brettk
SILVER Star
80 Series Stainless Filler neck
Replacement fuel filler neck for 80 Series Land Cruisers
www.otramm.com
@OTRAMM sells stainless ones.
Leaking fuel at filler neck under truck (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter canman
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@OTRAMM sells stainless ones.
Hello fellow Canucks and our friends from the North East. If you’ve made it to this thread you already know you have a leaking fuel filler pipe and it needs to be fixed so you don’t torch your truck or house. I just replace mine and did not cut the pipe to fit and I’ll explain why you should do this as well.
The fuel pipe is comprised of the main fuel pipe, a welded on breather hose and a welded on clamp. Mine was leaking I think from the breather line and was particularly bad when I really topped up the tank. As others have noted, it will be leaking at the welded bracket above the frame rail (thanks Toyota). If it got this far, good luck trying to patch it or assume that any patch will be temporary at best.
You also know by now that this part has been discontinued by Toyota...so you’ll have to find an alternative (I Like the new stainless option!). I bought used from Texas
Now, if you’re at this stage with a 23+ year old truck, in this environment, I can also tell you that your body mounts are shot as well. So, buck up and do both. Order a full set of mounts and all mounting hardware (so you don’t care when you snap them off, which you will).
Curse the Rust Gods, briefly fantasize about living in AZ, NM or TX and then settle in for the grim reality of what’s ahead.
1 Remove all the body mounts. I left #1 on for now but removed 2 - 4 +6 (5 is just a rubber cushion) Quite frankly, the hardest part was finding the heads of the mounts for the ones in the cab. I hit them all with a 1/2” impact to get some anger out. They all disintegrated as expected. Honestly this is a
job
2 jack rear of truck up and put on jack stands under rear axle. Chock both front wheels
3 use your jack and a 4x4 block of wood to jack the DS rear body off the frame ~4”. Double check you are on a piece of the body and not catching the frame. I positioned it at a point just forward of the rear DS wheel. Check that the jack stands are still engaged. Add some blocking between the body and the frame in case the jack fails so you don’t crush your melon or hand.
4 With this clearance, you can access the bracket bolts. Despite my fears, the bracket bolts (10MM) were surprisingly easy to remove, just the heads were rusted. Use penetrating oil, hand tools and go slow. If you snap these off it will be a major PITA.
5 For me the major PITA was removing the hose clamps on the filler line at the tank. I ended up carefully using a hack saw blade to cut the clamp as the head of the screw was unusable (Toyota hose clamp steel is tough stuff). I was tempted to use a dremel cutoff wheel but decided the leaking fuel line vapours would probably lead to my wife marrying the neighbour upon my premature death. The challenge is you are in really cramped quarters, so do the best you can
6 If you’re like me, the fuel pipe will disintegrate as you try to remove it. If not, stuff some rags in the fuel lines, air out the garage and cut it
7 Don’t get this far and not replace the fuel and breather line hoses and clamps, you don’t want to do this again in a year when the hose blows for the sake of saving $40. Slip the hoses onto the fuel tank side, attached the hose clamps on the tank side and secure. Slip the 2nd set of hose clamps on before you insert the fuel pipe
8 You may have to practice your Jenga and you will teach your kids some new swear words but the new pipe will fit in perfectly without being cut or removing any other parts. Make sure you have a good 4” of body clearance. Feed the cap side of the filler neck into the body panel and up towards the filler hole. You’ll have to move it around a bit but the lower section of pipe will eventually fit into the area just above the spare tire cross member (if your bolts are in ok condition - which they won’t be - you can remove this for a bit more room). Slide pipe forward towards tank above the cross member. This will make more sense when you are lying under the truck looking up during a slow shower of rust.
9 Shimmy the pipe forward and attach the fuel filler hose and breather line (doesn’t need to be driven home at this stage, don’t secure hose clamps yet)
10. The filler neck will be close to the fuel door but likely not properly positioned. Have your kid stand by the fuel door and as you guide it from the bottom, have them feed the neck into the opening and screw on gas cap.
11 Tell your kid to go back to the house and pour you a beer you’ll be in there in 15 minutes
12 push the fuel pipe home on the hoses. The bracket should be almost in the right place. Wiggle it around as needed and secure the two bolts. Secure the hose clamps.
13 thank a higher being for makIng this part of the job easier than you thought. Go inside and have that beer and tell your wife to stop calling the neighbour. Go back tomorrow and replace your body mounts with the squeaky clean new ones.
I would say this is a job for complexity but for frustration.
Have fun!
