Builds KILL WHITEY. SqWADoosh's venture into a 80 build. (1 Viewer)

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May 13, 2015
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Hey guys. Just getting started on the forum. Brought home my first 80 last night. Not new to Toyota 4x4s by any means. With this 80 I'm pretty close to having had one of every type. I started with a very mildly built 89 Toyota pickup. Then my first balls to the walls build was my 85 4Runner. Like a fool I sold that truck that worked so well and got into a SAS 1st gen Tacoma. I had linked front and rear by a shop that did a piss poor job of it.

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I just got out from under that Tacoma in December and after taking a break and re-assessing my priorities I went on the hunt for a clean triple locked 80. After wading through the typical 10k+ options I came across a very clean low mileage 97 on craigslist. I reached out to the guy and he told me he had been building it with the aim of taking it with him down to Ecuador when he retires. Unfortunately he found out about some changes in the laws pertaining to export of vehicles that now doesn't make it worth his while.

The truck is a creampuff. Spending the majority of its life as a California rig and then being garage kept and never offroaded once he purchased it up here in the PNW. There isn't a spot of rust that I can find and the diffs don't have a scratch on them.

- 208k miles
- Headgasket done at 170k
- Triple locked from factory
- OEM 13 gallon Aux fuel tank
- Metal tech front bumper
- Kaymar swing out rear bumper
- Corbeau Seats
- Rear seats removed and cargo area modded with tie down points
- Old school OME 2" lift
- Dynamatted entire interior

I had torfab go through the truck and find what needed addressing and to give me a professional opinion on the truck. They came back with a clean bill of health with the exception of the typical FJ80 oil leaks, a radiator that had the wrong coolant used in it at one time, and a power steering pump leak. Otherwise they said it was a great truck and a definite yes in the buy column. So I worked a deal and took it home for a great price.

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So as you can tell by my prior builds I'm not going to be your standard FJ80 owner. I like to play in the rocks and doing some of the most challenging trails in the country. That being said I am getting older and getting a little more tame with my rockcrawling. My Taco was on 40s linked front and rear and was pretty much terrible as a DD and impossible to use for out of state trips unless I trailered. I don't have a daddy who is funding my hobbies and vehicles so no tow rig and brand new trailer for me. I'm a 30 year old guy who has had to make my own way in the world. I make decent money however I am saving up to buy a house in the near future and have more going on than just wheeling. My vehicles have to be multi purpose as a DD and my toy.

With that being said I have the following plans so far:

37" tire - I was very happy with my pro-comp tires and I am leaning that direction again. I really would like to give the new Cooper STT Pros a shot but their running small has lead me away from them.

Method 105 Beadlock wheel - this lightweight beadlock wheel with a -38 offset is going to be my wheel choice. I had ATX slabs on the taco and don't think I can go back from a quality beadlock wheel after having experienced them.

3" Progressive Springs and 2.5" smothies - This is where I am most up in the air right now. I have gone through the entire slinky thread and this is where I am leaning right now however the $4200 price tag is killing me. I'm well aware that 2.5 shocks are not cheap and especially ones that have been specially valved and built to specification. I am open to suggestions. I am considering possibly pairing the slinky coils up with kings, slee (ADS), or radflos instead and saving a grand that way. However the appeal of a completely ironed out kit that all the components are tuned to work perfectly together is really appealing to me after the fiasco my suspension was on my last truck

Metal tech adjustable rear arms - I've seen great results out of these on my buddies rig and really like the quality that MT puts out.

RCV for the front - I had RCVs in my 4runner and loved them. Will definitely be going with them again now that I am back into a Toyota 8"

Nitro chromoly rear axle shafts - Look to be the only game in town for chromoly rear and I have loved all nitro products I've used in the past.

COME UP Seal 9.5rs - I've always been a warn guy but I'm really liking what I'm seeing with these guys and thinking I'm going to go with them this time around. Would love to hear from those of you who have had experience with these winches.

Ironman adjustable pan hard bars - I'm hearing these are the best bang for the buck on adjustable pan hards.

I'm new to the world of 80s with the exception of being an audience member for my buddy Pounder's build these last 4 years. Very open to suggestions and opinions with this build. I built my last two trucks with the advice and guidance from the marlin forum of which I am an avid member so I'll definitely be keeping everyone up to date with info and pictures as I go forward. I look forward to the journey.

Cheers
- Andrew
 
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Sweet 4Runner. I miss leaf springs :eek:

Sounds like you have a pretty good grasp on what needs to be done. I'm a fellow cheapskate (or should I say budget-conscious) but 80 ownership has taught me that anything you try to save a buck on, you will eventually end up re-doing. So slinkies or not, I would recommend getting something built to work together.
 
