LED Lighting_Alu-Cab 270*

Eighteen11R

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Was wondering if anyone has explored the options for LED awning lighting? I've seen some folks hanging their LED strings after awning deployment but I want to do something more permanent, if possible, for my Alu_Cab 270*.
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sdnative

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@LandCruiserPhil use to make and sell something but looks like not available at the moment. Seems pretty straight forward although that design may not work easily with the 270 degree awnings.

 

Eighteen11R

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I'm leaning towards illuminating each of the fully boxed awning arms but I'm not seeing any lighting systems that will handle the three (3) arms of my awning. I was looking at the systems that are marketed for pick up truck bed illumination thinking that most would probably have three light strips to work with.

I also assume that any multi-spectrum (colors) systems would have an in-line controller (black box) of some sort and a four/five wire network to receive/send inputs and power decisions, so any cuts will require some rewiring and solder work...
 

sdnative

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I have used the Maxxima MLS and MSLS line of LED strips and am very happy with the quality and performance. They are sealed and moisture proof, except for the ends which need to be spliced. You can get them in a variety of lengths and color temperatures, even other colors.


They are available on amazon as well.

Just get the appropriate length to run down each of the awning arms, then tie the leads together at the awning pivot above the driver D pillar and run them into a switch or dimmer.
 

Eighteen11R

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Thanks for the leads mates.

I have a very good friend that is giving some 60" strips a shot within his new Ranger pick up bed...and after some preliminary measurements, I believe the 3 @ 60" strips may be a great jump off point.

Amazon product
Having the ability to dim the system, as most of the systems I've seen tend to be too bright, is a major plus. To change the color depending on the requirements has also peaked my interest. I've spent a good deal of my previous life under mitigated white light conditions.

I'd also like to incorporate my newly acquired Jackery 500 as the power source.

More to follow mates.
 

sdnative

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Here are my lights. I am using a white strip and a red strip. They are individually wired to switches on the left side plastic trim next to the fridge.

The red is good as it doesn't affect your night vision too much unlike white. And it's good enough to see by without waking up people sleeping nearby and also doesn't attract bugs as much.

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Eighteen11R

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Thanks for the pics mate. I agree, the red light really reduces the glare. I also like the Blue light option over the white and when dimmed, it enhances the surroundings as well as provides for those inadvertent trips/near falls that might occur without illumination. Appreciate your shared application/thoughts @sdnative
 

Eighteen11R

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So my good friend and neighbor Steve finished up tightening up the wiring and hardened up the cordage some for longevity purposes and it's now onto the placement of the strips. Prior to application of the strips we used some isopropyl alcohol and wiped down the arms' surfaces. Steve has a tape preparation that he applied with a small brush to enhance adhesion for the 3M double faced tape already applied to the strips. Arm 3 attached...

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Arm 2 has a tent pole attached so we went to the side with the LED strip...

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Arm 1 attached...we're thinking the LED strips are not going to go anywhere but the painter's tape will take some of the load while it cures right...

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Wiring tied in together and into the IR Receiver/Controller...added some Xtreme Hook&Loop for the external application while in use. The location for the IR Receiver/Controller provided good reception for the small handheld IR Remote. All colors and dimming functions worked as advertised. The dimming function only has ~5 setting so we'll see if we can mitigate light pollution from down under.

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Power via my new Jackery 500 was plug and play via a heavy duty 12v plug that Steve wired into the system. We agreed, ~6' of cord should give us all the flexibility we need to move the Jackery around or leave it inside the rig. Now we wait for some darkness and see how we did. ;)
 

Eighteen11R

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Not bad in White... Plenty of coverage and great visibility. Dimmer is set at the highest level here.
 

LandLocked93

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Do these wires come thru the rubber, wire tube between body and back hatch?
Or do they lay on/over the hatch seal? If the latter, does water ingress remain uncompromised?
In my 93, the circled area decreases significantly as the rear hatch is opened, causing severe pinching of anything running thru there. Curious how yours is in that way.
Are the wires run thru a pillar from bottom to top in the cargo area (to get to the area circled)?

Is that power to both awning and rack lighting? (assuming you have lights on your rack)
If so, how many rack lights and what wattage each?
TIA
 

Eighteen11R

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Great questions @LandLocked93

My wires just lay in the channel, alongside the rubber weather seal and run down to the bottom corner where it turns in an attempt to mitigate potential water intrusion.

I really didn't want to drill any holes especially breaching the hull. I wanted to keep it very much a quick-disconnect system, both for removal of the awning when not planning on using it and for effortless striking camp to go wheeling after an overnight.

I have no rack lamps installed, but you have me thinking about it now... 🤔 The wire you see in the pic that comes down by the Rhino Rack rear foot is from my GMRS 3dB Ghost antenna as I did no drilling for that application as well.

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Thanks for the interest mate...hope this helps.

Cheers mate,
G
 
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LandLocked93

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Great questions @LandLocked93

My wires just lay in the channel, alongside the rubber weather seal and run down to the bottom corner where it turns in an attempt to mitigate potential water intrusion.
Interesting. I'll take a look at that.
I really didn't want to drill any holes especially breaching the hull. I wanted to keep it very much a quick-disconnect system, both for removal of the awning when not planning on using it and for effortless striking camp to go wheeling after an overnight.
Same here. Trying desperately not to penetrate the roof at least. A small thing maybe, but one less long-term headache imo. But also making it quick disconnect if I want to remove the rack, with a suitable cap for the 'truck-side' disconnect when rack is off. I have 2 solutions in hand, but both require drilling holes and only one accommodates q/d and cap.

Thanks for the response! 👍
 

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