Knuckle Bearing Races- does something look off here? (1 Viewer)

[bfoldy]

Is this normal? I’m doing an axle rebuild and wondering if these knuckle bearing races should be protruding above the surface of the ball like this? It appears to be all the way seated in with no room to drive it down any further. I assume it should be flush to the surface, but this is my first time for Toyota axles.

Here’s a comparison of the new one (Nachi H-E30303J) compared to the Koyo race I took out. Hopefully this pic will show that the new Nachi race is taller than the Koyo race.

Ordered as part of the overhaul kit from Marlin Crawlers.

 

[bfoldy]

As measured with calipers.

 

[bfoldy]

Guess I’m overthinking this. When you lay the bearings in to the races, the bearings+races are virtually the same overall height Nachi vs. Koyo units. Since the caps ride on top of the actual bearings, I suppose as long as they overall height is the same, then all is good?

 

[bfoldy]

Side by side comparison with bearings in place in the races.

 

[The Machinist]

As long as the overall height is the same, it shouldn't be a problem. I've never used their bearings, but if the quality is anything like their cutting tools for machining I wouldn't hesitate to use them. (they are one of my preferred brands for specialized drills)

Here's a neat cutaway drawing of the knuckle assembly that shows the clearance around the races. (stolen from this post: Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ)

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I would suggest ONLY using the OEM Parts makers Private Lable Box / KOYO Brand

anything else and u see the results and confusion it can cause

i would suggest keeping the MARLIN Crawler Double LiP seals u hopefully Bought also ?

on the other hand i Swear By thee marlin Crawler Inner Axle Double Lip Seals , after some personal R&D , i concluded they are a

CLONE of a YAMAHA outboard Boat MOTOR's Double LIP Prop Shaft Seal on The Lower UNIT ,

The Prop Shaft diamiter on My 1988 175HP 2 Stroke is Very close to that of a 1983 FJ43L-KC Front inner axle shaft at least , Real Close


and returning the rest for a credit

then contact CruiserOutfitters .com / @cruiseroutfit 's place , he's a KOYO brand Dealer and will have what u Need and set u straight on the Correct Parts Path From JAPAN ..........

Just a very Honest Opinion based on my past experiences not using OEM Maker brand Parts on a Land Cruiser in My Shop

​

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

They’re correct or at least that’s exactly how mine (mine were KOYO from a terrain tamer kit) sat in my knuckles when I rebuilt them.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

As long as the overall height is the same, it shouldn't be a problem. I've never used their bearings, but if the quality is anything like their cutting tools for machining I wouldn't hesitate to use them. (they are one of my preferred brands for specialized drills)

Here's a neat cutaway drawing of the knuckle assembly that shows the clearance around the races. (stolen from this post: Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ)

View attachment 1971355

What a rad picture! Saved. Thanks for adding!

 

[blainehale]

Just rebuilt mine a couple weeks ago and my races looked the same as your photo. Every thing went back together just fine and bearing pre-load was set according to the FSM.

 

[bfoldy]

Appreciate the responses and reassurances, everyone. First time doing it, so going slow and cautious.

@The Machinist That is a very cool photo and I've saved it to my files as well.
@RAGINGMATT I hear ya....I have been going w/ OEM parts whenever they are available. In this case, I just wasn't aware Koyo bearings were the OEM option. I will say though, the quality of the Nachi bearings looks and feels excellent. They actually have bigger (beefier) roller pins than the Koyos although there's a few less of them.

 

[bfoldy]

Here’s another shot just for comparison

 

[Spike Strip]

Those (Nachi) are not the right bearings. They will work, but the Koyo is a proprietary bearing and is correct for the high lateral loads in this application and will be mo' better. The Koyo is designed for high-thrust, low speed, that's why it has more, but smaller rollers to better distribute the load.

Return and get the Koyo.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

We (Cruiser Outfitters) stock the loose Koyo knuckle bearings if you want to change them up. Give us a ring at the shop! 801-563-1277

 

[bfoldy]

Thanks.

In hindsight I would have just ordered the Koyo bearings considering they are OEM but I did call the folks at Marlin to ask about the difference in the bearings and they told me the angle difference in the Nachi bearings are going to withstand the side impacts a little better than Koyo which may be ideal for off-roading. The inner and outer bearings for the hubs that came with the kit were Koyo so I’m guessing they piece the kits per their preference. In all honesty, I don’t really plan on doing any significant off-roading or a ton of miles so I’m sure either will last me another 30 years as long as I set the preload correctly.

I actually wrapped up the rebuild last week and took in for alignment on Saturday. Wow!!!! What a difference in the driving feel. I’m sure it was the original bearings, seals, etc over the course of 166k miles and everything feels nice and tight now. It was a dirty, challenging job the first time around but well worth the work in the end.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The standard type Nachi bearings are cheaper than the special hi-thrust Koyo bearing. That's why they are sold as replacements.

 

[chbrow10]

@bfoldy , Thanks for posting this. I'm going through the same thing right now and this thread helped me.

 

[bfoldy]

You bet @chbrow10 So much to learn and this forum is always such a big help.