knuckle rebuild - cant get bolt off (1 Viewer)

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hward1

87 fj60 / 95 fjz80
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CA for little while
hey got the kit today for the knuckle rebuild and was trying to take apart everything but i got stuck and cant get this bolt off - it just spins inside -- pic --

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/hward1/DSC03292.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/hward1/DSC03293.jpg


DSC03292.jpg


how do i take it off without it spinning - thanks Heath
 
Last edited:
If you are talking about the one centered on the end of the shaft, it doesn't connect to anything (or really belong in there). The shaft has a threaded hole in the end to give purchase with a bolt to pull the shaft out on installation to get a snap ring on. Someone left it in there the last time the axle was worked on. Try locking the hub on the other side of the axle and then the axle shaft should be held stationary (assuming you have that tire on the ground). You need to remove a snap ring seated back inside the lock-out housing, then you will be able to remove it.
 
look close there is a washer in front of the bolt i think holding the casing on so i cant pull it off -- the casing slides a little away from the base
 
look close there is a washer in front of the bolt i think holding the casing on so i cant pull it off -- the casing slides a little away from the base

Looks to me like the last person in there did not have a snap ring and tried to jury rig it with a bolt and a washer.

To get it off, lock the hub on the other side, put the truck in 4 wheel drive-this will cause the diff to bind up and allow you to spin out the bolt. If you have an impact wrench, that would do it too.
 
thats just my luck -- someone rigging something up - and i am not sure they are even cones to knock out can anyone tell
 
Wait a minute, is that even a 60 series lock-out? It may be the photo, but it looks like it narrows significantly...
 
Some people spend more time screwing things up than just fixing something right, good grief. Never seen this problem before. Mike
 
I don't have my truck with me to compare, so I may be wrong... but it looks too long and too tapered for a 60 :hmm: Do you have a pic of the portion you've already taken off?

Looks like there is no provision for the cone washers...
 
Wait a minute, is that even a 60 series lock-out? It may be the photo, but it looks like it narrows significantly...

Kind of looks weird to me - the hub locking mechanism housing thingie. My stock one - 85 60 - seems to be fairly consistent in width to the end. The finish looks different than my Aisan hubs.

Hard to tell if there are cone washers too. Mine are pretty obvious.
 
hey went and looked here is a pic its a warn i guess -- is that bad what should i do know -- can i still use the knuckle rebuild kit for this or find the correct ones

DSC03294.jpg
 
Lots of people swapped in Warns thinking that they were better.

Try and get a set of the Aisins and run the proper snap ring.
 
Used Lockout hubs are fine. Easily re-buildable - just some grease. And FWIW, there's a guy on ebay who sells NEW aftermarket ones that I believe are Aisin (OEM).

As earlier poster said, just lock the opposite wheel and remove the shown bolt/washer/hub.
 
the nwarn hubs should work fine for you heath. the parts for them might even be easier to find in your neck of the woods.....
the knuckle kit is the same so no worries there. i would try an impact gun on the bolt, should come out. looks like it's a 13mm head.
fwiw, some of the warn hubs did use a bolt and washer like that. all of the ifs aisin hubs used them as well.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids
 
So, if Bobby Long told you to do just that, eliminating the snap ring, would you? Because that is what he has been doing for years without issue.

It makes a birfield change much quicker in the dirt.
 
thanks guys for the replies - bolt is off and i am on my way for other interesting things to happen -- also guys purchased transfer case and a knuckle rebuild kits from georg -- great guy to deal with highly, highly recommend if someone is looking for kits
 

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