Knuckle Rebuild - Real Time Tips (1 Viewer)

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Yes thanks for your Email Kurt. I looked at these so quickly I did not see the markings on the boxes for the rotors stating the design changes for the rotor. Had I it would have saved a lot of time and back and forth on the thread.

I also talked to Bryce there at CO and he said there is no reason to remove the studs to get the rotor separated. The new rotor simply fits over the wheel studs in the hub. Obviously need to bang the rotor off the hub somehow. I thought I recalled seeing something in the FSM abut removing them but not sure if that was for getting the rotor off or simply to illustrate how to get the wheel studs out. I need to spend more time with these. I was trying to get ready for this Colorado trip with the family and didn't get to look at this setup long enough. I was afraid I was missing something so was trying to figure that out so I could get parts ordered if needed for when I get back. When I get back later this week I'll look into this further. Again thanks all for the replies.

Bryce must have been thinking of the later model Toyota design, the 6x/7x definitely do use the studs. Simply press them out and reverse the setup on your old hub.
 
OK thanks for confirming this Kurt. I am travelling and trying to get this figured out over the phone is challenging while driving between cities like I've been. Bryce and I were focused on the rotor design change and I prolly didn't make myself clear about if the studs needed to come out or not. Looking through this some more I finally understand it now. Only took 3 pages. :bang:

I found this video:



Shows an '85 pickup rotor replacement and not an FJ60, but I believe these to be a similar setup.

Sorry for being so dense here and dragging this out. The rotor setup was just not making sense to me. I couldn't understand the need to have the studs be part of how the rotor was held on. Had in my head the hub went on the backside of the rotor instead of the rotor on the backside of the hub. Without having it in front of me at the moment I couldn't remember the layout. I got it now though. Thanks all for your help and again sorry for being so slow.
 
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I drove my new OEM studs in using stacked washer method and an impact...
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Also, those OEM studs list for ~$13 each, at least that's what a local dealer quoted me then took 50% off.
 
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Nooooooooooo , to (edit) Brice's info, you DO have to remove the studs to separate the rotor from the hub. The studs have splines that grab the hub, and heads on the backs of them that butt up to the rotor. Press them out or beat them out. I used a 20 ton press to push them out.
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This is what I recall now seeing in the FSM from before leaving on this trip. I don't have access to my FSMs currently now but would have helped me zero in on the deal with this. Thanks here.
 
I may invest in a benchtop press to get this done quickly. I have needed to use a press more than once in the last several years so would prolly be a good investment. Habor Frieght has a 6 ton benchtop press which would work for me in terms of storage. Would this be adequate for pressing the studs in and out?
 
Anyone use an air hammer to drive these studs in and out?
Pressing them in is the best approach. Take @ceylonfj40nut (hopefully that’s the right name) that @CenTXFJ60 jim directed you to. You can do it w/ the washers and a junk lug nut and impact (I did) but it’s definitely NOT recommended.
 
OK thanks all. Will 6 tons be enough for pressing wheel studs in? Seems plenty for this if using merely a hammer is sufficient to drive them out. But maybe I am wrong there. And if using a press to get this done(minimizing damage), will I be able to reuse the original studs? Or should I replace them still to ensure they seat properly in the hub/rotor? Any guidance would be appreciated.
 
If you hammer them out, you risk damage to the first thread, which makes rethreading the nut impossible. Pressing them with a brass or aluminum spacer is better. But it can work if you are careful and we've all done it. I will say that pressing them in is desirable to pulling them though with another wheel nut, which can stretch the stud and weaken it. I'm guessing here, but 6 tons will be enough.
 
OK I ordered some studs from Bryce at CO. Got the aftermarket ones they sell. Called my local Toyota dealer for OEM and they had to have over $10 per stud. I backed out of that deal and went with aftermarket. I know folks say get OEM but $120 just to switch out the brake rotor is steep. I'll see how these studs come out and if I can avoid damaging them while doing so. Maybe I can reuse my factory ones. I don't know. Wish me luck.
 
I have no leak or noise. I was just thinking with no service history on the knuckle I may as well do a new set of seals and repack the birfields.

The knuckles look good right now with no sludgy weep
 
Can anyone confirm the size and thread of the wheel studs is
12 mm x 1.5? I think this is correct based on searches but wanted to confirm with the braintrust. Thanks in advance.
 
OK so good news here (for me anyways). @ceylonfj40nut has graciously agreed to help me get these new studs pressed in and the rotors put on. He has a press so going to get him the parts and should have everything done by early next week. So cool!!!! Thanks, thanks thanks. Had no idea how I was gonna get this all knocked out by SAS. But thanks to him it looks like I just might pull this off. You guys all really are the best. Thanks all for the help with this.
 
OK I ordered some studs from Bryce at CO. Got the aftermarket ones they sell. Called my local Toyota dealer for OEM and they had to have over $10 per stud. I backed out of that deal and went with aftermarket. I know folks say get OEM but $120 just to switch out the brake rotor is steep. I'll see how these studs come out and if I can avoid damaging them while doing so. Maybe I can reuse my factory ones. I don't know. Wish me luck.

Toyota of Plano sold me new OEM studs for $7ea. 2 weeks ago... not cheap, but better than $120.
 
I've mentioned this is in a couple other threads, but putting the round side of ball peen hammer head against the head of a stud and hitting the first hammer with a second hammer is a super effective way of knocking studs out without damage to the stud or yourself. (Way better than destroying a drift, the stud or your hands) Put a nut on the stud for double thread protection and definitely wear eye protection.
 
I've mentioned this is in a couple other threads, but putting the round side of ball peen hammer head against the head of a stud and hitting the first hammer with a second hammer is a super effective way of knocking studs out without damage to the stud or yourself. (Way better than destroying a drift, the stud or your hands) Put a nut on the stud for double thread protection and definitely wear eye protection.

Nice idea. Thanks. I ended up getting the studs from CO today. So trying to get the hub torn down to get it painted and cleaned by Friday to get it to @ceylonfj40nut to press these new studs back in. I just went to pounding the old studs out not trying to save them. I understand now how its easy to screw them up by pounding on them to get them out and so glad I got new studs. I tried to use a brass drift to pound them out with a nut and the studs wouldn't budge. So just went after them with a hammer. Came right out, but not after slamming my pinky finger right into the side of the hub. Frick that hurt. But have both hubs cleaned and prepped for paint. Might make this trip yet.

The rotors came right off after getting the studs out, just like everyone said they would. I didn't even have to pound on the rotors to get them separated. Easy peasy. Thanks all for the suggestions.
 
Glad you got all that figured out. Funny how many of us have to go over and over things before it all clicks. Good your doing it the right way too. Its nice that you have all sorts of awesome mud folks near you!
 

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