leaking clutch linkage??

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genesimmons

genesimmons

Joined
Sep 18, 2022
Messages
39
Location
vernon bc canada
i use my 78 fj as a daily and today i was in a customers drive way and i noticed a oil drip....i climbed under and seen it was dripping from the where the clutch line connects to the linkage, looked like it was comming from the rubber flexible seal that moves, what are some common areas the clutch can leak from, i am hoping for simple bleed screw but i am sure its something more.....:bang:
 
contact @cruisermatt , he is my ANYTHING power train and chassis got to person and shop ,

he will tell you most likly what im gonna say here now

- REPLACE BOTH the master and the SLAVE cylinders as a set together at the same exact time

- DO NOT rebuild them either , this is a POOR CHOICE path as well

or

- you will be stuck on the side of the road or off the road some time in the coming days after you replace the slave cyinder ONLY


the leak is coming from the inners piston seals gone bad , the rubber black seal as you call it is called a Accordion Boot ......


@cruisermatt will set you up correctly with JAPAN parts ........ :)





download (5) - Copy.jpg
 
ToyotaMatt said:
contact @cruisermatt , he is my ANYTHING power train and chassis got to person and shop ,

he will tell you most likly what im gonna say here now

- REPLACE BOTH the master and the SLAVE cylinders as a set together at the same exact time

- DO NOT rebuild them either , this is a POOR CHOICE path as well

or

- you will be stuck on the side of the road or off the road some time in the coming days after you replace the slave cyinder ONLY


the leak is coming from the inners piston seals gone bad , the rubber black seal as you call it is called a Accordion Boot ......


@cruisermatt will set you up correctly with JAPAN parts ........ :)





View attachment 3156824
Click to expand...
thanx for the reply, so the leak is coming from the slave cylinder and traveling on the outside of the line down to the accordian boot.is that th most common spot for leaks to occur?
 
genesimmons said:
thanx for the reply, so the leak is coming from the slave cylinder and traveling on the outside of the line down to the accordian boot.is that th most common spot for leaks to occur?
Click to expand...


NO , not really .....

in fact i would actually re-word your question

- maybe we should RE-WIND time here for a for moments , i would like to hit the PAUSE button .....

- we are starting to speculate about things when there are fundamental UN-KNOWNS at hand here .....

- i make it a point NEVER to speculate rather confirm and verify approach

- speculation causes un-needed stress and stress causes CHAOS , when it comes to approaching any un-known vintage toyota problem


- all i know at the moment is you have a fluid leak of some kind or sort ?



- i see your fairly newer to this place we call MUD .........

- so , please feel WELCOME and WELCOME you are here ! :)


- its always best to open a tech thread stating your model year and series specific vintage toyota platform , i see in your signature line 1978 FJ40..


however , you open with a 78 FJ , not sure what a you mean by a FJ , since you have a 40 series ?


more on the whole FJ reference later , and why its TABOO to use that generic term .......:confused:




ok back to the TECH : :D

- i would make it a point to make darn sure you take the time and make the time to learn how use your IPHONE camera lens feature or a stand alone digital camera ,
and then take creative FLASH MODE manual ON and Manual OFF mode pics , then POST them here it ANY TECH thread you like , related to topic of course ..

- i personally believe knowledge is a form of empowerment , and the MORE direct topic related ALL 6 sides pics approach i one of the keys to final goals met success
what ever they may be at that time ....

- some may not agree with this approach , of the all 6 sides , but if you do any job scope step by steps correctly your first Rodeo , then well .....
no need to stop and double back and repeat steps ........

- can you take some photos NOW of your leaking fluid location please , and report back with them , and POST them ALL here in this SAME exact TECH thread ?


- if you are unsure how to actually do this ? i will help you make this happen , ...:idea:

- in the mean time , i will gather all the related EPC parts diagrams of the hydraulic clutch system , there may only be one , not sure ?

- we will then have a OPEN forum discussion , inviting others to participate and interject there valued thoughts and opinions also here ....

- by the time all the above steps are posted here in this tech thread , i will bet you somebody will have accurately diagnosed your exact trouble spot pinpoint precision !

- the above suggested 411 , of confirm and verify steps are part of TOYOTA's T-TEN Factory Focus Points Mind-Set Approach philosophy ......

- use a yellow #2 common pencil as a pointer in your photos if necessary , i use this tech-method personally and it works super well


i will be back with all the TEq EPC Keys to Your 1978 FJ40 Kingdom shortly posted here ......

- take those tech pics now if you can , now is better then later , because later nothing will happen ........🤔



matt
 
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genesimmons said:
wow wow wow thanx soooooo much for the photos, that explains a lot and the visuall is great, ill get under the ol girl and snap some photos of where i see the oil coming from, but after looking at this i believe u to be correct and its those main seals then coming out the accordian boot on the shaft.
Click to expand...



if you make the poor choice to actually rebuild

a 40+ year old scored and pitted master or slave cylinder of any vintage toyota kind , ?

all the above pitting , scoring and corrosion WILL rapidly eat up and and all new rubber parts you just installed in a very short time window period .........


the big hurdles here are actually removing the above cylinder and re-installing it too


- is the topic of saving the cost of a outback SPECIAL menu item steak house dinner and 1 beer , worth having to do the entire job all over again here in the early winter months ?

