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im not familiar with that bracket but it doesn’t seem correct to me. It will set the seal out past the seal surface on the hub.This has been great guys, thanks for all the comments, and thanks for the ideas on the brake lines, very helpful.
Here is the pic of it all done. Basically the same way, I just had to switch steering knuckles and now the stock brackets are in front and out of the way. Everything else lined up great and should work well. Now for the other side. I learn something new everyday!
Thanks again!
View attachment 2108792
Thank you, Gentlemen, for the answers...
Now @Godwin , if you have time to post a picture with the 16" 70-series wheels, I'll know what to look for.
Cheers!
im not familiar with that bracket but it doesn’t seem correct to me. It will set the seal out past the seal surface on the hub.
Thank you, Gentlemen, for the answers...
Now @Godwin , if you have time to post a picture with the 16" 70-series wheels, I'll know what to look for.
Cheers!
Correct. Water seal needs to be flipped so it protrudes inboard. The flange must be trimmed to do so. FROR's instructions are to eliminate the water seal. If you run it the way you've assembled it, it will cause too much friction and the wheel bearing nuts will be too loose.
It will wear off in short order running so far up on the IFS hub. I suppose that if you let it and retorque the wheel bearing nuts in 100 miles it will be 'good enough' but don't be surprised when dirt and water get inside. Kinda depends on the environment you operate in whether it's important to you.
Read the Tundra Mod thread. It has answers to every question you've asked and for several you didn't but should. It included part numbers and the new master cylinder you need to change to at the same time. Brakes are important. Don't just guess.