LCA steering knuckle bolts\Suspension Install

[Moby]

After struggling for a half day I found the wonderful tip to drop the LCA to get the coilovers out and back in instead of messing with the steering knuckle to UCA and the steering arm. So much easier.

Two questions before I attack getting the LCAs back on tomorrow (hopefully):

• FSM calls for 221 ft/lbs (!) for the LCA to steering knuckle bolts. What are folks doing for reinstalls? It took my medium impact to get these bolts off. I have a big CDI digital torque wrench that goes to 250 ft/lbs but are there any tricks to getting enough leverage to hit 221? It's hard to see getting enough leverage while under the truck. Get as much torque as possible with it in the air, put the truck on the ground, and brace against the tire?
• The FSM does not call for thread locker but it sure looks like there is red on the bolt threads. Has anyone else seen this?

I hope the ease of getting the coilovers back in with LCAs dropped makes up for what sure looks like fun getting these bolts torqued to spec. I really don't like using an impact for installs (my medium torque limits at 35 ft/lbs tightening and my big 440 ft/lbs just has 5 settings and hope you guess right). If I could find a torque stick in the right range I'd consider it but so far no luck there.

 

[CharlieS]

The best way is on a four post lift. Short of that, I've placed things (55 gal drum, etc.) so I could load the front suspension with my two post lift, but it is definitely sketchy. No idea how you'd do this on ramps or jack stands.

 

[nwfl4runner]

I use rhino ramps, about the only way, and even then it’s a nightmare

 

[empty80]

I’ve did it while swapping out coils and regearing using jack stands. I used thread locker both instances.

I found the easiest way to torque was “rowing.” It lets you get your feet planted on the ground or worst case scenario, in the frame.

Passenger side rear bolt and driver side front is a little trickier, but doable. Just make sure you are pulling directly in line.

It isn’t easy, but it sure is satisfying when it is done.

 

[Moby]

If this can be done on the ground (weight on tires) I'd certainly feel a lot better. No concerns with messing up the torque value with weight on the bolts?

Yes "rowing" with feet braced against the tire (or something else) is what I want to do, but as you all have noted, sketchy on jack stands. I may buy some rhino ramps.

I’ve did it while swapping out coils and regearing using jack stands. I used thread locker both instances.

Red or blue? Looks like red was in there, but I got it out without heat so it may not be "standard" loctite red.

 

[CharlieS]

Yes, absolutely torque with weight on the suspension!

 

[empty80]

If this can be done on the ground (weight on tires) I'd certainly feel a lot better. No concerns with messing up the torque value with weight on the bolts?

Yes "rowing" with feet braced against the tire (or something else) is what I want to do, but as you all have noted, sketchy on jack stands. I may buy some rhino ramps.



Red or blue? Looks like red was in there, but I got it out without heat so it may not be "standard" loctite red.

I used red both times.

 

[bloc]

The stock red stuff isn’t thread locker.. if it was toyota would say the bolt is one-time use, but the FSM has no such language. It is most likely a dry lube because the hardware is such high torque.

So no, I don’t use loctite and recommend others don’t either. Especially red.. taking a torch to a perfectly good steering knuckle to get the bolts out isn’t necessary. Keep in mind we didn’t have to do so to take it apart the first time. At least for mine as soon as clamping force was relieved they spun right out by hand.. no hint of thread locker.

Speaking of, those bolts into the knuckle can be tightened with the wheel off and suspension unloaded. There is no rubber bushing or anything being captured at full extension that would then get twisted when dropping to ride height. I’ve never had an issue with those bolts.. just tighten them with the truck still on jack stands.

It’s the LCA and UCA (if stock or stock-like bonded bushings) pivot bolts that must be tightened at ride height. I leave them hand tight then drive the truck onto ramps and crawl under there to give them 207. I’m not a small person, and it is work.. but I get it done. A big part of the problem for me is the truck not letting the long handle of the wrench clear the ground.

One potential tip.. generally you’ll be much stronger pulling on a wrench than pressing on it, though I don’t think all four are accessible this way, at least with the truck on ramps. I will end up under the truck braced against something usually with one or both legs.. or maybe wedge my shoulders between the skids and the ground.

 

[Moby]

Sounds good, I will just torque, paint pen mark the bolts and check them.

Thanks all, really appreciate the help!

 

[CharlieS]

I might have misread, my comments are about the LCA mount bolts where it attaches to the frame, not the lower ball joint. Apologies if I misunderstood.

 

[Moby]

No problem, but yes I meant the two bolts on opposite sides of the lower ball joint that attach the lower arm to the knuckle. I'm going to get them as tight as possible on multiple jack stands and then finish on the ground with more leverage if needed.

 

[nwfl4runner]

No problem, but yes I meant the two bolts on opposite sides of the lower ball joint that attach the lower arm to the knuckle. I'm going to get them as tight as possible on multiple jack stands and then finish on the ground with more leverage if needed.

Oh - those you’ll hit 220 easy. Just torque away

 

[Moby]

Yup, wasn't that bad. 24" torque wrench. Just needed a foot on the frame for the last 20 ft/lbs.

 

[bloc]

Yup, wasn't that bad. 24" torque wrench. Just needed a foot on the frame for the last 20 ft/lbs.

Nice.

FYI I'm trying to standardize the term "ball joint bridge" for that part here on the boards. It's probably a better idea in my head than in practice.

Just in case I write about that in the future and people are confused..

 

[Moby]

That's a good name for that piece. Without the FSM I would have been challenged a bit to see how that came across so the "bridge" makes sense to me.