Leak from tcase tail shaft housing

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I noticed tonight I have a slight drip coming from the tcase tail housing right where the rear drive shaft bolts up. Anyone else experianced this? I don't have my FSM with me right now so I can't look up what all is in that area. How much is involved is swapping out the seal that I assume is there?
 
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Not leaking from the speedo cable. It is definately dripping out of the back of the tcase. There is a little shield there right at the end of the tail shaft that it is dripping from.
 

powderpig

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If it is the rear out put seal and not the speedo gear o-ring, then it will take some hours and some patientce. Parts needed is the seal, bearing and sealant. Best with a press, but with the proper soft hammers can be done with out one. other special tools, snap ring pliers are a must. good luck robbie
 
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greeaaaatttt. Thanks Robbie.

Edit: I assume I must drop the tcase to do this job, is that correct? How far am I going to be tearing it down?
 

IdahoDoug

 
 
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Josh,

Get the O ring for the speedo output and put it in. Takes 4 minutes if you stop for coffee. Mine looked just like yours sounds. Dry as a bone now, for - what, $2?? I've got one on the way from Cdan right now for my brother in law's 93 - same thing. There's another little rubber boot in there, but mine did not need it. Don't do the hard stuff before the cheap/fast stuff....

Let us know how this works out.

DougM
 

dclee

 
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I had the exact same symptoms. Fix was as Robbie said. Replace the seal. Requires tearing apart the rear transfer case housing, which is no small job. Once I changed the seal, no leak since (been about a year).
 

dclee

 
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Josh83 said:
greeaaaatttt. Thanks Robbie.

Edit: I assume I must drop the tcase to do this job, is that correct? How far am I going to be tearing it down?

You do NOT have to drop the whole T-case. Just remove the rear drive shaft and take off the rear T-case housing. It bolts to the back of the T-case. You'll see when you crawl under there. FSM is a must.
 
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I have an FSM, just not with me at the moment.

Doug, I have no sign of dampness coming from the speedo cable connection at all. I will try to get a pic of it tomorrow so you guys can give me your final opinion before I feed Dans dogs. Between this and the headgasket they should be eating for a few days.
 

Tooth Fairy

 
 
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Mine's been leaking for years now, but, never to the point where it's even made a drop. I'm leaving it alone for now. :rolleyes:

The reason for this aproach is that I know my limitations. You see if it wasn't my car the leak repair would work. Any leak I try to fix on my own junk either gets worse or I create a new one. ;)

Helps to slide over the rocks. :D
 
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Mine leaves a puddle about the size of a silver dollar in 24 hours, so it needs to be changed. I already have the parts ordered from the D-man.:D
 

IdahoDoug

 
 
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OK - doesn't look like the speedo O ring. For those of you wondering, Josh's picture is excellent to see if you need to put a new O ring in. That wire casing in the upper left area of the picture connects using the bellows like rubber boot onto the case with the single bolt you can see below the connection point. If your O ring is leaking, the rubber boot, the connector, and a drip pattern down the side of the case would be the indicator. In Josh's case, that entire area is dry and dusty.

So Josh, unless there's something wet coming from the other side of the case, then it appears you're right that you have a minor drip from your shaft seal.

DougM
 
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The other side looks the same Doug. Dry as a bone. I figure I will get the headgasket knocked out first(dang you for getting Dans valve grind kit! :D) so this will seem easy by comparison.
 

IdahoDoug

 
 
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Heh, so I snagged it out from under your nose, eh? Well, you might also benefit from a video then as I learned a few possible tricks from a couple of old mechanics.

If you want to confirm beyond any doubt what's going on, you can put a dye in your center diff and then watch for it. It would be a shame if it's from grease fling off the drive shaft (check out the floor above your front joint for stalactites with drips) after all that work.

DougM
 
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I would get your DVD but I'm planning to (try to) pull the head Sunday so I can get the head to the machinest on Monday. I'm hoping to have the motor back together by next weekend, depending on how long the machinest needs the head and how long it takes to get my gasket kit. Are you having anything done to your head?
 

IdahoDoug

 
 
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Josh,

Nope. I figure I got mine early so no damage. The oil analysis lab says it looks like it was not overheated to damage anything. So, I'm just going to use brushes and solvent to clean the head, valves and piston tops. THen I'll hand lap the valves to restore their face smoothness if needed.

I'm a little puzzled with coolant in the oil, yet non evident in the cylinders. Could it be that the gasket failied from an oil gallery into a coolant orifice? Strange.

DougM
 
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I don't anticipate any head damage either, but the machinest quoted me $30 to pressure test and check flatness, and then if I decide to have a few thou milled off he said .010-.015 would run about $60. I figure I will have him shave it a little for a boost in power. Why not for $60, you know? I will be anxious to see pics of your gasket and compare it to mine.
 
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