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KURT - uhg, need to change the EGR

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Junk, Dec 2, 2003.

  1. Junk

    Junk

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    OK, Kurt, you were correct. I should have tested the entire EGR system. Ends up my P0401 code came back "Insufficient EGR Flow". It eventually cleared itself, but now the truck idles at 600 RPM (normal) when cold, then drops to 350-425 when hot. Feels like it will stall. All of this leads me to believe it is the actual EGR valve now.

    So, next question ... is this an easy swap? Should be right? Just plug and play?

    Oh, but Kurt, I still need to say :flipoff2:, just so I feel a little better. :whoops: Hope you don't mind. :D
     
  2. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Thanks for the :flipoff2: I feel "more better"
    Why replace when you can clean it?
    The BIG nut for the EGR is the hardest thing to "get off"
    Have you cleaned the temp sensor?
    Do you have the new big EGR modulator?
    WHat have you done to test and clean?
    And yes :slap: :-* :doh:
     
  3. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    Hey I just noticed my truck idling at 400 rpms occationally :(. Even at 400 ROCK steady though :D
     
  4. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Red fj60 modulator
    Blue new mod
    Green 94 mod

    Check with dan to see if the new mod is the same as your year as I kan't help as you don't have the year of your rig in yout post :slap:
    ADD it to your post :doh:
     
  5. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Kurt,
    Junk drives a '97 40th when it is running. :D

    Junk,
    Tips on removing the EGR valve (procedure is in the FSM):
    First, remove the EGR modulator hoses. Be sure you know where they go when you're ready to put them back on. No tools required to remove the modulator. Clean per the FSM.

    Be very careful with the wiring harness by the EGR valve. It gets hot and brittle and you don't want to be dealing with shorted wires.

    Use something like Sears Robogrips to remove the big nut on the back of the EGR valve. It's on the big EGR pipe. I think it is like 32mm so a normal spanner that would fit that nut would be way too big to get under the bonnet.

    Next, you will need to remove the nuts that hold the EGR valve to the intake studs. I had to bend a 12mm spanner in an L-shape (like a crow-foot wrench.) I don't remember where that helped for install or removal but it was the tool I needed. You can install the studs with something like needle nose vise grips. I believe removal was by using 2 nuts, back-to-back. There is a gasket between the EGR valve and the manifold. Be careful as it is easy to lose in the bowels and, trust me, you will never find it again. With the studs removed you can pull the EGR valve.

    I tried to clean mine twice but that didn't help or I didn't have the right stuff to clean it. Also, it is hard to identify what needs to be cleaned.... at least it was for me.

    -B-
     
  6. sledge916

    sledge916 Media Partner

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    I too am getting the P0401 code, I took the EGR valve and cleaned it with carb cleaner, did not do much, Where do the temp sensor and the big EGR modulator live? And how do I clean them? Darn I got to get this figured out, I cleared the engine light off and it came back on again with the same code. It drives me crazy to have the engine light on.

    Seth
     
  7. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    Sledge, The FSM has excellent diagnostic proceedures in it on this circuit. Before running willie nillie through the circuit cleaning things I'd start taking some of these readings of the temp sensor and such and try to identify the culprit or at least eliminate some of the choices. The last thing you need is to damage one of these components and install a second problem in an allready malfunctioning circuit.

    search on po401 there has been many posts some with proceedures on these parts.
     
  8. sledge916

    sledge916 Media Partner

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    I did search again, did the 365 day thing, found lots of info, found water??????? in the EGR modulator by the EGR valve, had a little carbon in there as well , cleaned the EGR temp sensor too, going to get the light turned off, hopefully this fixes it.

    Sethro
     
  9. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    The root of my problem was the old modulator would get carbon in it and fail.
    I would clean it and it would work for some time then the light would come on. I could see carbon in the modulator.
    With replacing the VSV and the modulator I am fine now... Knock on Junks fake wood dash :flipoff2:
    I wounder if the VSV all the way bad or not, as it would test bad then would work fine ???
     
  10. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Sethro,
    Several of us have struggled with the P0401. Mine was failing for about a year and was finally resolved after replacing the VSV for EGR. Others solved the problem by cleaning the EGR modulator. I don't remember anyone that cleared the problem long term by cleaning the EGR valve. I put on a new EGR valve and a new EGR modulator... still got the code a few weeks later. FYI, it is 2 trip logic so keep that in mind while testing. If you don't have the FSM then get one.

    As landtank mentioned, there are diagnostic procedures in the FSM. My problem was with the part that is very difficult to test without the Toyota tester because of the location. If you live near Drexx then he might run some tests for you. He recently purchased the "real deal" tester off of eBay.

    Keep us posted on what you find. We're always interested in data points with that pesky code. I think Gumby is still diagnosing.
    -B-
     
  11. Junk

    Junk

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    My modulator (yes, it's a 97) is only about 1 year old. It had blown up like a jiffy popcorn pop one time right before the last engine blew. Since it only happens when it's hot, I'm really leaning towards the actual valve. Still not sure though.

    B - by spanner, you mean open end wrench? :whoops:
     
  12. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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  13. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    If its is hot then the temp sensor could be carboned up. Pull the sensor off the EGR and clean or replace it. The EGR cools the motor with exhaust gas when it is open.
     
  14. sledge916

    sledge916 Media Partner

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    well got this light to stay off finally, turns out to be the EGR modulator, had to make sure the thing was getting enough vacum also, cleaned out the ports in the intake track, no more light!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Who hooo I did it.
    Sethro
     
  15. LINUS

    LINUS Waiting for the Great Pumpkin

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    I'm starting to think Junk can jinx other people's LC's just by starting a topic. Riding to work this morning and CE light came on - got home to read the code - you guessed it - PO401.

    Guess I know what I'll be doing tomorrow evening.

    :mad: :mad: :mad:
     
  16. Eduardo96FZJ80

    Eduardo96FZJ80

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    -B-
    I was looking for the post where Gumby, mentioned the required speed for 3 mins @ 45 Mph. (could not find it)

    I have noticed that after I replaced my modulator, the only time I have ever had the MIL come back on, is when, on the same streach of road on the way home, cruise set @ 45MPH (speed trap)
    I think he might be on to something here!
    Now I just whatch my speed and don't set the cruise @ 45 :doh:
     
  17. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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  18. Junk

    Junk

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    [quote author=LINUS link=board=2;threadid=8334;start=msg77203#msg77203 date=1071723702]
    I'm starting to think Junk can jinx other people's LC's just by starting a topic. [/quote]

    :doh: :flipoff2:

    That's old news. Me likes company to enjoy the same misery. :flipoff2:

    If dang Cbizkit wasn't lolly-gagging around, I could order me some parts. :flipoff2: :D
     
  19. Eduardo96FZJ80

    Eduardo96FZJ80

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    -B-
    That's the one, I haven't had another MIL since that post!!