The fuel pipe is comprised of the main fuel pipe, a welded on breather hose and a welded on clamp. Mine was leaking I think from the breather line and was particularly bad when I really topped up the tank. As others have noted, it will be leaking at the welded bracket above the frame rail (thanks Toyota). If it got this far, good luck trying to patch it or assume that any patch will be temporary at best.
You also know by now that this part has been discontinued by Toyota...so you’ll have to find an alternative (I Like the new stainless option!). I bought used from Texas
Now, if you’re at this stage with a 23+ year old truck, in this environment, I can also tell you that your body mounts are shot as well. So, buck up and do both. Order a full set of mounts and all mounting hardware (so you don’t care when you snap them off, which you will).
Curse the Rust Gods, briefly fantasize about living in AZ, NM or TX and then settle in for the grim reality of what’s ahead.
1 Remove all the body mounts. I left #1 on for now but removed 2 - 4 +6 (5 is just a rubber cushion) Quite frankly, the hardest part was finding the heads of the mounts for the ones in the cab. I hit them all with a 1/2” impact to get some anger out. They all disintegrated as expected. Honestly this is a
job2 jack rear of truck up and put on jack stands under rear axle. Chock both front wheels
3 use your jack and a 4x4 block of wood to jack the DS rear body off the frame ~4”. Double check you are on a piece of the body and not catching the frame. I positioned it at a point just forward of the rear DS wheel. Check that the jack stands are still engaged. Add some blocking between the body and the frame in case the jack fails so you don’t crush your melon or hand.
4 With this clearance, you can access the bracket bolts. Despite my fears, the bracket bolts (10MM) were surprisingly easy to remove, just the heads were rusted. Use penetrating oil, hand tools and go slow. If you snap these off it will be a major PITA.
5 For me the major PITA was removing the hose clamps on the filler line at the tank. I ended up carefully using a hack saw blade to cut the clamp as the head of the screw was unusable (Toyota hose clamp steel is tough stuff). I was tempted to use a dremel cutoff wheel but decided the leaking fuel line vapours would probably lead to my wife marrying the neighbour upon my premature death. The challenge is you are in really cramped quarters, so do the best you can
6 If you’re like me, the fuel pipe will disintegrate as you try to remove it. If not, stuff some rags in the fuel lines, air out the garage and cut it
7 Don’t get this far and not replace the fuel and breather line hoses and clamps, you don’t want to do this again in a year when the hose blows for the sake of saving $40. Slip the hoses onto the fuel tank side, attached the hose clamps on the tank side and secure. Slip the 2nd set of hose clamps on before you insert the fuel pipe
8 You may have to practice your Jenga and you will teach your kids some new swear words but the new pipe will fit in perfectly without being cut or removing any other parts. Make sure you have a good 4” of body clearance. Feed the cap side of the filler neck into the body panel and up towards the filler hole. You’ll have to move it around a bit but the lower section of pipe will eventually fit into the area just above the spare tire cross member (if your bolts are in ok condition - which they won’t be - you can remove this for a bit more room). Slide pipe forward towards tank above the cross member. This will make more sense when you are lying under the truck looking up during a slow shower of rust.
9 Shimmy the pipe forward and attach the fuel filler hose and breather line (doesn’t need to be driven home at this stage, don’t secure hose clamps yet)
10. The filler neck will be close to the fuel door but likely not properly positioned. Have your kid stand by the fuel door and as you guide it from the bottom, have them feed the neck into the opening and screw on gas cap.
11 Tell your kid to go back to the house and pour you a beer you’ll be in there in 15 minutes
12 push the fuel pipe home on the hoses. The bracket should be almost in the right place. Wiggle it around as needed and secure the two bolts. Secure the hose clamps.
13 thank a higher being for makIng this part of the job easier than you thought. Go inside and have that beer and tell your wife to stop calling the neighbour. Go back tomorrow and replace your body mounts with the squeaky clean new ones.
I would say this is a
job for complexity but for frustration.Have fun!
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
Your's should be ready to head out tomorrow
. Just got tracking on the boxes we need to pack it up.Absolutely. You might as well replace them as you can, despite the added expense. Note the #6 body bushings are no longer stocked by Toyota so you will have to reuse of find an alternative.
OTRAMM you are a genius for manufacturing this part in stainless. I wish your option had been around when I started to stockpile the parts I needed.Your's should be ready to head out tomorrow
Can anyone tell me the best spot to cut the filler neck for reinstalling?
I haven’t installed it yet but was going to line up the OTRAMM pipe with the mounting holes and cut it the same length with one of these...
