Knuckle centering...who has actually done it?

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Reproduction tool
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Toyota tool
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Joined
Mar 30, 2011
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Location
Huntsville AL or Yuma AZ
Well bottom line...both tools yield the same results. I think the slight variances actually came from slightly different preload settings.

I did make a small observation though which is a bit unclear, the manual does not specify whether the spindle center procedure where the tool is placed on the knuckle for the second scribe mark should be done with the turn lever installed. I have left it in place so the measurement is true to how it was oriented on the knuckle ball. The fsm drawing however, doesn't appear to show it in place. If it's removed, it will change the distance of the two marks but I believe it will actually bring them closer together decreasing distance D.
 
Joined
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melbourne, Oz
Well bottom line...both tools yield the same results. I think the slight variances actually came from slightly different preload settings.

I did make a small observation though which is a bit unclear, the manual does not specify whether the spindle center procedure where the tool is placed on the knuckle for the second scribe mark should be done with the turn lever installed. I have left it in place so the measurement is true to how it was oriented on the knuckle ball. The fsm drawing however, doesn't appear to show it in place. If it's removed, it will change the distance of the two marks but I believe it will actually bring them closer together decreasing distance D.
Well that is baffling. You are certainly doing a nice and thorough job.
Some folks have mentioned that the lower shim is for centering, top for preload. So, perhaps an assumption is that your knuckles are nicely centered and the negative 'e' value to go on top gives the preload. Odd though.

Bit of a pain to hunt for different diff housing and/or knuckles, they look good.

Would have thought someone else would have experienced the same.
Won't really know until you drive it for awhile to see how it feels and observe wear.
 

pbgbottle

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I did mine once also knuckle swap using Toyota tool it was a pain in the butt to get consistent readings had negative readings also looking at all the components and such I realized the tool was a slopping fit in the brass spindle bushing which was allowing the scribe mark to move wasn’t Centered in the bushing I also got it sorted in the end with no leaks. I’d have to see if I kept my numbers. Took me all day to get what I thought was correct I also grabbed nice new shims from Toyota.
 
Joined
Mar 10, 2019
Messages
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melbourne, Oz
I did mine once also knuckle swap using Toyota tool it was a pain in the butt to get consistent readings had negative readings also looking at all the components and such I realized the tool was a slopping fit in the brass spindle bushing which was allowing the scribe mark to move wasn’t Centered in the bushing I also got it sorted in the end with no leaks. I’d have to see if I kept my numbers. Took me all day to get what I thought was correct I also grabbed nice new shims from Toyota.
It occurred to me that a little handle some how attached to or a behind the scribe point would compliment the design of the tool.
I was thinking this as I had to use my finger nail behind the scribe to get enough pressure to scribe the second marking line.
A few slippery things like grease and gear marking paint can make it tricky to get a good grip on the scribe.
 

Ackcruisers

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@roma042987 thanks for posting. I’m about ready to tackle my knuckles and will be purchasing either the OEM tool or the knock off. If you want to sell either of yours after using it, let me know.
 

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