LC100 OME Tortion Bar adjustment (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 16, 2020
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Location
Fayetteville AR
Hello LC Fam! Question of the 100'ers. I installed a 2.5" OME suspension lift on my 2006 LC 100 roughly 6 months ago, with "heavy duty" rear springs. Overall the installation was a breeze and I'm very happy with the suspension overall. However, I have one issue I'm working to resolve, and that's the settling of the torsion bars. Below are a few specifics, let me know if any of you have the same issue as well as any corrective actions you can recommend.

1) During the installation, as recommended by the OME universe, I spent a lot of time and effort on the adjustments of the torsion bars to insure the ride height was spot on. This took several rounds of measuring and adjusting. After I got it dialed in I drove it for about 100 miles over a week's time, allowing the torsion bars to settle, which they did. 2.5" settled to 1.5" of lift on the front end during this time frame as expected. I then did a final adjustment on the back end of the torsion bars to regain as much of the lost 1 inch of ride height as possible. I was able to regain 3/4 of an inch, equating to 2 1/4 inch lift. After roughly 6 months, the front end has settled again by roughly 3/4 inch. What I have now is a bit of a stink bug, meaning the back end sits higher than the original intended rake angle.

2) A few facts. The Rig has a custom made front bumper with a warren 1200 winch ( about 300 lbs in total). The back end also has a custom bumper with dual swing-outs, and a full size spare (34 x 11.50), also about 300lbs. I have the factory jump seats in the back at all times in order to keep as much weight on the springs as possible. I also have installed the spidertrax wheel spacers recommended by slee. I believe they are 1.25".

3) When I completed the second adjustment, the torsion bar adjustment bolts were almost maxed out, with only about 1 to 1/2 turn remaining before running our tread. I also noticed that after this adjustment, the front wheels/tires were pulled inward toward the center of the rig making the wheel base slightly more narrow than the back end.

I'm trying to solve two issues, if at all possible.

A) now that the torsion bars have settled, to what I hope is their final position. I'm thinking about taking them out, and increasing the 5 spline preload to somthing more. 7 or 8 perhaps. My logic is that this will reload the torsion bars more which will help counterbalance the settling and help regain a bit more ride height on the front end. I think this is a sound theory, but I'm wondering if there will be any negative impacts as a result. Any thoughts?

B) If I do adjust to a more significant preload , 7-8 splines, and regain a more desirable ride height, I'm certain that the front wheel base will again become more narrow then the back end. To counter this effect, i'm thinking about changing out the front wheel spacers for 1.5 to 1.75", from 1.25" and keeping the back wheel spacers at 1.5". Again, I think this is a sound theory, but wondering what harm I may be doing?

Any thoughts on either point, please let me know!!

Thanks
 
I think you are right with your idea to take them off and increase the preload. you will probably have to go through the settling process again. always take your measurements from the center of the hub.
 
Did you also replace the stock torsion bars with OME?

If OME TB's, surprised you would have to re-index as there should be plenty of adjustment with your set up if they were properly indexed during initial install. What # rear springs: 2863, 2864?

Taking & Noting Lift Measurements: To get the most accurate idea where your suspension is dialed to, it's more helpful to post exact measurements taken from the very center of the grease cap (or center cap) to the edge of the fender lip. Ex. 21.5" Front 22.5" rear etc.

FWIW target rake from back to front should be at least 1" inch (25mm), but factory spec is closer to (60mm) 2.25" ymmv. More or Less rake has in impact on steering input/caster as well as TB's cranked too high (too much lift in the front) will reduce caster, create more wandering, torque steer and reduce CV axle service life.
 
Did you also replace the stock torsion bars with OME?

If OME TB's, surprised you would have to re-index as there should be plenty of adjustment with your set up if they were properly indexed during initial install. What # rear springs: 2863, 2864?

Taking & Noting Lift Measurements: To get the most accurate idea where your suspension is dialed to, it's more helpful to post exact measurements taken from the very center of the grease cap (or center cap) to the edge of the fender lip. Ex. 21.5" Front 22.5" rear etc.

FWIW target rake from back to front should be at least 1" inch (25mm), but factory spec is closer to (60mm) 2.25" ymmv. More or Less rake has in impact on steering input/caster as well as TB's cranked too high (too much lift in the front) will reduce caster, create more wandering, torque steer and reduce CV axle service life.
Yes, I replaced the Stock TB'S with OME.

Rear Springs from Slee : SOF2RH.

I recorded all the measurements, center hub to fender throughout the entire process. As part of the build out and before installing the new suspension, I installed a 1" body lift from Trail Tailor, so my measurement's are 1" higher than stock.

DS. Factory suspension. Center Hub to fender = 20 3/4" After initial settling and adjustments = 22 3/4"
PS. Factory suspension. Center Hub to fender = 20 1/2" After initial settling, and adjustments = 23"

6 months later, both sides had settled by 3/4". I checked the remaining adjustability on each side carefully. The Passengers side had roughly 1/2" of threads remaining, more then enough. The Drivers side, however, had roughly 1/8" of threads which gave me pause about further adjustments.

Last week, I took the TB's out, and adjusted from a 5 spline off-set to 7. The increase to adjustability was massive. I was able to regain the ride height I lost over the first 6 months and there is now roughly 2" or more of remaining threads.
 
After resetting the front end ride height three times, and increasing the 5 spline offset to 7, I'm concerned I have limited the down travel on the front end. Can anyone tell me how much down travel is ideal with with an OME 2.5" lift? Also, is there a simple way to measure the down travel, or identify if my down travel is being limited by how I have the TB's set?
 