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Sweet 4Runner. I miss leaf springs :eek:

Sounds like you have a pretty good grasp on what needs to be done. I'm a fellow cheapskate (or should I say budget-conscious) but 80 ownership has taught me that anything you try to save a buck on, you will eventually end up re-doing. So slinkies or not, I would recommend getting something built to work together.

Absolutely and I've learned that lesson already. I actually just got off the phone with Kevin from Endless Horizon who had Darren from Autocraft in the car with him. Chatted them up about my truck, my plans, and which kit would be best for me. Some great customer service so far from them so that makes me lean that direction even more.
 
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If you're buddies with and hang out with Pounder and Eissmann you should skip the slinky kit and go to a 3 link up front and some dobs in the rear.
 
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If you're buddies with and hang out with Pounder and Eissmann you should skip the slinky kit and go to a 3 link up front and some dobs in the rear.

As I stated above I'm moving away from the need for ridiculous articulation anyways. Plan to do difficult trails while keeping this truck clean. From what I've seen in the slinky thread and what I saw out of Pounder's truck before it got linked I'm going to be able to get all that I need while sticking with coils and shocks. He'll tell you himself that if he had it to do over again he wouldn't link it. More hassle and money than its worth for little gain. My own experience with a linked truck steers me away from it as well.
 
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No thanks. Brian's truck is a clone of Pounder's as it is. The world doesn't need a 3rd and I wouldn't want one. I prefer to do my own thing anyways rather than copy someone else build. As I stated above I'm moving away from the need for ridiculous articulation anyways. Plan to do difficult trails while keeping this truck clean. From what I've seen in the slinky thread and what I saw out of Pounder's truck before it got linked I'm going to be able to get all that I need while sticking with coils and shocks. He'll tell you himself that if he had it to do over again he wouldn't link it. More hassle and money than its worth for little gain. My own experience with a linked truck steers me away from it as well.

Props to you man for having some control and hoeing your own row. These trucks are remarkably capable without much done to them, based on your own words and usage layed out i dont see where the need for adjustable valving, remote resied, 2.5s fit in. If you want to run a slinky kit, go for it, but there are at least 2 other suspension manufacturers on this board that produce the same coil design without charging out the nose for a "matched kit". Tapered/Progressive wound coil springs can be found by talking with @reevesci at Trail Tailor and @David Otero with Dobinson before blowing your load on the Autocraft kit.
 
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Props to you man for having some control and hoeing your own row. These trucks are remarkably capable without much done to them, based on your own words and usage layed out i dont see where the need for adjustable remote resied 2.5s fit in. If you want to run a slinky kit, go for it, but there are at least 2 other suspension manufacturers on this board that produce the same coil design without charging out the nose for a "matched kit". Tapered/Progressive wound coil springs can be found by talking with @reevesci at Trail Tailor and @David Otero with Dobinson before blowing your load on the Autocraft kit.

I've looked into those. The coils are the same price more or less between Dobinson and Slinky with the Slinky being the original and not baby blue :eek:. The extra price comes from the Icon shocks that they have specifically valved for their kit. Like I said above I'm not opposed to pairing the coils with a different shock however after pricing out an equivalent adjustable king shock to pair with the coils I'm right up there with the price of the slinky kit and the king shocks weren't built and tested in conjunction with the coils.... I will look into trail tailor though. What can you tell me about their offering?

I don't see a resi 2.5 as being overkill for a vehicle of this weight by any means. I've experienced shock fade with 2.0 shocks on a much lighter vehicle running forest service roads up here in our Naches district. Also a 2.5 shock has a longer lifespan (especially with such a heavy vehicle) and with the adjusters the ability to adapt to any terrain or difference in payload I run in the cruiser.
 
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No thanks. Brian's truck is a clone of Pounder's as it is. The world doesn't need a 3rd and I wouldn't want one. I prefer to do my own thing anyways rather than copy someone else build. As I stated above I'm moving away from the need for ridiculous articulation anyways. Plan to do difficult trails while keeping this truck clean. From what I've seen in the slinky thread and what I saw out of Pounder's truck before it got linked I'm going to be able to get all that I need while sticking with coils and shocks. He'll tell you himself that if he had it to do over again he wouldn't link it. More hassle and money than its worth for little gain. My own experience with a linked truck steers me away from it as well.


Really excited to see this build! Welcome to the 80 series group!
 
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I've looked into those. The coils are the same price more or less between Dobinson and Slinky with the Slinky being the original and not baby blue :eek:. The extra price comes from the Icon shocks that they have specifically valved for their kit. Like I said above I'm not opposed to pairing the coils with a different shock however after pricing out an equivalent adjustable king shock to pair with the coils I'm right up there with the price of the slinky kit and the king shocks weren't built and tested in conjunction with the coils.... I will look into trail tailor though. What can you tell me about their offering?

