Leaking OEM steelie - WTF? (1 Viewer)

[canman]

My right rear tire started losing air a few weeks back, and I just kept adding air until it would go flat that same day, so I just pulled off the tire expecting to find a nail or screw in the tread, but instead I found a leak in the rim itself. After checking it out, I noticed there is a seam of clear caulking at the interface of the two rim sections. I checked my spare and it has the same caulking. I purchased these new from the Toyota dealer so it is factory. The question is why the hell did they do this, and can I just add some new caulk for a reliable repair?

 

[enox]

I'm not sure as to why, but I wouldn't rely on caulking to hold tire pressure.

 

[Kernal]

IIRC from previous discussions the caulk is put there to prevent rusting in the seam, not to hold pressure. Apparently the backside of that seam is welded at the factory but may develop pinhole leaks in the weld. IIRC (again) someone once suggested using Loctite 290 to seal the leak/pinhole (on the backside if there's a leak)??

Maybe check the backside of the wheel at the seam and double check the rim edge (bead area) for rust or other defects??

 

[canman]

Ok. Thanks. That makes sense. There is definitely a slender crack/opening in the rim below the caulking. I’ll see what I have lying around in shop thaf I can use to try to seal it. Otherwise, I’ll have to havd the tire removed and probably braze it closed.

 

[greentruck]

Yeah, different Steele, but looks like the same problem I had. Your wheel needs to beclean, then baked in an oven until it hits the temp specified by the Loctite 290. When it cools past a certain temp, then you apply the Loctite.
This worked well enough on two of the wheels to continue running, as they hold air well. Two still leak off after a few days, but then seem to hold at around 10 lbs for a bit longer, then finally go to single digits. I have these two on our M101CDN, where the KM2 tires are stiff enough they don’t care about the low pressure around the shop because the M101 is so light.

I’ll try to find the thread and link it here For full details and better recall.

OEM Steel Wheel 42601-60361 Corrosion Issues: Anyone Have This?

Last year I posted about having a leak in one of my 42601-60361 wheels. These were purchased new not long after we bought the truck in order to install some decent tires given several of the alloy wheels were just about toast. I wrote up about finding this leak issue, some hasty (half-arse)...

forum.ih8mud.com

Post in thread 'Need to bring some wheels back to life'
Need to bring some wheels back to life - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/need-to-bring-some-wheels-back-to-life.1194154/post-12921940

 

[canman]

Thanks @greentruck. Sounds like using the Loctite 290 will be a bit tricky if it is that temperature specific. I think I will try brazing it with some low temp braze rod using my MAP torch without removing my tire. Did the same on my flathead oil pan. Will report back when done,

 

[greentruck]

Thanks @greentruck. Sounds like using the Loctite 290 will be a bit tricky if it is that temperature specific. I think I will try brazing it with some low temp braze rod using my MAP torch without removing my tire. Did the same on my flathead oil pan. Will report back when done,

That may work. It did temporarily help with the first rim that was affected here. The problem is that it’s the inside that is more affected, based on my experience. It also seems that it’s more the porosity of the compromised weld than an actual hole that is created.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I think I will try brazing it with some low temp braze rod using my MAP torch without removing my tire.

Do a search on YouTube, see what happens when welding on a sealed and mounted tire goes wrong!!
I'm fairly sure you'd reconsider that option.

Welding can ignite a slow burn fire inside the tire, you create a slow build of pressure as the fire consumes oxygen inside the tire, and creates gases, until BOOM!!!

 

[mudgudgeon]

 

[thatcabledude]

Looks like the weld held!

 

[mudgudgeon]

Looks like the weld held!

Oh, ok. GTG

 

[misfittoy]

lol he's talking about brazing a 1" spot, not throwing down a full stick. However, it wouldn't hurt to pull the core or break the bead.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Yeah mate. She'll be right. What can possibly go wrong? Here, hold my beer



Brazing is still gonna introduce enough heat to burn paint and whatever else is on the inside of the rim.
I'll leave that cluster fųck to someone else

 

[DivByZero]

... and the OP was never heard from again.

 

[canman]

Haha! Good advice, but I doubt brazing a 1/4” crack will be problematic. If it was closer to the bead, yes. Nonetheless, I’m going to try some JB Weld first. Used some on my Mercruiser inboard exhaust manifold on a long hairline crack about 5 yrs ago and it is still holding.

 

[canman]

Got the local garage to pull the tire off as it seems to be leaking in two places. I’m completely baffeled as to how it can be leaking through the steel in the areas circled as it is a one piece stamping as far as I can tell. From the other side (inside surface) there are no visible signs of holes or cracks. Ideas?

Outside of rim.

Inside of rim with corresponding areas circled matching those on the outside.

Toyota sticker.

 

[mudgudgeon]

So it's an outer rim, with a stamped disc in the centre?

Pretty sure this type of wheel is made from a rolled flat sheet for the rim, and the rim will have a but weld. Then the stamped disc welded in the centre.

You may have porosity in a welded seam ?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Spray some dye penetrant on those areas. I can see two or three places that could be cracks but they could just be the photos.

 

[canman]

Sanded both sides down to bare steel and can’t see any visible cracks. Also trying to get the weld seem down to bare metal, as the weld overlaps near where the leak is, so as @mudgudgeon has suggested, there may be porosity in the weld. This is the only thing that would make any sense to me, but still wouldn’t explain the leak closer to the bead edge which is not near the weld seam. I’m going to weld over the weld seam/overlap where the leak is with my MIG, and then add some braze material on the outside surface. The inside of the rim is fairly rusty. The inside of the outer bead was also fairly rusty with flakes of rust present whereas the inside of the inside bead was closer to new like. Will post pics later. Taking a break for lunch. This has turned into a fairly major job as I’m toying with idea of cleaning further in my blast cabinet.

 

[canman]

Decided to just lay a new bead on the inside over the old weld seam and added a bit of weld after grinding out the area of the second leak.