover bolts | ||
| Upper Control Arms | Dobinsons Adjustable UCA | ||
| Lower Control Arms | Dobinsons Adjustable LCA | ||
| Shock Absorbers | x2 4853169545 |
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- #288
I just got the message from the shop but once I get the images from their inspection, I'll post it over here. If the sway bar itself isn't broken then I'll return it.
- Thread starter
- #289
Just got word from the shop and they informed me that it was the end link on the driver side that broke. I will return the sway bar as that's still in good condition.
As far as the fuel leak goes, they found the rust holes on the forward part of the fuel tank towards the top. One of the insulation came off and collected debris.
What's the end result for the fuel cell? A new one or can they patch it some how?
Glad you're able to move forward!
I need to update mine again soon
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- #291
The shop ordered a new fuel tank from the dealer and will replace the old fuel pump as preventive measure since the old one will be removed anyway.What's the end result for the fuel cell? A new one or can they patch it some how?
Glad you're able to move forward!
I need to update mine again soon
Once I get it back next week, I'll work on replacing the rest of the suspension myself.
I'm not looking forward to replacing the bushing on the front radius arms...
Nice.The shop ordered a new fuel tank from the dealer and will replace the old fuel pump as preventive measure since the old one will be removed anyway.
Once I get it back next week, I'll work on replacing the rest of the suspension myself.
I'm not looking forward to replacing the bushing on the front radius arms...
I was going to replace the fuel filter a few months ago but the PO replaced it, unbeknonst to me, just prior to purchase. Shop said it looked "Really good" and had toyota stamped on it...so, it's OEM.
Considering I've only put 23K miles on it since buying it almost 8 years ago, they said it wasn't worth changing out. BUT, it's on my list once I hit 250k on the OD (Currently at 222,xxx).
I'm looking at suspension options; I keep bouncing back and forth between OEM Stock Spring replacements and really good shocks or the OME 2" lift kit. Ultimately I'll place a swing out on the rear by @GGM - 1) because I like his gear and 2) I would like to retain the stock bumper. The ARB dual rear swing out is SUPER nice and sturdy but, I don't really want to drop $3500 (plus shipping) on that. PLUS, I'm still not sure what I'm going to set my rig up for. I don't want to crawl all over rocks but I definitely want something to get me a little more into the back areas...which a LC definitely does, but...a little more but without having to climb a sheer rockface, you know?
Then I'll go for the front ARB bumper and winch...I don't know if stock OEM springs will do the job for that. Ultimately, I'll probably go with 305 tires to round it out.
- Thread starter
- #293
Yeah! I'm on the same boat in terms of what kind of build it's going to be. I want to keep the look stock and not put a heavy bumper. My front bumper has a hudge dent and the paint is peeling off. I'm going to buy the bumper from the dealer and keep the stock look outside. Underneath though, I've already upgraded the front panhard and steering damper to Dobinsons, and for the rear I will go Dobinsons for control arms and panhard rod. I just ordered the replacement bushings for the sway bars from the dealer. The springs and front shocks are still in good condition and I bought a pair of rear shocks from the dealer last year but haven't installed them yet.Nice.
I was going to replace the fuel filter a few months ago but the PO replaced it, unbeknonst to me, just prior to purchase. Shop said it looked "Really good" and had toyota stamped on it...so, it's OEM.
Considering I've only put 23K miles on it since buying it almost 8 years ago, they said it wasn't worth changing out. BUT, it's on my list once I hit 250k on the OD (Currently at 222,xxx).
I'm looking at suspension options; I keep bouncing back and forth between OEM Stock Spring replacements and really good shocks or the OME 2" lift kit. Ultimately I'll place a swing out on the rear by @GGM - 1) because I like his gear and 2) I would like to retain the stock bumper. The ARB dual rear swing out is SUPER nice and sturdy but, I don't really want to drop $3500 (plus shipping) on that. PLUS, I'm still not sure what I'm going to set my rig up for. I don't want to crawl all over rocks but I definitely want something to get me a little more into the back areas...which a LC definitely does, but...a little more but without having to climb a sheer rockface, you know?
