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Last resort for help on bj60 purchase

Discussion in 'Diesel Tech / 24 volts' started by fj803fe, Jan 5, 2004.

  1. fj803fe

    fj803fe

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    I'm at my witts end, posts to the general forum, the 3fe list, and the for sale list on IH8MUD. Please help. I am going to the bank tomorrow to make the final sentencing for myself in case I make a crazy decision.

    Mostly, I know nothing of the diesel engines, never had one either. I want to make sure I am not getting screwed. This 60 is in pretty good shape body wise, the doors are bad but I found very good replacements already.

    This of course is the only bj60 I have ever seen or heard of in my part of the country. The engine is oily-signs on the front diff from blow-by? It also appears that there is a sweating timing cover and leaks from the RH side if sitting in the vehicle. The source looks like the access cover that is common on the petrols as well, on the block-yes? The transfer shift has a whine or very slight grind when driving and disapears if you hold it from falling back-my 78 2F 40 did this as well as my 85 4runner 22re. Is this something to be concerned about or a linkage problem?

    The guy is asking $8500 made a pretty good effort to justify the cost, I said it would need to come down some-he came back to $7700.

    It looks like an aftermarket air intake as well, and a blotched attempt at a snorkel. I'd like to know how much is rigged in the engine bay, and how much is stock, but as I said I have never seen a Toy diesel before.

    Thanks for any direction

    Pierto
     
  2. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Do you have ANY pics of this???

    -Steve
     
  3. fj803fe

    fj803fe

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    Better yet, can anyone take a pic of thier 3B? Just as a reference at least? Moreover, where might the sedimenter live on the 84 BJ60?
     
  4. fj803fe

    fj803fe

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    Unfortunately no, I was an idiot and forgot my camera-though I may see it tomorrow. I may tell the guy I need some more sweating time as I stress over this, and distribute some pics. But, might you be implying if its pretty strait $7700 US may not be bad-especially due to its relative rarity here?


    [quote author=Poser link=board=21;threadid=9707;start=msg85313#msg85313 date=1073366896]
    Do you have ANY pics of this???

    -Steve
    [/quote]
     
  5. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    I am not implying anything, and DO NOT read into anything I, or anyone else posts on this, or any topic.

    Now,

    If you are not afraid of spending A LOT, read another seven grand on the truck to take care of any unforseen issues that may arise, and again, if money is not an issue, then go for it.


    Personally, I would wait, but I am not the one with the hard on for a Toyota diesel. I guess that the novelty of it has wore off, and it is just another mechanical thing that you will need to jump through certian hoops in order to get product support for, and have to learn diesels, or find someone that you trust to be your wrench. I am comfortable around anything mechanical, but I am not eager for a new carreer/hobby in a diesel Toyota... I have WAY TOO MANY other lifetimes worth of projects to focus on....


    Look for another one. Granted, you may not find one right away, but you will. Take a lot of pictures, and study them, so that the next time you see one of these trucks, hopefully, you will have a little better idea about them. Do not be in a hurry, you will only pay more for the tuition....

    Good luck!

    -Steve
     
  6. theferg

    theferg

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    What's the mileage? Any rust? Those Canadian rigs are even more notorious for being rusty than rigs from back east. Now I'm not the end all know all, but that price sounds a bit high for the rig that your explaining. Ya, BJs are pretty rare here in the states, but from your post, I'm kinda scared. My suggestion would be to pass and just get a bit more money and buy a 1HZ/H55/split case and put it in a clean FJ60. I just checked G&S Cruiser Parts and they have that combo listed for $7000 CDN (which is roughly $5500 US). They also have B engines as well that would be even less money to purchase. Some guy posted here on CCOT's BB that it cost him $1500 to repower his FJ55 with a B engine INCLUDING a turbo and intercooler. :eek: Anyway, like I said, I don't know it all and besides, it's totally your decision, but just wanted to throw out my opinion and another option for ya.

