Keep or remove California SMOG components? (1 Viewer)

[iptman]

Having a 77 California spec 40 myself I can tell you it's possible to get it running perfectly fine with all the smog equipment in place. The biggest net performance increases I got were, in order, finding/fixing all vacuum leaks, rebuilding the carb, valve adjustment. There's a guy on Ebay who sells a home brew smoker. You got to find the leaks before you can fix them. I had leaks everywhere including the manifold gasket. @OTRAMM rebuilt and rejetted my carb several years ago and I haven't had to do anything to it since. The California carbs come with smaller jets than Fed spec. There's a post out there either from @FJ40Jim or @65swb45 recommending jet sizes for the California carbs. The distributor vacuum retard is the line coming vertical off the diaphragm (assuming you have the original distributor). You don't have to cap it, just get a .177 BB and shove it up the end of that vacuum line and put the line back on the diaphragm. This will accomplish the same thing but leaves the stock look and you don't have to cap the other end. Do a search for OEM vacuum line on here. The OEM 3mm vacuum hose is relatively inexpensive and a perfect fit. I think I bought 12 or 14 lengths of 1 meter line and was able to do the job with line to spare. Getting rid of that blue line will help it look less messy under there. I recently picked up a used Haynes manual for cheap and found the Cali vacuum diagram in it. Well worth the price. The 77 distributor uses points and as of a couple years ago the replacement points kit was still available from Toyota. A lot of people say to switch out to an electronic distributor but I've not had any problem with mine. Plus if you keep the points you can happily know your 40 can survive an EMP . I also try to run only non-ethanol, usually 87 octane. I always use fuel treatment as well since I only drive it around a 1000 miles per year.

Have you determined if your carb cooling fan works? It should click on if the thermistor/sensor is over 180 degrees when you shut off the engine. It's hard to tell from your picture but it doesn't look like you have the thermal reactor exhaust manifold anymore. Mine was cracked and I replaced it with a later model Fed manifold and EGR pipe. The factory thermal reactor manifold was designed to get hot quickly, the Fed manifold doesn't get quite as hot so mine only kicks on sometimes in the summer.

Haynes manual

Vacuum routing diagram.

My engine bay just for reference.

 

[iptman]

Also, get a OEM radiator cap. That cheap knock-off parts store jobber is an eye-sore.

And to replace that zip-tie and worm gear clamp City Racer (can never remember his actual handle) sells good SS 2 wire clamps.

Land Cruiser 40 and 55 Series - https://www.cityracerllc.com/collections/land-cruiser-40-and-55-series (page 23).

 

[avicenna110]

Having a 77 California spec 40 myself I can tell you it's possible to get it running perfectly fine with all the smog equipment in place. The biggest net performance increases I got were, in order, finding/fixing all vacuum leaks, rebuilding the carb, valve adjustment. There's a guy on Ebay who sells a home brew smoker. You got to find the leaks before you can fix them. I had leaks everywhere including the manifold gasket. @OTRAMM rebuilt and rejetted my carb several years ago and I haven't had to do anything to it since. The California carbs come with smaller jets than Fed spec. There's a post out there either from @FJ40Jim or @65swb45 recommending jet sizes for the California carbs. The distributor vacuum retard is the line coming vertical off the diaphragm (assuming you have the original distributor). You don't have to cap it, just get a .177 BB and shove it up the end of that vacuum line and put the line back on the diaphragm. This will accomplish the same thing but leaves the stock look and you don't have to cap the other end. Do a search for OEM vacuum line on here. The OEM 3mm vacuum hose is relatively inexpensive and a perfect fit. I think I bought 12 or 14 lengths of 1 meter line and was able to do the job with line to spare. Getting rid of that blue line will help it look less messy under there. I recently picked up a used Haynes manual for cheap and found the Cali vacuum diagram in it. Well worth the price. The 77 distributor uses points and as of a couple years ago the replacement points kit was still available from Toyota. A lot of people say to switch out to an electronic distributor but I've not had any problem with mine. Plus if you keep the points you can happily know your 40 can survive an EMP . I also try to run only non-ethanol, usually 87 octane. I always use fuel treatment as well since I only drive it around a 1000 miles per year.