Finally got around to installing the @OTRAMM stainless filler neck. Took about 3 hours and was pretty straightforward. All hoses and hose clamps required are included in the kit. It replaces all rubber going to the tank as well. Only hiccup was the 1/2” hose provided for connection to the gas tank was only 7” and needed to be 10”. I’m not complaining at all, it’s amazing that this is even available! Thank you!
I cut the filler neck just outside of the frame rail, make this cut as close as you can towards the truck to leave as much as possible. I had to cut the breather tube first with a hack saw then bend it out of the way in order to use the chain style pipe cutter on the main pipe. Pics tell the rest of the story I think.
I cut the filler neck just outside of the frame rail, make this cut as close as you can towards the truck to leave as much as possible. I had to cut the breather tube first with a hack saw then bend it out of the way in order to use the chain style pipe cutter on the main pipe. Pics tell the rest of the story I think.
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A few more
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
Yeah, I totally cut all of the 1/2" hose sections in the last batch too short. Realized it when I went to install mine before Fall Crawl. Sorry about that
Yeah, I totally cut all of the 1/2" hose sections in the last batch too short. Realized it when I went to install mine before Fall Crawl. Sorry about that
no big deal, thanks again for making this! Amazing craftsmanship 
This, body lift and being able to blow out the vent line from both ends. Well worth it.
Maybe this will defy logic, but my mechanic was able to remove the old fuel filler without cutting it or unbolting the body. Got a replacement from a rust free Georgia truck in the classifieds. I had to get a 1.5 inch fuel filler hose from Napa and some constant tension Mishimoto clamps on amazon.
If anyone in the NYC metro area is looking for a shop to do this install, it's Ron at Quick Pick Auto in Teaneck NJ. I guess they can install an uncut filler too!
If anyone in the NYC metro area is looking for a shop to do this install, it's Ron at Quick Pick Auto in Teaneck NJ. I guess they can install an uncut filler too!
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Wow, that was in pretty rough shape. I didn’t even try to remove in one piece, guess it can be done after all...very 
Does anyone know if the tank needs to be drained at all for the Otramm mod? I feel like as long as there is no fuel in the filler neck I shouldn't have to drain the tank?
My filler neck was leaking at main bend above the frame crossmember. I believe because the truck was parked on an angle and tank was over full the fuel sat in the filler neck and leaked out
I ordered the Otramm Filler neck. Slapped a ton of JBweld on suspected leaking area to hold the leak (hopefully) for the next 4 weeks while they make the part.
Hoping I can just flip my truck around and have gas away from filler neck to do this job.
Might try to drive it to half or empty if the JB weld holds enough. Or alternatively any suggestions for draining these tanks without gas getting everywhere?
My filler neck was leaking at main bend above the frame crossmember. I believe because the truck was parked on an angle and tank was over full the fuel sat in the filler neck and leaked out
I ordered the Otramm Filler neck. Slapped a ton of JBweld on suspected leaking area to hold the leak (hopefully) for the next 4 weeks while they make the part.
Hoping I can just flip my truck around and have gas away from filler neck to do this job.
Might try to drive it to half or empty if the JB weld holds enough. Or alternatively any suggestions for draining these tanks without gas getting everywhere?
Drive it until the low fuel warning light comes on and stays on. Then be prepared to deal with almost 5 gallons when you drain the tank.
Appreciate the response @Godwin
My fear is driving with the current fuel leak. Not sure the Jb weld will even hold. Couldn't exactly prep the surface for ideal contact with the JB.
Was only able to scale back as much as I could on top and around the bracket. Used a dental mirror and flashlight to see wtf I was doing. So well see if it even holds. But I have my doubts.
It was a steady drip when parked on a incline.
Do you think I really need to drain it if the fuel is below where the filler neck connects to the tank? Im not cutting old one out with saw. I'll use the fancy chain pipe cutter to avoid sparks
My fear is driving with the current fuel leak. Not sure the Jb weld will even hold. Couldn't exactly prep the surface for ideal contact with the JB.
Was only able to scale back as much as I could on top and around the bracket. Used a dental mirror and flashlight to see wtf I was doing. So well see if it even holds. But I have my doubts.
It was a steady drip when parked on a incline.
Do you think I really need to drain it if the fuel is below where the filler neck connects to the tank? Im not cutting old one out with saw. I'll use the fancy chain pipe cutter to avoid sparks
Mine was probably 1/2 tank when I cut it. Your only cutting at the filler neck near the frame. The tank is connected with rubber and clamps so you should be fine.
