Leaking fuel at filler neck under truck (1 Viewer)

[canman]

On Sunday I was off-roading, and someone noticed fuel leaking from my vehicle. Upon inspection we saw fuel dripping from the filler neck/ vent tube assmebly where there's a bracket welded just above the rear cross member over the rear axle. It appears that it may have cracked from the shock etc of off-raoding. It was very corroded where the bracket is attached to the filler neck/ vent tube assembly. I was just wondering if others have had the same issue, and if they tried to repair, or just replaced the assembly? I put JB Waterweld on the leak for now.

 

[AJP]

I see you are in Canada ... salt corrodes the pipe at the bracket on the frame. Same thing happened to me in Southern Ontario.

My fix was to purchase another filler neck - the breather tube is attached. R&R involves sectioning the new pipe into 2 pieces other wise it will not fit. The pipe is rejoined with hoses and clamps ... a homemade bracket at the filler end secures the "intake" end from wobbling and the bracket (where your corrosion is occurring) secures the other piece.

So far you are the third (all Canadian's) who have experienced this. I think there may be some galvanic reaction assisting the rate of corrosion ... then again .. maybe just salt.

(PS - I tried "POR" but it didn't hold - best fix was the new pipe)

 

[darwink1]

Yup, just got my new tank/pipe/pump ect. last week. My pipe is all flaky rust and gas sporadically leaks from it then drips on the sway bar. This usually happens while filling up or if I fill it till the pump clicks.

Got my new one from a fellow mudder in BC off of a 95 or 96. Great guy and all the parts look brand new which blew me away.

Now I just have to move my ass and put it in.

D

 

[AJP]

Darwink1 makes 4 incidents of this problem I am aware of. Gets worse in the summer when expansion pushes gas ... and plays hell on an asphalt driveway! Probably no fun if you get into an accident either - kinda like a "Pinto". The fix is dependable though.... so far.

 

[darwink1]

Im not looking forward to changing mine. That bracket above the xmember is never coming off and I see broken bolts and a homebrew solution happening.

D

 

[canman]

Stopped at the Lexus dealership last night, and they want CAN$433.00 for the assembly. I will see what I can do to repair the leak, and will post results.

 

[Tools R Us]

Another option, see what an exhaust/muffler shop can do? If the upper part close to the cap is good, have them bend pipe sections for the rest and join with proper hose? I have done this several times for custom tank installs, works great and is cheap.

 

[AJP]

The custom approach might be a good option. FYI the breather tube is welded to the pipe on the OEM. I ordered from Cruiserdan as it was a lot less expensive than the Canadian option even with the UPS charges. Exchange rate isn't too bad right now and if you order up a package of the routine/periodic maintenance/wear items as well it may make sense cost wise. Unfortunatley you are still going to have to section the new pipe to get it in...which is a little disconcerting as you hacksaw a new (and expensive) part -- make sure you cut in the correct place.

 

[green73]

Had the same happen on my '91. I went to NAPA with the old rubber hoses for diameter reference, and replaced everything I could with new fuel safe rubber parts. I ended up having to lower the fuel tank to remove and replace the main fuel inlet hose. It wasn't the easiest task, but it made a great learning experience for my young nephew. I can't remember how much it all cost, but was relatively cheap, IE less than $50

 

[darwink1]

I got the deal of a lifetime I guess. Tank, pump, straps, skid, filler pipe, and gas cap for 450 shipped from BC via greyhound.

Try finding an 80 being parted out that spent its life in a rust free area....

D

 

[ab1985]

I guess I make #6. I just started DD'ing my '97 60 miles round trip each day (prior to this I was doing about 10 miles a day). I filled up tonight and smelled fuel when I went outside an hour later to swap out a shock. Fluid is dripping from the filler hose just above the rear cross member. Any more info on quick fixes? I have a trip this weekend - run the tank at 3/4 or stay home?

 

[breathed]

I had this leak on a previous cruiser. I patched it with some water weld 2 part epoxy putty. It held for a year. I re-patched it with water weld and small aluminum backing plate. It lasted until a falling tree totaled the vehicle.

You can replace the filler neck without cutting it in two, but you have to lift the body off the frame!

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Mine has been leaking in the same place for the better part of a year. I just picked up a non rusted one from someone here parting out a truck. Plan to install it along with my dual filler neck.

 

[superjuice]

I realize this is an old thread but is this where you guys were seeing it leak? Only does it at fill-up but probably not cool to be dumping fuel everywhere. So that filler neck can’t be removed in one piece without lifting the body?

 

[BILT4ME]

I realize this is an old thread but is this where you guys were seeing it leak? Only does it at fill-up but probably not cool to be dumping fuel everywhere. So that filler neck can’t be removed in one piece without lifting the body?

View attachment 2408985View attachment 2408986

Yup. Check with @slow95z or @arcteryx for used parts.

 

[slow95z]

pretty sure i have one neck left. its cheaper if you want it in 2 pieces. if you want one complete you arent going to like my price since i need to lift the body off teh frame a few inches.

 

[arcteryx]

I have some complete ones, I don't cut them. Slow is right, you have to do a butt lift.

 

[superjuice]

pm sent

What’s involved with the butt lift, any threads come to mind that cover this? Is it worth the effort to not cut the neck?

Also, should those rubber parts/hoses above the cross member be replaced while I’m in there?

 

[slow95z]

Imo it's not worth it. The thing already attaches with two rubber lines to the tank. You use your old ones for that and the ones that come with the neck to splice it back. No worse than the factory connection just now it has two of them.

Ever done a body lift on a truck? That's about what you need to do. Take several of the body mounts loose and lift the rear part of the body up about 3 inches or so off the frame.

 

[superjuice]

Oh, so basically just splicing in new parts where the rusted ones are and leaving the rest intact of its in decent shape?

Seems like longer rubber hoses would have the same result but require dropping the tank...threads are becoming clearer now.