Knuckle Rebuild - Real Time Tips (1 Viewer)

[Gretsch]

OK so something was brought up in this thread here. Seems there is a bit of confusion with regards to how the knuckle spindle seals work. This post illustrates the issue some:



So I am at the point of still being able to fix this but I have put the seal sandwich together like the FSM diagram here:

View attachment 2030561

Diagram seems to show the spindle seal, then spindle, then dust cover, then another seal, then the hub dust seal. But the order in the actual text steps seems to show the seal between the dust cover and the hub dust seal as being actually placed between the spindle and dust cover. @g-man brings up a solid point. I am at the point of still being able to fix this but if I go much further it will be somewhat of a PITA to fix. The @OTRAMM video shows the seal being put on between the dust cover and the hub dust seal like the diagram does and how I have it. But the actual wording in the FSM seems to say different. The diagram and the wording don't seem to match up if you assume that the wording is meant to have the bits put on in the order written. Anyone know for sure which way is correct? Cruiser Outfitters have the seal listed on their site as going between the spindle and dust cover (backing plate). Want to get this correct before I go much further with this. Any help appreciated.

OK I am still worried I have these seals in wrong. Does anyone happen to know if the seals go in like:

Spindle gasket---->Spindle---->Gasket---->dust shield---->hub seal

Or

Spindle Gasket----->Spindle----->dust shield----->gasket----->hub seal.

Looking at my cleaned spindle there is evidence that things were done as the first option as there seems to be some gasket material on the spindle body. Can't be sure though. If anyone can confirm which way this goes, either by the diagram or by the steps listed in the FSM, I would certainly appreciate confirmation one way or another. At the point of still being able to fix this. Much further and it would be a real PITA to take care of. Thanks in advance.

 

[g-man]

@cruiseroutfit, @orange45, @OSS...please look at this question^^^. See post #15 in this thread:

Knuckle Rebuild Kit

Hey there all, im going to do my front axle and have come across a ton of info while searching. Can anyone recommend their favorite rebuild kit along with any pros and cons? thanks in advance.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[OSS]

This drawing explains it (I think)

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Is the brake dust shield not in the picture? I think that might be the confusion? Dunno.

 

[OSS]

usually one side is done at a time. Maybe take a look at the other side to see how it goes together

 

[fjc-man]

The inset diagram at the bottom of the drawing shows an exploded view of a 60 on the left and a 40 on the right. So to make it less confusing that’s what I see.

 

[g-man]

still not clear...no image of the dust cover aka brake backing plate. It does show the notch drain or what ever on the bottom of the spindle and I think the loop in the gasket goes here for a reason.

 

[Gretsch]

This was the drawing from the FSM I have:

So still not clear which way this goes. I am too old to read the small print on the very top of the drawing, but it seems to say FJ62. I have an FJ60, so maybe the orientation changed at some point between model years? That drawing clearly shows a gasket between the dust shield and the hub seal. The OTRAMM video shows him orienting the seals as shown in the above drawing (with gasket between the dust shield and the hub seal). Its a difference of the gasket behind the dust shield or in front of it. Above shows in front, OTRAMM video shows in front, FSM text directions seem to indicate behind, @cruiseroutfit's website seems to indicate the gasket goes behind, and the mere shape of the gasket matches the shape of the spindle mount as to suggest it goes behind the dust shield. So there seems to be support for both ways.

I did mine one side at a time @OSS. Unfortunately the seal on mine was so worn out as to be basically non-existent. I can see the faint outline of what may look to be gasket material on both the dust shield and the spindle mounting areas, which would indicate yet a third way to do this by having a gasket on both sides of the dust shield. Maybe this does not matter at all here and both ways can be done. I guess maybe anyone who has done this could simply state which way they used. I have already torqued down one side using the seal on the front of the backing plate. I would prefer to not have to do this again but if someone has success one way or another it would help me figure out which way to go. Trying to prevent leaks and other than the gasket between the knuckle housing and the spindle, I am not sure the need for all these different gaskets. I don't see where anything leaking would come from in this area. Spindle looks sealed, hub has two seals on it so not sure what all these do really. Thanks for the replies all.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

I don't remember how I did 62 but I struggled with it a bit. In my opinion anything outboard of the spindle is a dust seal and not all that important. I wouldn't lose sleep over it. I think I put the paper gasket outboard of the brake dust shield.

 

[OSS]

I don't remember the exact order I did on my 60, but you can always fall back on a general rule for gaskets that will serve you well when specific instructions aren't available.

Everything inside the hub will have grease in it. The lubticatiing part of the grease is actually an oil that will eventually migrate everywhere it can. The thick goopy part of the grease is the carrier to hold the lubricating oil.

Everything inside the knuckle is filled with grease too. Eventually the oil in the grease will migrate everywhere it can if there's not an oil seal or gasket to stop it

The parts that make up the knuckle assembly need to have gaskets between them to hold in the grease. Any direct metal to metal contact between two flanges or parts will leak oil (from the grease) eventually.
So take a look at the questionable parts that will be bolted together. If they need to retain grease (or oil) there needs to be a gasket or oil seal between them

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

@CenTXFJ60 can you post a photo of your wits end poster? @NLXTACY.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

I have one - but it's not specific. The brake dust shield is floating in space.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The parts that make up the knuckle assembly need to have gaskets between them to hold in the grease. Any direct metal to metal contact between two flanges or parts will leak oil (from the grease) eventually.
So take a look at the questionable parts that will be bolted together. If they need to retain grease (or oil) there needs to be a gasket or oil seal between them

I would just go w/ this and call it done. Or call Georg.