    -Ferg-
     
  7. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

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    Post up pic's of your engine bay and I'll let you know if they match. I've driven BJ60's for 15 years and would not drive anything else! Check the rear frame rails for rust, primarily where the crossmember that supports the shocks attaches to. Generally doors are not the first place for rust to begin which has me concerned that it is a half done restoration. If the seller will allow, remove the rear cargo area trim panel on the drivers side and see if there is evidence of rust repair in the dog leg area.
    The sedimenter is on the inside of the frame rail about under the rear passenger door on the passenger side. It's a small black canister with a bolt in the bottom to drain it.
    For what it's worth, up here a clean BJ60 can go for as much as $15,000. Beat or rusty ones I've seen for as low as $1000 but they get snapped up instantly at that price.
    Do a compression check and post up your results. The leaky side cover is a problem all of us BJ owners are constantly fighting. Oily front diff could be blowby, it could also be as innocent as dripping from removing the oil filter located directly above. Mine are a mess from the latter, I figure it's extra lubrication!
     
  8. Radd Cruisers

    Radd Cruisers

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    Like Crusier guy said, mid cross memeber under rear doors and another bad spot if the frame is full of dirt is the front frame rail as it turns upward towards the shock tower.

    The worst spot is next to the exhaust due to the head and moisture problem.

    The cork gasket is worthless on the side cover and is best replaced with factory gray engine silicone. The cork will get hard and brittle eventually and fail.

    Over the years I have found it a real pain working with rusty rigs and IMO I would buy a rust free FJ60 and transplant with a good old diesel.

    For the time it takes to make motor mounts and modify your cross memeber and wire this thing up you will be further ahead. We will have to get together with Andre and do a little write up on diesel installs. Drive shaft lengths will need redoing at under a 100 a pop and your done.

    Maybe its not that simple but a plain overview will help through this process.

    I sold a 3B and H55 plus split case and all wiring to cruiser head in the states, he had it installed and running in 1 week. Mind you it was not the prettiest istall I have ever seen, but it was functinal.

    There are many ways to tackle the installation and it will be based on what your personal preference is.

    So you are looking at 7K Canadian for the 1HZ,H55,splitcase
    Or the 3B with same combo for around 4KCanadian.

    We just sold a engine to cruiser head on Vancouver Island, it was strong and burned no oil.

    He pulled the engine apart, nearly no ridge on the cylinder and measured all the bearings and components. They were all still withing spec, so he ended up throwing in rings and freshened the head up.

    It had almost 400000KM on the clock!!!!!!!!!

    So Ferg, did I change your mind and being goo goo on diesels.

    Rob
    www.raddcruisers.ca
     
  9. fj803fe

    fj803fe

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    Thanks for the input. I still wrestle with the decide, the guy keeps calling me-who knows. I went to see an FJ60 that he said there were good doors on. They looked good, but were obviously starting to rust and one had seen bondo and body work on it upon further inspection. I hate working with rusty rigs too, seems you never make headway against the infection. Well, I'll go see it again, take some pics and send em around-if anyone wants it-I am sure he'll come down some more on $$$; he seems to be getting somewhat desperate from the # of messages I am getting.

    Anyway, many thanks for the input-I'll keep you posted if I begin my walk into D-Cruiserdom.

    Pierto
    11255
     
  10. fj803fe

    fj803fe

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    Well I did it. bought the HJ60; It is a nerve racking thing. Upon getting it home, of course I did a thorough inspection-I also replaced the badly rusting doors both front and rear hatch and tailgate-$200 bucks, can't beat that. There are some dents on the new doors, but NO RUST-and right now that is my #1 priority.

    I really wanted to do a compression test and hook up to an oil pressure unit as Peter Straub had recommended, however time was tight and all of the interior guages were dead on where they should be (though they are not necesarily reliable). Moreover the rig is getting good gas mileage and there is good power behind the H55F, I don't here any piston "slap", so I feel pretty good about it.

    Found that the frame indeed had good rusting occuring on it, and in the places that most said it would be-right behind the front spring hanger on the rear Drivers side (US) spring. A wire brush, an angle grinder, some 1/4 plates, a welder, & some 150wt oil to paint. I'm in for the long haul now.

    Mostly I think this ol BJ60 girl needs some LC finatic love.

    Thanks all for the input-I've got the diesel bug now!

    Pierto
     
  11. Pskhaat

    Pskhaat

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    [quote author=fj803fe link=board=21;threadid=9707;start=msg90566#msg90566 date=1074124188]
    Well I did it. bought the HJ60;
    [/quote]

    Dude, don't you mean the BJ60?

    Jealous I am, where are the friggin' pictures? :flipoff2:
     
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