Leland all-aluminum radiators- any reviews? (1 Viewer)

[-Spike-]

Several people have said they purchased the LILAND GLOBAL 1918AA all-aluminum radiator, but I don't see any reviews or performance numbers on them. Anyone care to share? Especially interested in temperatures in hot climates and extreme circumstances, such as long hills, idling, etc.

 

[FirstToy]

bump
I would be interested in any real world reviews as well

 

[lumbee1]

I just purchase the TYC 1918 based on reviews here.

 

[-Spike-]

I just purchase the TYC 1918 based on reviews here.

Lol, probably mine, among others. I'm interested in the Leland at the moment, though.

 

[ERG80]

This is the only info I’ve seen.

Liland all aluminum radiator

The highest temp I recorded running with OBD logging is 188.6 and that's idling after 60 mph driving. Temp drops to about 180 at 60 mph with outdoor temp of 90 deg. I'll update once I do some towing but that is several weeks away. The original radiator core is 1.45" thick and this one is...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[-Spike-]

Well then- paging @Clemson TLC

 

[SmokingRocks]

Do people really struggle with cooling once baselined? How? did they change the temp of thermostat in the 1fz at some point? I'm hauling 7k lbs on stock gears up and over 11,000 ft asl at 90 degree days foot to the floor for damn near an hour and it never breaks 200 degrees with a TYC and modified blue clutch with high cst oil.

 

[lumbee1]

Lol, probably mine, among others. I'm interested in the Leland at the moment, though.

I just pulled the TYC out of the box. Box is undamaged but both sides look like this. Should I send it back?

 

[FirstToy]

Yes, send it back

 

[-Spike-]

I just pulled the TYC out of the box. Box is undamaged but both sides look like this. Should I send it back?
View attachment 2432799

A lot of them come like that, including one I got cheap from Amazon because it had been returned. It doesn't affect anything. I'm pretty sure it happens along their assembly line because I've seen or heard about it so often. I wouldn't return it, but you do you.

FWIW I take the side brackets off and put foam in that space, as well as sealing the whole thing to the core support.

 

[-Spike-]

Do people really struggle with cooling once baselined? How? did they change the temp of thermostat in the 1fz at some point? I'm hauling 7k lbs on stock gears up and over 11,000 ft asl at 90 degree days foot to the floor for damn near an hour and it never breaks 200 degrees with a TYC and modified blue clutch with high cst oil.

I'm not having any issues, also running a TYC, modded fan clutch, etc, but I'm always interested in learning what works. I can't recommend the Leland because I don't know how it does, but people are always asking about all-aluminum radiators, and this could be an option to the Ron Davis big $$ rad. And this is how we learn, through other people's trial and error as well as our own. Would you have bought a TYC if it hadn't been recommended? People come here to find out what they should use when they do baseline their truck, not everyone has already done that. Maybe the Leland is even betterer than the TYC, or whatever brand is the latest gotta-have.

 

[brockdeck]

My rad of choice per $ is the OEM TRad Aluminum/Plastic unit. First one lasted IIRC, 14 years. Second one 8 1/2 years. The Leland seems appealing but I could not bare, personally, putting something with botchy welds like that in my engine bay after seeing a Ron Davis. Now, I will never be fortunate enough to land a Ron Davis, but it would be the way to go imo.

I think the best options are OEM/Koyo/TYC, after that the big $$.

 

[SlowJoe8]

My rad of choice per $ is the OEM TRad Aluminum/Plastic unit. First one lasted IIRC, 14 years. Second one 8 1/2 years. The Leland seems appealing but I could not bare, personally, putting something with botchy welds like that in my engine bay after seeing a Ron Davis. Now, I will never be fortunate enough to land a Ron Davis, but it would be the way to go imo.

I think the best options are OEM/Koyo/TYC, after that the big $$.

I agree and always stick with OEM - built for your car and not really competing with aftermarket brands where quality can be a little spotty.

 

[ChaseTruck]

I agree and always stick with OEM - built for your car and not really competing with aftermarket brands where quality can be a little spotty.

Be sure then you apply that logic also to tires, suspension, and gearing.

 

[SlowJoe8]

Be sure then you apply that logic also to tires, suspension, and gearing.

OP asked about radiators so I gave my opinion about radiators.

 

[lumbee1]

A lot of them come like that, including one I got cheap from Amazon because it had been returned. It doesn't affect anything. I'm pretty sure it happens along their assembly line because I've seen or heard about it so often. I wouldn't return it, but you do you.

FWIW I take the side brackets off and put foam in that space, as well as sealing the whole thing to the core support.

Already shipped back to Rockauto. Thanks for the suggestions. I have some nice 3/4" D shaped gasket that I plan on using around the radiator.

 

[PeterTheBeater]

I don’t have that specific radiator but i do have an ebay aluminum radiator that looks exactly like that. I’ve also replaced my thermostat and a 10k oil blue fan clutch.
On highway i’ve noticed no difference but idle under load like in-n-out or starbucks drive thru it gets heat soaked when it’s really hot out and the temps slowly climb to 212. Daily driving is like 185-190*. It could be the radiator but could also be that i didn’t mod the fan clutch correctly. I’ve added an extra 10* fan upfront and now my temps don’t get past 195* in drive thrus. Located in California so it’s HOT AF here.

 

[Bambusiero]

My TYC 1918 came with the fins slightly crushed on one side, much like that in @lumbee1 photo, but a bit less than that. I judged it to be more of an esthetic issue than performance or reliability, so I shrugged it off and installed anyway - been running that way for a couple of years now - no problems. It's been an extra hot summer season this year, even for Phoenix, with many 113-117F days driving around town with A/C on - typically see 193-195F coolant temp.

I look forward to a field report on the Leland radiator, especially from someone in the low desert (coolant system field test lab).

 

[Bambusiero]

I used contact cement to install soft white EVA weatherstripping to the front edge all around, and it has worked very well and also held up well. Just now got done removing and re-installing the radiator - the foam was still in good shape - needed no attention. Like @-Spike- I closed the gap under the side brackets with foam.

 

[lumbee1]

I received the replacement TYC 1918 and it looks perfect.