Then I'll go for the front ARB bumper and winch...I don't know if stock OEM springs will do the job for that. Ultimately, I'll probably go with 305 tires to round it out.
I don't see the need to get a lift or new set of shocks and springs yet. I'll go with new set of all terrain tires first. I'm thinking of either just going with skinny 32" because it's going to mostly be on the highways but I want it to be able to go on backroads too. Just not any rock crawling.
A rear swing out and roof rack is the most I'll do for upgrade; function over form XD. It's going to be grandma who wants to ride on this truck in the first place
. Much of the upgrades will be at the interior: sound deadening and sound system.
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- #294
sway bar is intact. it was just the sway bar link. It looks like it was removed and not broken off. I took it to a shop that works on suspensions a while back and perhaps they didn't reinstall it after inspecting the suspensions and quoting me 6k for suspension refresh?
Anyway, I picked up a new set of bushings, bracket and sway bar links for both front and rear. The only thing I have left to do outside of replacing shocks and coil springs are the rear track bar, upper and lower control arms, and the front radius arm bushings.
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- #295
here is the state of my old fuel tank and the new one from dealer. it was a leak from rusted out tank towards the front.
$6k for a suspension refresh? Damn, that's like the HIGH end if you grabbed OME or Ironman4x4 and had them do it! What does the "refresh" consist of?
I'm looking at a 2.5" OME lift with steering dampener and bushings for $950 (~$300 off retail) through a buddy of mine who can get them through his work.
Glad you have some movement on your rig!
I'm looking at a 2.5" OME lift with steering dampener and bushings for $950 (~$300 off retail) through a buddy of mine who can get them through his work.
Glad you have some movement on your rig!
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- #297
the guy mentioned aftermarket suspensions for parts and labor: control arms, steering damper, track and sway bars, shocks and springs.
I declined and took it home. I'm going to install Dobinsons for all the suspensions excelt shocks and springs. Im still wondering if I go with stock height or the 1.75in lift, and I'm keeping the sway bars.
The one thing I'm worried about doing is replacing the bushing on the front radius arms and reinstalling it since I have to realign the axle with the frame using ratchet straps which I haven't used before
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- #298
Sway bar link on driver side is now reconnected. I don't feel a difference with it. I have the parts for the other link and bushing and cover for the axle but I'm going to leave them alone for now and work on replacing the tie rod ends and drag link ends.
The steering seems to have some play, and when I installed the new steering damper, I was able to twist the relay rod very easily. That's not supposed to be the case, right? I followed the thread on how to inspect the front end on the FAQ and didn't find any looseness when checking for tie rod or relay rod though (9 and 3 on the wheels)
The steering seems to have some play, and when I installed the new steering damper, I was able to twist the relay rod very easily. That's not supposed to be the case, right? I followed the thread on how to inspect the front end on the FAQ and didn't find any looseness when checking for tie rod or relay rod though (9 and 3 on the wheels)
I was looking for the NAPA "eclipse" brake calipers that are mentioned. Don't seem to find them, see the NAPA Adaptive line. Are these the same? Thanks.
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- #300
not sure. I just went oem.
I just finished replacing my drag link ends and tie rod ends. I ended up ordering new sleeves and Clamps because my old ones were disgusting and rusty. it only took me 3 weeks to finish! most of the time it was waiting for my fuel tank to be replaced. then having to wait for a separate order for the sleeves. The job was actually not too bad.
I still need to bring it to the shop for state inspection and wheel alignment, but I'm leaving for UK tomorrow.
I have to reinstall my other rear sway bar link but thats going to take a while. I got a reverse drill bit and screw extractor. Soaking in liquid wrench didnt help too much. The bolt head broke off. I should have turned it slowly.