- and leaving you stranded on the desolate road side too ?


- generally OLD things mated and meshed with NEW things mechanically and hydraulically do not like each other .......... 🤔





DSCN0683 - Copy - Copy.png

-
 
ToyotaMatt said:
if you make the poor choice to actually rebuild

a 40+ year old scored and pitted master or slave cylinder of any vintage toyota kind , ?

all the above pitting , scoring and corrosion WILL rapidly eat up and and all new rubber parts you just installed in a very short time window period .........


the big hurdles here are actually removing the above cylinder and re-installing it too


- is the topic of saving the cost of a outback SPECIAL menu item steak house dinner and 1 beer , worth having to do the entire job all over again here in the early winter months ?

- and leaving you stranded on the desolate road side too ?


- generally OLD things mated and meshed with NEW things mechanically and hydraulically do
Click to expand...


I could not disagree with you more. One of the many areas that the LandCruiser excells at is it's rebuildability. If that's even a word. We don't throw away a perfectly good cast iron piece just because a little rubber ring went bad. We buy a brand new rubber ring. Clutch cylinder rebuild kits are cheap and easy. Clutch cylinders is a great place to learn. They're not life threatening if they fail. As i said, bad clutch cylinders will not strand you. You can drive with out a clutch. BTDT.
I've rebuilt my own clutch cylinders maybe 4 times in the last 36 years I've owned it. Give it a little hone job, pay attention to what your doing, a shade tree rebuild should last 10 or 12 years.
46 year old cylinder doesn't look so bad...

20211010_122724.jpg


20211010_114559.jpg
 
I usually replace just the failed offending part. Once I replaced both at the same time. The 40 had been sitting for over 20yrs. I've replaced more slaves than masters. I keep a spare slave in each of my 40's and have a master sitting on the shelf in my shop. If I go on a wheeling trip I'll take the master with me. In the past I blown a slave and driven without a clutch, I've also had to replace slaves on the trail. Don't forget the brake fluid and tools. Stay away from aftermarket parts. I buy Toyota, asco, or aisins
 
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Clutch slaves are affordable - so I can agree with both courses of action. However, there is a great deal of personal satisfaction in rebuilding one; and I think everyone should at some point, if nothing more than for the experience.

@Pighead what hone do you use? I need to replace mine, the stone surfaces are worn to the "claw" for the lack of a better term.
 
brian said:
How is a feat of magic like that even possible?
Click to expand...

Motor off place in 1st gear. Light foot on gas. Turn key and as starter turns over the motor it'll crank up. Give it more gas and rev it up. Ease off the gas, pull back on the shift lever and when the engine and transmission speeds match the tranny will drop into 2nd, and generally smoothly. Repeat for 3rd and 4th.

In downshifting you'll ease off the gas, pull the tranny into neutral, blip the accelerator pedal to raise rpm above tranny rpm and as engine rpm drops and matches tranny rpm you can slip it into the next lowest gear.

Every Land Cruiser driver should know how to do this.
 
Godwin said:
Motor off place in 1st gear. Light foot on gas. Turn key and as starter turns over the motor it'll crank up. Give it more gas and rev it up. Ease off the gas, pull back on the shift lever and when the engine and transmission speeds match the tranny will drop into 2nd, and generally smoothly. Repeat for 3rd and 4th.

In downshifting you'll ease off the gas, pull the tranny into neutral, blip the accelerator pedal to raise rpm above tranny rpm and as engine rpm drops and matches tranny rpm you can slip it into the next lowest gear.

Every Land Cruiser driver should know how to do this.
Click to expand...
No way this nonsense is possible.....
 
brian said:
No way this nonsense is possible.....
Click to expand...
Every stick driver has to learn how to double clutch. In the old days that was the only way you could shift before the invention of sincro gears. There will be a time when the clutch goes out and you have no way to get back to civilization.
 
Ive been thinking of adding the clutch hose in stainless braided to my collection of hoses to offer mudders would any one be interested? It would be the same fittings as the stock hose and the hose itself would be like the transmission transfer bypass hoses ive been selling here on mud?
 
yes, I would be interested
 
shipmag said:
Every stick driver has to learn how to double clutch. In the old days that was the only way you could shift before the invention of sincro gears. There will be a time when the clutch goes out and you have no way to get back to civilization.
Click to expand...
If the clutch is broke, whats the point of trying to use it twice?
 
shipmag said:
Ive been thinking of adding the clutch hose in stainless braided to my collection of hoses to offer mudders would any one be interested? It would be the same fittings as the stock hose and the hose itself would be like the transmission transfer bypass hoses ive been selling here on mud?
Click to expand...
@shipmag Yes. Your transmission/transfer case bypass hoses are first-rate, so if you were to offer a clutch hose of similar quality it would be a welcome addition.
Thanks for all that you do.
 
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