After resetting the front end ride height three times, and increasing the 5 spline offset to 7, I'm concerned I have limited the down travel on the front end. Can anyone tell me how much down travel is ideal with with an OME 2.5" lift? Also, is there a simple way to measure the down travel, or identify if my down travel is being limited by how I have the TB's set?

Generally you want at least 50-70mm of droop.

Simple way to measure down travel? Take your hub to fender measurement, then jack the vehicle up until the tire lifts off the ground and measure again. Subtract the first measurement from the second measurement, and that should give you a "droop measurement".

On my son's 00 LC with OME springs/shocks, and SPC UCAs (no body lift), full droop is ~23.5". We've had the best results on his vehicle, when it is adjusted to ~21.0" (or less), which gives us ~65mm of droop [23.5 - 21 = 2.5, 2.5 * 25.4 =63.5mm]. We've had it as high as 21.5", which still leaves ~50mm of droop, but it really does feel a good bit better at 21".

A better written explanation, with instructions:
 
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You're maxed out on front lift. Basically your wheel cannot travel down when it hits a road imperfection. The torsion bar system is the big downfall of the 100 series as it only has 7/7.5 inches of from wheel travel (new Corollas have more than that).

Also your stock height references are off. Stock front hub to fender is 19.25 inches. If you're measuring 23 inches lifted, then that means you've got 3.75 inches of lift and you're riding around full droop.

2.5 inch lift should net you at around 21.75. Nobody here on Mud recommends that you go higher than that.

Yes the torsion bars take some time to settle. Mine took about 8 months and 10k miles. It kept dropping .5 inches every 2-3 months, and I had to keep cranking them. They settled to proper height now where I don't have to adjust them every 2-3 months but it takes time. Flexing them helped and getting slightly airborne in my case.
 
You're maxed out on front lift. Basically your wheel cannot travel down when it hits a road imperfection. The torsion bar system is the big downfall of the 100 series as it only has 7/7.5 inches of from wheel travel (new Corollas have more than that).

Also your stock height references are off. Stock front hub to fender is 19.25 inches. If you're measuring 23 inches lifted, then that means you've got 3.75 inches of lift and you're riding around full droop.

2.5 inch lift should net you at around 21.75. Nobody here on Mud recommends that you go higher than that.

Yes the torsion bars take some time to settle. Mine took about 8 months and 10k miles. It kept dropping .5 inches every 2-3 months, and I had to keep cranking them. They settled to proper height now where I don't have to adjust them every 2-3 months but it takes time. Flexing them helped and getting slightly airborne in my case.
did you catch the 1" body lift?
 
did you catch the 1" body lift?
So what is your droop number.
Do you have aftermarket UCAs, and extended travel shocks like the option Icon has?
 
So what is your droop number.
Do you have aftermarket UCAs, and extended travel shocks like the option Icon has?
I haven't yet measured the droop. The RIG is at the metal shop getting custom rock sliders fab'ed. I will measure this when I get it back for sure!

Yes, I have SPEC Racing UCA's, which are awesome!! I installed OME nitro gas shocks. The Shocks and UCA's were provided by SLEE as part of a complete 2.5" kit. I also shelled out for front and back extended sway bar drop links from Trail Tailor, also awesome.
 
Based on the parts that you've listed, and your description...

From the similarity between your vehicle and my son's (minus the 1" body lift), I'd suspect your full droop with a 1" body lift to measure out ~24.5". Subtract ~70mm (or 2.75") from that, puts your textbook "ideal" at ~21.75". Based on the measurements that you've posted above, (22.75" & 23.0"), as @hickuptruck suggests, you've probably got your torsion bars "cranked" too much (even with a body lift), and haven't left enough droop.
 
Based on the parts that you've listed, and your description...

From the similarity between your vehicle and my son's (minus the 1" body lift), I'd suspect your full droop with a 1" body lift to measure out ~24.5". Subtract ~70mm (or 2.75") from that, puts your textbook "ideal" at ~21.75". Based on the measurements that you've posted above, (22.75" & 23.0"), as @hickuptruck suggests, you've probably got your torsion bars "cranked" too much (even with a body lift), and haven't left enough droop.
Noted with thanks!! But doesn't the 1" body lift equate to the same "ideal" you show to be 21.75? 21.75 + 1 = 22.75. Based on this assumption, my passenger side sitting at 23 would mean I have that side .25" too high which is a simple adjustment to bring it back down to 22.75. Perhaps I'm missing something??
 
Noted with thanks!! But doesn't the 1" body lift equate to the same "ideal" you show to be 21.75? 21.75 + 1 = 22.75. Based on this assumption, my passenger side sitting at 23 would mean I have that side .25" too high which is a simple adjustment to bring it back down to 22.75. Perhaps I'm missing something??
Scratch that.....I think I misunderstood. I believe you are saying that with the 1" body lift, and the 2.5" OME suspension lift. The ideal static ride height is 21.75" Is this accurate? In this case, your son's rig sans body lift sits at 20.75"??
 
Scratch that.....I think I misunderstood. I believe you are saying that with the 1" body lift, and the 2.5" OME suspension lift. The ideal static ride height is 21.75" Is this accurate? In this case, your son's rig sans body lift sits at 20.75"??

"Ideal" (70mm droop) on my son's vehicle would be ~20.75", but it's running a hair over that at 21" (63.5mm droop). Absolute max would be ~21.5" (50mm droop).

My numbers above are purely based on what I've observed/measured on my son's vehicle, which is equipped with OME/SPC. Measure the droop on your vehicle, you may see different numbers.
 

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