Thought I'd post this because I couldn't find anything on it BEFORE I did it...
Just replaced the alternator on a 2001 LX470
searched the net and found zero help... that was a first...
simple steps I'll assume you all know how to be safe so I'll skip that...
1. put truck on ramps... most work will be from below
2. disconnect battery (10mm )
3. remover plastic engine cover and the air box (10mm)
4. in the right fender well there is a small triangle filler piece about 10" long toward the front that connects the inner fender to the frame...has about 6 plastic rivets that hold it on.. you can squeeze most of these from the engine compartment to remove them or pry them out you will need to reuse them, you are removing this piece so you can see what you are doing...
5. remove the front skid pan from below you'll need 1/2" or 13mm socket with short extension
6. remove the serpentine belt you;ll need 9/16 or 14mm socket
7. you'll need to unbolt the power steering pump it has 3 long bolts 14mm you will need a deep well socket that will go through access holes in the pulley, once bolts are removed you need a piece of rope or wire to pull the pump up and out of your way... I tied it through a hole in the pulley... you might need to move where you tie it off to a couple times up and back or up and front depending on what you want to see or do...
8. the alternator has one top nut on the top mounting stud and a long bolt on the bottom both 14mm it also has the rear wire harness plug top and to the side a 4ga wire on a stud with a 10mm nut and a side bracket with a 13mm bolt... unbolt the 14mm top nut and bottom bolt the alternator will be hanging on the top stud... pull forward on the alternator leaving it on the stud for now... you will need lots of light so you can see the rear wire harness... from the top (oh yeah I needed a 4ft ladder to be able to reach in from the top) pull back the rubber boot squeeze the clip and pull the connection from the rear of the alternator... from below 13mm socket on a 1/4 drive ratchet by feel you need to remover the 13mm bolt the holds some bracket to the side of the alternator... yes they used the alternator as a mounting point for some wires or lines... you have to MAKE room to get the socket on... now pull the alternator as far forward as you can get it and move back to the top... the 4ga wire on the stud is under a plastic cover... pop that cover off... under that cover is a 10mm nut a LONG extension with a 10mm socket will help here... now your alternator is FREE back under the truck to get it out... you will need to push/bend several lines and hoses around down and out of the way i used a small 1x2 wood stick to kinda pry a few of them to open up a hole to get the alternator out... mounting brackets of the alternator toward the engine worked for me... this should take less than 1 hr to remove... i did use a small cheater bar to break the bolts loose on the pump and alternator... I took mine to a local rebuilder and they charged $125 to rebuild it and that took 1 day... while it was there I took the time to replace the spark plugs and changed the oil... I also got a new serpentine belt...
replacement was far faster and easier that I thought it would be... pushed alternator up from below... with it off the mounting stud and held in place with a rope around the pulley to hold it in place I connected the rear harness and the 4ga wire to the side stud... then slid it onto the top mounting stud... this all from the top... then from below I bolted on the bracket to the side with the 13mm bolt... from there it's just a reverse of what you have done...
everything I found on the net and the manuals say you have to remove the radiator NOT SO one guy said at the least remove the lower radiator hose NOT SO... you need the ladder because the truck is up on the ramps a foot off the ground... and a lot of light helps drop light and flash light I used a 1/4 drive ratchet with a couple different extensions and a 10mm and a 13mm socket, a 3/8 ratchet with a deep well 14mm socket and a 14" long piece of 3/4" metal conduit as a cheater bar to break bolts loose and i used a 1/2" drive with a deep 14mm putting it back together... this was maybe a 5 on a 10 scale on hard to do...it'd be a 3 if you had done it before... hope this helps someone
pony
Just replaced the alternator on a 2001 LX470
searched the net and found zero help... that was a first...
simple steps I'll assume you all know how to be safe so I'll skip that...
1. put truck on ramps... most work will be from below
2. disconnect battery (10mm )
3. remover plastic engine cover and the air box (10mm)
4. in the right fender well there is a small triangle filler piece about 10" long toward the front that connects the inner fender to the frame...has about 6 plastic rivets that hold it on.. you can squeeze most of these from the engine compartment to remove them or pry them out you will need to reuse them, you are removing this piece so you can see what you are doing...
5. remove the front skid pan from below you'll need 1/2" or 13mm socket with short extension
6. remove the serpentine belt you;ll need 9/16 or 14mm socket
7. you'll need to unbolt the power steering pump it has 3 long bolts 14mm you will need a deep well socket that will go through access holes in the pulley, once bolts are removed you need a piece of rope or wire to pull the pump up and out of your way... I tied it through a hole in the pulley... you might need to move where you tie it off to a couple times up and back or up and front depending on what you want to see or do...
8. the alternator has one top nut on the top mounting stud and a long bolt on the bottom both 14mm it also has the rear wire harness plug top and to the side a 4ga wire on a stud with a 10mm nut and a side bracket with a 13mm bolt... unbolt the 14mm top nut and bottom bolt the alternator will be hanging on the top stud... pull forward on the alternator leaving it on the stud for now... you will need lots of light so you can see the rear wire harness... from the top (oh yeah I needed a 4ft ladder to be able to reach in from the top) pull back the rubber boot squeeze the clip and pull the connection from the rear of the alternator... from below 13mm socket on a 1/4 drive ratchet by feel you need to remover the 13mm bolt the holds some bracket to the side of the alternator... yes they used the alternator as a mounting point for some wires or lines... you have to MAKE room to get the socket on... now pull the alternator as far forward as you can get it and move back to the top... the 4ga wire on the stud is under a plastic cover... pop that cover off... under that cover is a 10mm nut a LONG extension with a 10mm socket will help here... now your alternator is FREE back under the truck to get it out... you will need to push/bend several lines and hoses around down and out of the way i used a small 1x2 wood stick to kinda pry a few of them to open up a hole to get the alternator out... mounting brackets of the alternator toward the engine worked for me... this should take less than 1 hr to remove... i did use a small cheater bar to break the bolts loose on the pump and alternator... I took mine to a local rebuilder and they charged $125 to rebuild it and that took 1 day... while it was there I took the time to replace the spark plugs and changed the oil... I also got a new serpentine belt...
replacement was far faster and easier that I thought it would be... pushed alternator up from below... with it off the mounting stud and held in place with a rope around the pulley to hold it in place I connected the rear harness and the 4ga wire to the side stud... then slid it onto the top mounting stud... this all from the top... then from below I bolted on the bracket to the side with the 13mm bolt... from there it's just a reverse of what you have done...
everything I found on the net and the manuals say you have to remove the radiator NOT SO one guy said at the least remove the lower radiator hose NOT SO... you need the ladder because the truck is up on the ramps a foot off the ground... and a lot of light helps drop light and flash light I used a 1/4 drive ratchet with a couple different extensions and a 10mm and a 13mm socket, a 3/8 ratchet with a deep well 14mm socket and a 14" long piece of 3/4" metal conduit as a cheater bar to break bolts loose and i used a 1/2" drive with a deep 14mm putting it back together... this was maybe a 5 on a 10 scale on hard to do...it'd be a 3 if you had done it before... hope this helps someone
pony