I don't see a resi 2.5 as being overkill for a vehicle of this weight by any means. I've experienced shock fade with 2.0 shocks on a much lighter vehicle running forest service roads up here in our Naches district. Also a 2.5 shock has a longer lifespan (especially with such a heavy vehicle) and with the adjusters the ability to adapt to any terrain or difference in payload I run in the cruiser.

The autocraft coils are made by Dobinson so not sure i would say they are the "originals".

I've ran 2.0 Icon smoothies and the balls out 2.5 CDC Valved versions and while they are nice not worth the cost of admission IMO. I've had two different sets of valving adjustables (Icon 2.5s and Fox 2.5s) and both sets I found what i liked and left them there, for me, the adjustable valving was a neat novelty that wore off really quickly. I told myself that i'd firm them up for highway daily driver use and set them to cush mode for crawling and trails but that $hit never happened! haha I set them to a happy medium and never touched them again.

I have never been to south america, africa, or australia but the fact that 80s and 100s are used/abused all over the world without running 2.5 RRs makes me think that the shocks available are suffecient equipment for all but the 5% bombing the desert and hauling an expo trailer everywhere they go. Here's a good read on shocks for our trucks that showcases the capabilities and limitations of "normal" shocks. http://www.euro4x4parts.com/images/4wd_action_165_tough_dog.pdf

That link is from the Tough Dog/Trail Tailor suspension thread here. TOUGH DOG SUSPENSIONS and TOUR FLEX SPRINGS

You're likely going to love whatever you spend your coin on, I went down the same road not six months ago and wound up going with the Tough Dog/Trail Tailor stuff after talking with all three companies. (Slinky, TD/TT, Dobs) Read, research, inquire, and dont be wooed by a low (or high) price tag!
 
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The autocraft coils are made by Dobinson so not sure i would say they are the "originals".
I have never been to south america, africa, or australia but the fact that 80s and 100s are used/abused all over the world without running 2.5 RRs makes me think that the shocks available are suffecient equipment for all but the 5% bombing the desert and hauling an expo trailer everywhere they go. Here's a good read on shocks for our trucks that showcases the capabilities and limitations of "normal" shocks. http://www.euro4x4parts.com/images/4wd_action_165_tough_dog.pdf

Interesting and informative read. However all I see there is a comparison between 2.0 shocks.
 
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Interesting and informative read. However all I see there is a comparison between 2.0 shocks.

I figured you'd say something like that so thats why i called them "normal" shocks. :D

Shock sizing isn't that simple when it comes to twin tube shocks. The only 2" mono tube shock in that test is the Bilstein. Go back and look at the OD of the other shocks. All but one measured larger than 2", 51mm = 2.00". Bigger bodies are carrying more fluid, I'd wager putting their fluid volume somewhere between a 2.0" and a 2.5" shock allowing them to resist fade better.
 
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I want to run 2.5” king coil overs, on stockish front end. Need a dc driveshaft, unbolt my shocks and see where i bind. Measure the travel and buy accordingly. No real reason other than bling and adjustability mixed with a little “compactness”. Prob run a 2” king bumpstop too, prob bumps in the rear, but on my current icon 3” springs, but maybe some king’s in the stock location.

Sorry, i kinda hijacked your thread, i like what youre doing with yours, gorgeous truck.
 
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I think you'll find they were developed and made to autocraft's specs.

Exactly. My understanding is yes Dobinson made the srpings for autocraft as they were ordered then made their own version and started selling them after seeing how popular the autocraft slinkys were.
 
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I want to run 2.5” king coil overs, on stockish front end. Need a dc driveshaft, unbolt my shocks and see where i bind. Measure the travel and buy accordingly. No real reason other than bling and adjustability mixed with a little “compactness”. Prob run a 2” king bumpstop too, prob bumps in the rear, but on my current icon 3” springs, but maybe some king’s in the stock location.

Sorry, i kinda hijacked your thread, i like what youre doing with yours, gorgeous truck.

No offense but I don't see the reasoning on buying coilovers unless you are 3 linking....
 
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No offense but I don't see the reasoning on buying coilovers unless you are 3 linking....


Well, adjustability is one, i can also pick my own rates and change them if you should ever want to. Custom valving, bypass and a resi. All allow me to adjust the suspension to how i want it.

Ive seen an old bronco with 14” c/o and he used all of it, stock radius arms and it worked really well.

Tight now i love the ride of my icons, but not the height of the truck up front. Im waiting until my bumpers are built, then decide what to do, but it may be a pipe dream, i may get lazy and just leave the suspension how it is, but i know i can get more travel out of stock suspension with a coilover then my current shock setup. How much is the question.
 
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Sorry to get off subject but as a member who owns an 80 and a 1st gen I gotta know what size and Brand of tire is on that pictured red 1st gen?!? Looks awesome.

Good luck with your current build. I’ll be watching. Thanks.
 

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