Have you determined if your carb cooling fan works? It should click on if the thermistor/sensor is over 180 degrees when you shut off the engine. It's hard to tell from your picture but it doesn't look like you have the thermal reactor exhaust manifold anymore. Mine was cracked and I replaced it with a later model Fed manifold and EGR pipe. The factory thermal reactor manifold was designed to get hot quickly, the Fed manifold doesn't get quite as hot so mine only kicks on sometimes in the summer.

Haynes manual
View attachment 2855971

Vacuum routing diagram.
View attachment 2855972

My engine bay just for reference.
View attachment 2855973

Thanks @iptman for the nice summary. Haven’t got to the smog yet in my build but someday I will and this is very useful. I’ve been reading quite a bit about it and bought the manual a well, but still feel like I don’t know anything. It’s just amazing how quickly the emission system got so complicated in the late 70’s for a relatively simple car. Each sub-component is not complicated in itself but there is a lot going on for a ‘77 Cal spec….

 

[sogncab]

Do you guys run premium in your rigs?

Octane basically doesn't matter on such an under stressed engine with an 8:1 compression ratio.

Just keep the ethanol out of it. Mine runs terribly on corn gas.

If I were planning on keeping my 2F, I would strip all of that stuff off and put throttle body injection on. It'll run better, cleaner, and with less fail points.

 

[BIRDMAN84]

Having a 77 California spec 40 myself I can tell you it's possible to get it running perfectly fine with all the smog equipment in place. The biggest net performance increases I got were, in order, finding/fixing all vacuum leaks, rebuilding the carb, valve adjustment. There's a guy on Ebay who sells a home brew smoker. You got to find the leaks before you can fix them. I had leaks everywhere including the manifold gasket. @OTRAMM rebuilt and rejetted my carb several years ago and I haven't had to do anything to it since. The California carbs come with smaller jets than Fed spec. There's a post out there either from @FJ40Jim or @65swb45 recommending jet sizes for the California carbs. The distributor vacuum retard is the line coming vertical off the diaphragm (assuming you have the original distributor). You don't have to cap it, just get a .177 BB and shove it up the end of that vacuum line and put the line back on the diaphragm. This will accomplish the same thing but leaves the stock look and you don't have to cap the other end. Do a search for OEM vacuum line on here. The OEM 3mm vacuum hose is relatively inexpensive and a perfect fit. I think I bought 12 or 14 lengths of 1 meter line and was able to do the job with line to spare. Getting rid of that blue line will help it look less messy under there. I recently picked up a used Haynes manual for cheap and found the Cali vacuum diagram in it. Well worth the price. The 77 distributor uses points and as of a couple years ago the replacement points kit was still available from Toyota. A lot of people say to switch out to an electronic distributor but I've not had any problem with mine. Plus if you keep the points you can happily know your 40 can survive an EMP . I also try to run only non-ethanol, usually 87 octane. I always use fuel treatment as well since I only drive it around a 1000 miles per year.

Have you determined if your carb cooling fan works? It should click on if the thermistor/sensor is over 180 degrees when you shut off the engine. It's hard to tell from your picture but it doesn't look like you have the thermal reactor exhaust manifold anymore. Mine was cracked and I replaced it with a later model Fed manifold and EGR pipe. The factory thermal reactor manifold was designed to get hot quickly, the Fed manifold doesn't get quite as hot so mine only kicks on sometimes in the summer.

Haynes manual
View attachment 2855971

Vacuum routing diagram.
View attachment 2855972

My engine bay just for reference.
View attachment 2855973

I really, really, really appreciate the help and advise. I just ordered the same repair manual.

I'm definitely going to order that home brew smoker. I tried the carb cleaner trick but didn't turn up any leaks on the vacuum lines, but i'm sure there has to be one somewhere. I'll also order the 3mm hose and re-plum everything. Do you know if new VCV's or BVSB's are still available? One of mine looks to be wrapped in electrical tape, so I assume that was to plug up a leak.