 

[Gretsch]

The parts that make up the knuckle assembly need to have gaskets between them to hold in the grease. Any direct metal to metal contact between two flanges or parts will leak oil (from the grease) eventually.
So take a look at the questionable parts that will be bolted together. If they need to retain grease (or oil) there needs to be a gasket or oil seal between them

OK thanks here. Seems like there should be a seal then on both sides of the dust shield. I don't think there is an extra seal in my kit to do this. The way I have things there is a seal between the knuckle and the spindle to keep grease in the knuckle, and there is a seal between the hub seal and the dust shield to keep grease in the hub. For lack of a clear direction, and for time and ease, I might just roll with what I have on the side I have finished (knuckle-->seal-->spindle-->dust shield-->seal-->hub seal). If it becomes an issue down the road, I can address it then. I think @g-man is prolly right the seal ultimately goes behind the dust shield just based on its shape. I know I keep referencing the OTRAMM video which shows him doing the seals as I have them(and as @Prairie Swamp recalls doing them), but it at least proves the seals have been set up the way I have them by a reputable shop so it must work on some level(of course its possible he realized he messed up after filming stopped and he went back and corrected things, but who knows). If I had more time I would prolly order a second seal for the dust shield just to be extra safe. But I should be OK with what I got. I know I am over-analyzing this a bit but just thought it would be nice to get a clear idea of which way is correct. Don't want to start puking grease everywhere as soon as I get things put back together. I have never seen this brought up before in the threads on knuckle rebuilds I have seen and just thought it was odd. Thanks for the help all.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

I’ve been out of tow Felicity. Back hone now so let me know if you still need a picture

 

[Gretsch]

I’ve been out of tow Felicity. Back hone now so let me know if you still need a picture

I would appreciate seeing whatever you have with regards to the hub spindle setup if its handy.

 

[Gretsch]

Driver side knuckle/spindle setup done:

Got the races pounded out and new races pounded in my hubs as well. Made a 'tool' of sorts to help hold the hubs while I pounded on the races with a brass punch:

Allowed me to keep the locking hub studs in place and keep them safe from damage while providing a flat base for the hub to rest on. The weight of the hub was resting on the hub face and not the locking hub studs. Also provided a way to keep the hub from moving around while hammering on it. Worked nice and much easier and faster than removing the studs. Just a couple minutes on my drill press and it was done.

 

[Gretsch]

Well for better or for worse, she is back on her wheels.

I have new respect for all the folks on this forum that do this stuff every day. You guys are truly amazing people. This was one of the more physical jobs on a vehicle I have ever undertaken (the lift mostly). ITs not hard but I find at my age its getting more and more difficult to man handle some of this stuff. Trying to do a lift and knuckles at the same time was prolly asking for trouble but she is mostly ready. Tires going on today. Went to bleed the brakes and had an issue with the passenger side bleeder valve being frozen to the caliper. Won't budge. Tried everything I have to get it lose but needs additional. Basically destroyed it in the process. Good news is the brakes seem to work fine. I did not have one of the fittings back tight and was trying to fill the system and pumping brakes while unbeknownst to me spraying brake fluid everywhere. I guess I got most of the air out doing that (and coating my garage floor with brake fluid). If I can't free it I may just spend for new calipers. I don't have torch but tried hitting it with a heat gun. As you might expect it did nothing. The little brake tube running off the caliper appears pretty frozen as well so not sure how I am gonna get all this worked out before the trip. If anyone has slick ideas on getting this off I am open to hearing them. My son plays competitive baseball so we have to travel down to Houston today for a tournament he is in so basically tires and park it until Sunday.

Need to take a moment to thank my lovely wife for putting up with this whole thing for a month. As you can see from the photos I have pretty well destroyed our driveway and garage. But she helped me this morning getting the wheels back on as I was completely drained by that point. She gets me calm when the cruiser gets the best of me. She is more than I deserve for sure and she has bent over backwards to make sure this cruiser thing works out for me. I am not worthy.

Thanks to @ceylonfj40nut for offline text help. Been beating him up pretty good with direct tips through text. Thanks sir for all the guidance. More pics to come....

 

[g-man]

Monkey piss....aka liquid wrench, kroil, pb blaster let it soak in. Spray it once or 2 times a day for a couple days. Use a 6 point boxed end wrench or socket or line wrench to get more surface area of the nut while trying to break it loose. This will help you to keep from rounding the nut. Another wrench locked into the other end of the line wrench will give you plenty of leverage. Not sure if heat is a good idea here. Brake fluid is flammable and there are seals inside the caliper that probably won't like the heat.

 

[micruz60]

Yeah! Got it together.

Do not use the heat as mentioned on brake lines.
Might help to go a smidge tighter before trying to loosen the connection, after the PB blaster /whatever.