Knuckle parts order help with disc brake conversion plate

Godwin

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@Godwin @gt7058a

With either the 16" 70-series or 17" FJ wheels, did you have to use a spacer to clear ?

Thanks.
With the 16" 70 series wheels using calipers with a casting number of S13WE no spacers are needed.

I have a set of aftermarket 16" wheels (purchased from Summit and don't remember the part #) that I tried to mount a few days ago. With these there was wheel-caliper interference; I guess it depends on how that backface of the wheel is shaped.

70 series with 255/85/16 Yokohama Geolanders looks :smokin: Will be a few more days before I can test drive.
 

Spike Strip

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Thank you, Gentlemen, for the answers...

Now @Godwin , if you have time to post a picture with the 16" 70-series wheels, I'll know what to look for.

Cheers! :beer:
 
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This has been great guys, thanks for all the comments, and thanks for the ideas on the brake lines, very helpful.

Here is the pic of it all done. Basically the same way, I just had to switch steering knuckles and now the stock brackets are in front and out of the way. Everything else lined up great and should work well. Now for the other side. I learn something new everyday!

Thanks again!
View attachment 2108792
im not familiar with that bracket but it doesn’t seem correct to me. It will set the seal out past the seal surface on the hub.
 
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Godwin

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Thank you, Gentlemen, for the answers...

Now @Godwin , if you have time to post a picture with the 16" 70-series wheels, I'll know what to look for.

Cheers! :beer:
I'll try to get something posted tomorrow. The 70 series look like stock 60 series. Mine were powdercoated a dark color otherwise would be chrome.
 

60Works

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im not familiar with that bracket but it doesn’t seem correct to me. It will set the seal out past the seal surface on the hub.
Correct. Water seal needs to be flipped so it protrudes inboard. The flange must be trimmed to do so. FROR's instructions are to eliminate the water seal. If you run it the way you've assembled it, it will cause too much friction and the wheel bearing nuts will be too loose.

It will wear off in short order running so far up on the IFS hub. I suppose that if you let it and retorque the wheel bearing nuts in 100 miles it will be 'good enough' but don't be surprised when dirt and water get inside. Kinda depends on the environment you operate in whether it's important to you.

Read the Tundra Mod thread. It has answers to every question you've asked and for several you didn't but should. It included part numbers and the new master cylinder you need to change to at the same time. Brakes are important. Don't just guess.
 

Godwin

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Correct. Water seal needs to be flipped so it protrudes inboard. The flange must be trimmed to do so. FROR's instructions are to eliminate the water seal. If you run it the way you've assembled it, it will cause too much friction and the wheel bearing nuts will be too loose.

It will wear off in short order running so far up on the IFS hub. I suppose that if you let it and retorque the wheel bearing nuts in 100 miles it will be 'good enough' but don't be surprised when dirt and water get inside. Kinda depends on the environment you operate in whether it's important to you.

Read the Tundra Mod thread. It has answers to every question you've asked and for several you didn't but should. It included part numbers and the new master cylinder you need to change to at the same time. Brakes are important. Don't just guess.
I didn't notice the orientation of the seal in your original thread and didn't flip it when I installed. I'll be checking the condition of the rubber seal after some driving.
 
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