Land Cruiser vs Ford Escort

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Poor thing never had a chance...
For the third time in the last few years my wife has been hit from behind while stopped at a stop sign. This time she was in rush hour traffic and a 17 yr old kid
plowed into her. I did not get a picture of the attacker but I did see it myself, hood pushed way up, front end all mangled up and not driveable.
OEM or maybe aftermarket rpl

I know it has been asked before but what is the oem bumper, hitch and side skirts worth?
last.JPG
 
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IdahoDoug

 
 
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Worth? For you to purchase new? For your insurance company to settle? To us on the board to purchase after you take off? To put on eBay? Huh??

DougM
 

Bear80

 
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ouch, you do know that is the rear crossmember of the frame, not a bumper. It's fame shop time, or else cut the crossmember off a junked one and have it welded on. Time for SLEE rear bumper.
 
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Nope, thought it was a bolt on deal? So If I want to upgrade to a slee I have to cut the rear cross member off, I am confused?
 
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That is the rear crossmember of the frame. You need to take that to a good frame shop and have them check it out. My 80 required a new frame after a relativelively minor hit on my 80 but totalled the car that hit me. Mine was checked on a Genisis frame machine and was unable to be repaired, even after the local dealership repaired the vehicle and handed it back to me.

Good luck.
 
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Capt. Jim said:
Mine was checked on a Genisis frame machine and was unable to be repaired, even after the local dealership repaired the vehicle and handed it back to me.

Good luck.
I am confused again, the dealership tried to starighten the frame\crossmeber but was not able to get it back to 100% perfect?
 

IdahoDoug

 
 
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Ooh, just looked at the picture. Disregard my bolt on comment - at first this thread said only something about an aftermarket bolt on hitch which I envisioned was a class III and there was no picture. You've got one of those damage multiplier hitches that is a perfect illustration why I'm against anyone using them to tow - they place strain on a crossmember that is simply not designed for it. Yours is clearly bent and indeed it is a welded on frame member that is bent. Big trouble.

DougM
 

ginericLC

Wagon Wheeler!
SILVER Star
 
 
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I bet you have a big dollar claim there even though it doesn't look like much.

New hitch!
New rear frame cross member and frame straightening, etc...!
Paint for the new rear frame crossmember!
Aluminum step plate!
Probably the side ends of the bumper, I can't see from the picture!
The Aluminum step plate may have damage that lower piece below the tailgate or at least scurffed the paint, more paint work!
Check your flares, mudflaps, and bumper attachment points both front and rear.
Check your spare tire, mount, and rear locating bars! Check everything under there. If your spare moved you could have a lot more damage than you initially noticed.
Check your electronic equipment Cruiser, AC, Radio. Seriously, I got rearended in my Tahoe and the CD player quit working immediately. If you have a factory head unit I can easily see where it would stop playing CDs after a hit like that. They have enough issues without being hit. I'm sure a hit could push it over the edge.

Personally if it were me I'd get the super high Toyota dealership parts estimate and take the money. Then I'd cut the rear frame crossmember and have a custom bumper built or see what Hanna, Slee, etc... offer for vehicles without the frame section. I boxed mine with 3x5 rectangular tubing. Stronger than the factory crossmember and it made a nice low profile bumper and hitch and swing out tire carrier.
 
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why do you call that a multiplier hitch? I used it to tow a light weight trailer a couple of times and had no complaints.
 
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OK you’ve seen the pics, lets play "Guess How Much The Repair Bill Is" First thing tomorrow I will make an appointment at my local Toyota dealership.
I will guess first at $2768 now that I have been educated about the frame damage.
 

TX_TLC

 
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zipastro said:
why do you call that a multiplier hitch? I used it to tow a light weight trailer a couple of times and had no complaints.
Multiplier hitch because when it gets hit..it multiplys the damage worse that it would have been without the hitch..
 
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zipastro said:
I am confused again, the dealership tried to starighten the frame\crossmeber but was not able to get it back to 100% perfect?
Fought with the local Toyo dealer during repairs. They always took the side of my Ins. Co. Took it to a highly reputable frame shop after dealer completed repairs. Frame shop said frame was way out of spec and was beyond repair. Other work was sub-standard and subsequently repaired by frame shop. Ins. company paid for all after bitter dispute between me and them.

I suspect you will also have significant frame damage with the amount of deformation that has occurred to the x-member. All the impact force must be absorbed elsewhere on the vehiclle to allow that much deformation to occur. I would also look for deformed/mis-aligned body mounts. Check your door /hood clearances. Also look for wrinkles/defortmation in the roof. Look your truck over yourself closely. You'll be surprised at what you might find.
 

NorCalDoug

problems solved daily...
 
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I was rear ended in my 94 LC by a 4Runner. It left a small dent in the aluminum step and a circular indentation on the right side of the exposed rear cross member.

I went around and got several estimates, as requested by her insurance company. The estimates for repair ran anywhere from $800 to $1600 for parts and labor. Her insurance company told me to submit any of the estimates I received -- my choice. I submitted the 2nd highest estimate to them -- it was from the most reputable shop in the area. They cut me a check for that amount plus aprox. $400 :confused: -- not that I complained about it.

The damage on my bumper was MUCH less than what you have there.

If it were me, I'd replace the damaged portion with a Kaymar or Slee rear bumper (with or without the tire carrier).
 

IdahoDoug

 
 
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To me, the hitch affixed to those 4 bolt holes - especially with the amount of drop you have - is simply unsound from an engineering perspective. It provides a long arm tailor made to apply incredible twisting force on essentially a part made of thick sheet metal. It is also mounted in the center of said sheet metal part to apply force in its weakest direction - shear rather than longitudinal. Completely unsound.

Many will immediately post that they've had no problems using this for everything from towing garden trailers to recovering vehicles. Fine. Great. But just because they/you haven't applied enough force to bent it yet doesn't mean that it's OK you've stressed it to perhaps 90% of its capability several times without realizing it. When you realize you've made a mistake with something like this is when something goes terribly wrong. The trailer you're towing sheers an axle and it's out of control and you bounce it over a curb a couple times trying to get things stopped. Everything looks fine until you realize that you've bent the frame on your beloved 80. Or you're helping a friend recover and you guys just can't seem to get him over that ledge. A couple broken straps later and now you're using doubled straps and hitting him hard. Out he comes and you're pretty fired up until you're detaching the straps and realize the rear frame member is bent on your truck. &&^##$%!

I'm not saying it's a useless attachment point, but I am of the opinion that things should be overbuilt for the worst case scenario because if you wheel/tow/drive enough that scenario is going to happen. For towing, best is a Class III hitch tying both rear longitudinal frames together. For recovery, best is a shackle stinger in that hitch, or using the factory recovery hooks.

It's turned into a bit of a wordy explanation, but IMHO, those 4 holes are the weakest thing you can use for working with the 80.

DougM
 

elum

 
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Hmmnn.. never really realized it.. why would Toyota use the Crossmember as the bumper? An even better arguement for the Mrs to approve an aftermarket bumper...
 
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