Laid new paint. Should I clear coat or something now? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 13, 2010
Threads
64
Messages
278
Location
McMinnville, OR
Website
www.rodeoz.com
I just got done painting, using Rustoleum spray cans. I feel like the paint is going to scratch and/or chip away really easy. Does it?

Do you guys that have used spray paint on the exterior/interior advise applying any sort of protectant layer on top of the actual paint? It's currently sitting like this:

IMG_3135.jpg

IMG_3137.jpg
IMG_3135.jpg
IMG_3137.jpg
 
I'd just leave it. Touch up is cheap. Looks good by the way.
 
Yeah looks mad as. Black that frame and you're done.
 
Which Rustoleum color is that? Flat camo? I've got 4 different cans of tan spray paint because I can't make up my mind. Could you post pictures once you're done assembling?
 
I would leave it. You only have 8 hours to clearcoat after you paint anyways. Plus if you scratched it you can just spray over it
 
1.) Fixing clear coat is harder (have to reclear the entire panel)
2.) Too late to clear unless you sand/scuff the whole thing.
3.) If you do get a scratch all you have to do is hit it again with your Rustoleum.
I'd leave it. Looks good.
 
Well, you cant have it all

Rattle cans do not have hardener in it that will protect from gas spills, etc. I used to spray bomb all the time, BUT........

Rattle can paint will scratch, peel and chip much easier than a real base/clear coat. Like I said, spill gas on rattle can the first time, big stain.

Frankly, if you are willing to clear coat it, like a real base/clear coat, the clear will have hardener that is added to it.

Yes, you can touch up rattle can easily. But after awhile, it will begin to look a little ratty touching up chips, runs, stains, etc.

Saving grace though: You can spray automotive clear over your rattle can, as long as the clear is compatible with the rattle can you used (laquer or enamel?). Even after 8 hrs you can spray clear over it, but your rattle can surface must be clean and free of all grease/silicone

Another issue: If you shoot clear over it, it will turn glossy. Ask for a flattener agent to add to the clear so it stays flat

Shoulda just shot auto grade one step with a flattener/hardener in it. Gallon of cheap automotive grade would've cost about the same as all the spray bombs you used to get where you are now
 
Looks nice! I'd like to check it out sometime
Flying for GOM rigs down there? Let me know when you're in town next, love 40's and helicopter talk! I was in a hurry to get it painted so I can get moving to check out a CO and a couple OR heli schools to decide where to finish up at. Otherwise --Melvinjo -- I totally wouldve done it right. Even talked to a paint supply store guy about it but dont have a spray gun, etc.

Melvinjo again --So you think I can still clear it though? I dont care if it's flat or whatever, more concerned about protection, as you mentioned. The paint is Rust-Oleum Camouflage flat Khaki (Lacquer? Not sure) THIS ONE. What do you think I should do?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom