Killed two Interstate Batteries in one week (2 Viewers)

[rrv333]

Background:

Had a redtop Optima battery in my 62 for seven years. The redtop always cranked and never failed me during the seven years. When the redtop finally died, I thought Ok, been seven years, I can't really complain.

Bought a new redtop in September 2016. Last week the redtop failed me. I'm aware of the redtop quality issues here of late but my battery tray is specific to Optima's that's why I went back with the redtop. When the redtop failed I went with an Interstate with the same dimensions of the redtop.

Put the new Interstate in the 62 and she cranked right up. Put her in the garage and didn't think anything else about it. Next morning I went out to start the 62 and nothing, nada, zero from the new Interstate. I had to work the next two days from 0900-2100 so I wasn't able to address the dead Interstate issue.

When I was able to replace the Interstate from NTB, I put the Interstate in the 62 and she cranked right up with no issues. Next morning same thing, dead battery.

So my question is where to begin looking for the electrical draw? I looked in the search feature with no luck. I don't know if I was using the correct verbiage when using the search feature.

I don't run any additional lighting, amps, or anything out of the norm.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Alternator? That would be my next search. Maybe fusible link is faulty? Tho @Output Shaft always has great diagnostic skills among many others far more seasoned than little ol' me.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

And now that I see 62, I'd def say check fusible link. It's different than the 60 one.

 

[rrv333]

Replaced the alternator last year. I'll check with the fusible links.

 

[NMfjCruiser]

I don't think alternator would drain it. I'd look somewhere else for a draw when everything is shut off. Dome light? Short circuit/
?

 

[3_puppies]

when hooking up the fresh battery, is there a spark when making the last connection? usually a sign of a draw.
to check draw, have fresh battery in place, install 1 battery cable, hook volt/ohm meter between other post and cable. begin pulling individual fuses until draw stops. that would be the circuit with the issue.
don't forget about door lights being on.
trying to think how a fusible link would cause this and can't come up with anything.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

when hooking up the fresh battery, is there a spark when making the last connection? usually a sign of a draw.
to check draw, have fresh battery in place, install 1 battery cable, hook volt/ohm meter between other post and cable. begin pulling individual fuses until draw stops. that would be the circuit with the issue.
don't forget about door lights being on.
trying to think how a fusible link would cause this and can't come up with anything.

Seriously? When attaching the negative I should not get a bit of a spark when the terminal connects to the post? Someone needs to show me proof of that. I always expect a bit of spark as I've always gotten one.

 

[Freewheel]

You'll probably always get a spark, 'cause the clock is always drawing power. If there's nothing electrically live in the truck, there should be no spark.

 

[rrv333]

Thank you, puppies!

 

[SteveH]

Sparking is a good 'field indicator' - but not very scientific.

Attach an ammeter inline (in series) with the battery and a terminal post -doesn't matter which. With everything 'off' (including dome lights) you should see a minimal draw - like 50-100 mA - and not 500 mA (1/2 amp).

50-100 mA will easily power the radio memory, etc. Less is always better, here. If you see a large draw, something is stuck on.

 

[mongoose2231]

If you Get a bigger draw than usual after performing said test, (see above), then connect your amp meter to each fuse slot, one by one until you isolate the bad circuit. Should be easy enough to find it.

 

[rrv333]

Thanks to all for their advice!

 

[rrv333]

After pulling fuses, relays and such, finally success! I figured out that the 3.9 amp draw was coming from the fusible links. Several years back I had Durant Toyota replace all of the FL's and they replaced them with fusible wires. All of the fusible wires were soldered into a copper connector. When I disconnected the FL connector the amp draw on the meter dropped from 3.9 amps to zero amp draw. So I went about replacing the FL wire. Went to Napa to get the FL wire and they didn't have what I was needing. Went to Durant Toyota to see if they had the FL wire and success they had what I needed, best part they gave me the wire for free. Kudos to all of the parts personnel at Durant Toyota in Weatherford. P.S. after all of that it turned out to be my alternator that had taken a dump.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Well well...

 

[SteveH]

Nice work!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

So how could the fusible link itself be the problem? It's just a calibrated piece of wire, not something magic. What does that fusible link go to? When diodes fail in the alternator they drain batteries when the truck is not running.

Report back what happens next. Glad you replaced a link if faulty, but that isn't the problem.

 

[FJ60Seth]

I think all wiring, except the starter, is fused through the fusible link, so if you have parasitic drain, it will apparent there.

 

[rrv333]

So how could the fusible link itself be the problem? It's just a calibrated piece of wire, not something magic. What does that fusible link go to? When diodes fail in the alternator they drain batteries when the truck is not running.

Report back what happens next. Glad you replaced a link if faulty, but that isn't the problem.

Exactly, the FL's weren't the problem, the alternator was the problem. Prior to figuring out the issue about the alternator, I was pulling fuses and relays with no luck until I pulled the copper connector with all of the FL's. When I pulled that connector the amp draw dropped to zero so I automatically assumed that was the location of my problem. I have zero electrical experience with LC's so I made an assumption and we all know what happens when you assume things. After I had replaced all of the FL's and still had my amp draw is when I finally figured out that it was the alternator, so yes you were correct, it wasn't the FL's.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Well I win. I'll pm my address for the prise.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Awesome you got it resolved, now get back to enjoying the ride!