Leaky oil pan fix (1 Viewer)

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I have an oil pan with the OEM skid plate that is spot welded on.

From what I've seen and read, these are known to leak due to crap getting stuck between the bottom of the pan the the top of the skid plate.

Has anyone drilled out the spot welds to remove the skid plate and patch the rusted areas on the bottom of the pan? I'm about to give this a shot and wanted to see if anyone has any tips or recommendations.

Thanks
 
It might work Randy, are you trying this on or off the truck? Just gota watch the baffels if you end up cutting the bottom out. If you want a back up, your more than welcome to my old one.
 
I
t might work Randy, are you trying this on or off the truck? Just gota watch the baffels if you end up cutting the bottom out. If you want a back up, your more than welcome to my old one.

Thanks Pat. I plan on pulling the pan off...again. Will need to be able to thoroughly clean it out & paint after drilling and welding.

Thanks for the offer on your pan, much appreciated. The pan is on my 2H which is different than those on the F engines.
 
Hey Randy:

I had this problem with Clifford, oil slowly oozing around that little skdplate. I pulled the pan, carefully drilled off the spot welds, and surveyed the damage. Pretty ugly:

OilPan1.jpg


I thought about fixing it, then decided to get a used pan, that I bought from Chris Pals. When I got it home, THAT one had the same problem! So, I ended up just buying a new pan.

If you go the new pan route, the OEM paint job is pretty weak, so I gave it a light sanding and 2-3 coats of Rustoleum satin black. Then, I got some black silicone and filled the cavity all the way around that skidplate so water and mud couldn't get in any more.
 
Ken - that's what I think is lurking under the skid plate. If it was a 2F oil pan I might consider getting a new one, but the 2H pans are hard to come by and very spendy. Good idea on the silicone!

Thanks
 
Pulled the pan and drilled out the spot welds. Nifty little spot weld drill bit made it easy and only drills around the outside of the weld.

The oil pan is very rusted under the skid plate and I found three leaks. There are also other thin spots in the skin.

I may be able to weld the holes up but worry about the rust continuing to spread. Would a rust converter, good primer, and paint be enough or would replacing the bottom of the pan be the way to go? Are there any good products like JB Weld or others than could be used to seal the bottom for a solid fix? Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks

Spotweldbit.jpg
skidplateoff.jpg
skidplatedrilled.jpg
 
I sandblasted mine, located the leaks, brazed them and sealed the periphery with silicone like KLF suggersted and no leaks. If I had bought a new one, I'd still seal up the gap.

ED
Oilpan%20001.jpg
Oilpan%20002.jpg
 
Like this?
spotweldcutter.jpg
 
I replaced my leaking F pan with another used pan. P.O. had stuck putty around the area known to hold crud and cause corrosion. That did not seem to be a good idea. I replaced the gasket, etc., and the replacement pan leaked just like the old one!

I would find a new one. That's what I will do this Spring. I'm sick of oil on the floor.
 
Nice job Degnol, looks good. Brazing would be nice but I don't have the tools. I may get the mig to work on the lowest setting. Another challenge is that the internal baffles are the triangle style that block access to the floor of the pan, so welding the inside won't work unless I drill out and remove the baffles.

What type of silicone did you use and would the best for this application?

I would find a new one. That's what I will do this Spring. I'm sick of oil on the floor.
Good idea, but very hard to find a new 2H oil pan and they are very spendy. Seems like the used ones I've seen are in marginal shape and can suffer from the same leaks.

Anyone know of a decent 2H oil pan out there for a reasonable price? :D Will keep working on the one I have unless a better one pops up.

Thanks for the input all.
 
I see 14 tubes of JB weld and a spatula in your future.

:)
 
Nice job Degnol, looks good. Brazing would be nice but I don't have the tools. I may get the mig to work on the lowest setting. Another challenge is that the internal baffles are the triangle style that block access to the floor of the pan, so welding the inside won't work unless I drill out and remove the baffles.

What type of silicone did you use and would the best for this application?


Good idea, but very hard to find a new 2H oil pan and they are very spendy. Seems like the used ones I've seen are in marginal shape and can suffer from the same leaks.

Anyone know of a decent 2H oil pan out there for a reasonable price? :D Will keep working on the one I have unless a better one pops up.

Thanks for the input all.


I took mine to the welding shop at the end of the day with a 12 pack. They just brazed the holes and around the baffles. I used a black silicone/latex paintable caulk. It took a bunch and I did it in 3-4 applications.

GL

Ed


If you have any unseen holes, like under the baffles, they show up very quickly when the rosebud hits them. Residual oil burns like Kuwait. That's why he brazed completely around the baffle in the pic. Before finishing the reinstall, I filled it with about a quart of lacquer thinner and checked for leaks.

And since your skit is off, they can just as easily braze the outside, but that might interfere with re-welding the skid back on, so dunno?
 
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I see 14 tubes of JB weld and a spatula in your future.

:)

7 of the green and 7 of the red at least! :eek:

Randy why not just finish cutting the spot welds out of the baffels, leaving them still attached to the side of the pan. Then cut the rusty crusty part out and replace with 1/8th in stuff. that way you have a skid build into the pan.
 

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