Leak from parking brake drum (1 Viewer)

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Wilmington, NC
I just replaced my rear output pinion seal on my 72 cruiser. After replacing the parking brake assembly, I slid the drum back on the shaft, secured it with the washer and bolt. After that 8 hour ordeal, I still have a leak. This morning I took it all apart and found that I didn't have the shim that goes with the washer.

Does anyone know if the shim is the reason I still have a leak or is it something else. I retightened down the nut to torque specifications and it is still leaking. Any suggestions?

Can I use something besides the shim from a auto parts store or do I need that particular shim? Thanks for any help.
 
I just replaced my rear output pinion seal on my 72 cruiser. After replacing the parking brake assembly, I slid the drum back on the shaft, secured it with the washer and bolt. After that 8 hour ordeal, I still have a leak. This morning I took it all apart and found that I didn't have the shim that goes with the washer.

Does anyone know if the shim is the reason I still have a leak or is it something else. I retightened down the nut to torque specifications and it is still leaking. Any suggestions?

Can I use something besides the shim from a auto parts store or do I need that particular shim? Thanks for any help.

Maybe the infamous rear transfer case seal leak? If your parking brake drum flange is scored, you'll need to slip on a speedi sleeve and replace the rear transfer case seal. If you want the super-duper sure-fire no-leak solution, get the speedi sleeve and Mudrak's dual-seal speedo housing (www.mudrak.com). Worked wonders for me.
 
Please excuse my ignorance concerning speedi sleeves. I am by no means a mechanic. I have a brand new speedi sleeve that I ordered in conjunction with the output seal, but I have not seen anything concening what a speedi sleeve does or even what it is used for or where it even goes.

Any clarification would be great. I have both a new sleeve and an additional output pinion seal.

Thanks again.
 
Used to repair any grooving in output shafts that impair seals. Good way to go if you show any wear... Brian
 
Will not repair slop in output shafts...
 
Get the Mudrak dual seal housing. I just added a speedi sleeve and mine still leaks.
 
Yup, I've had seals leak past speedi sleeves each time (although, it helped and I think it's a good idea) but the Mudrak housing was the cure.
 
A speedy sleeve wont cure bad scoring on shafts due to the sleeve thickness....it will mould into the groove due to the seal running on it in the same spot. Use a slight ammount of metal filler on the shaft and install the sleeve.......Make sure the sleeve is matched to the seal and to the shaft............Have been doing it for years on Detroit Series 60's and Cummins rear mains and no come backs
 
furpants, you didn't say whether your leak was from the perimeter of the drum, or out the center hole where the locknut goes. From the responses you've recieved, everyone has assumed that you are referring to a perimeter leak. From your inquiry about the shim though, I am wondering if you are experiencing a center leak?

If so, you need only clean the output shaft, drum and washer down, then apply silicone to the back of the washer to seal the transfer case from the oil that wanders down the splines of the output shaft.

Best

Mark A.
 
Mark,

You are correct. I am only experiencing the center leak. Once I removed the drum, the parking brake assembly was dry as a bone. No leaks anywhere. It definitely leaking from the shaft area. I will take it back off and reapply some silicon around the washer. Thanks for the help. If anyone else has any more ideas, please don't hesitate to add something. Thanks again.
 
is Mudracks double seal housing a stock one machined out for two?

Yes. The deal is you get one, swap it out and send him your old one.
 
Mark,

You are correct. I am only experiencing the center leak. Once I removed the drum, the parking brake assembly was dry as a bone. No leaks anywhere. It definitely leaking from the shaft area. I will take it back off and reapply some silicon around the washer. Thanks for the help. If anyone else has any more ideas, please don't hesitate to add something. Thanks again.

Hate to revive an old thread but I am also getting leak through the rear shaft of the parking brake assembly.. where should i put the silicone.. here is how it was currently set up...
PARKING BRAKE.jpg
 
All this talk about shims...I just dropped my tranny/transfer today. Figured I better pull the parking brake and take a peek while its out.
No shim on my 69. I check SOR and they list one. Got it ordered up.
Whats with this shim? Any chance of damage from running w/o. Everything looked ok.
 
where should i put the silicone..


On the transfer case side of the large flat washer, after everything has been cleaned well with brake cleaner.


:beer:
 
A speedy sleeve wont cure bad scoring on shafts due to the sleeve thickness....it will mould into the groove due to the seal running on it in the same spot. Use a slight ammount of metal filler on the shaft and install the sleeve.......Make sure the sleeve is matched to the seal and to the shaft............Have been doing it for years on Detroit Series 60's and Cummins rear mains and no come backs

i always use lock tight to fill the grooves before i put on a speedi-sleeve . never had a come back , i have probably installed over a hundred speedi-sleeves , it works well .
 
On the transfer case side of the large flat washer, after everything has been cleaned well with brake cleaner.


:beer:

thanks poser.. i'm gonna use that black silicone - same as i used on my oil pan - should do the trick right?
 
All this talk about shims...I just dropped my tranny/transfer today. Figured I better pull the parking brake and take a peek while its out.
No shim on my 69. I check SOR and they list one. Got it ordered up.
Whats with this shim? Any chance of damage from running w/o. Everything looked ok.

from what i understand it has to do with preload - you would need a fish scale to make sure you are at the right specifications. but if you truck was working fine without the shim i wouldn't worry about putting one in as it will change the preload
 

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