I have not dug into the distributer yet, but I planned or ordering a new cap/rotor this week from my local Toyota dealership. To be honest, electrical stuff scares me. I have always owned HEI distributers on my vehicles, the this set-up seems pretty foreign to me. While we're on it, what is the box mounted on top of the coil called, exciter? Mine looks to be original, but curious if it needs periodic maintenance or replacing. I'll do some research on greasing/cleaning the point and all of that, but I'll have to read up on dwell angle as well.

I'll get a picture and measure the plugs as soon as I can. I pulled one the day I got it and it was not fouled with oil and it looked decent to me.

The cooling fan looks to be in great condition, but it's been pretty chilly here so I don't believe it has needed to kick on. I assume there is an easy way to confirm if it works or not? I'd like to test it.

I'm 99% sure I have the original Cali header. In fact, mine also appears to be cracked, however it is not leaking. As you can tell from the picture below, i think i lucked out and both of the exhaust ports are still being contained where it counts. there is no evidence of leakage. My muffler does need to be replaced ASAP. It has visible cracks and rot from rust, although it is still quiet.

 

[Catching Neutral]

78 Cali spec….now in FL….desmogged it as soon as I could.

 

[4Cruisers]

While we're on it, what is the box mounted on top of the coil called, exciter? Mine looks to be original, but curious if it needs periodic maintenance or replacing. I'll do some research on greasing/cleaning the point and all of that, but I'll have to read up on dwell angle as well.

That's the igniter, they hold up pretty well, so it's probably good. No points in your distributor, it's a fully electronic ignition system. No dwell angle to worry about either. But there is a specification for the gap between the "spokes" on the pickup wheel and the signal generator inside the distributor - 0.004" and 0.020", I usually adjust them to the middle of the range, 0.012". BTW, you can check the condition of the signal generator by measuring the resistance across the pins in the wire connector - it should be between 100 and 200 ohms.

 

[avicenna110]

I really, really, really appreciate the help and advise. I just ordered the same repair manual.

I'm definitely going to order that home brew smoker. I tried the carb cleaner trick but didn't turn up any leaks on the vacuum lines, but i'm sure there has to be one somewhere. I'll also order the 3mm hose and re-plum everything. Do you know if new VCV's or BVSB's are still available? One of mine looks to be wrapped in electrical tape, so I assume that was to plug up a leak.

I have not dug into the distributer yet, but I planned or ordering a new cap/rotor this week from my local Toyota dealership. To be honest, electrical stuff scares me. I have always owned HEI distributers on my vehicles, the this set-up seems pretty foreign to me. While we're on it, what is the box mounted on top of the coil called, exciter? Mine looks to be original, but curious if it needs periodic maintenance or replacing. I'll do some research on greasing/cleaning the point and all of that, but I'll have to read up on dwell angle as well.

I'll get a picture and measure the plugs as soon as I can. I pulled one the day I got it and it was not fouled with oil and it looked decent to me.

The cooling fan looks to be in great condition, but it's been pretty chilly here so I don't believe it has needed to kick on. I assume there is an easy way to confirm if it works or not? I'd like to test it.

I'm 99% sure I have the original Cali header. In fact, mine also appears to be cracked, however it is not leaking. As you can tell from the picture below, i think i lucked out and both of the exhaust ports are still being contained where it counts. there is no evidence of leakage. My muffler does need to be replaced ASAP. It has visible cracks and rot from rust, although it is still quiet. View attachment 2857415

Most components are not available anymore, including the VCVs. The blue BVSV is available, so is the blue VTV. I put a list here for the parts I was looking for if you wanna look, it says which one is available from Toyota:

Builds - Bought our newborn a Toy

I recently became a father and thought of doing something for my son. Initially I thought about putting some money away for him. Although I will probably do that anyways I thought building a Land Cruiser that I can give him when he grows up would be more special. Plus they're going up in value...

forum.ih8mud.com

It looks like you have aftermarket exhaust headers instead of the original Cal spec thermal reactor right?

 

[fjc-man]

Is there a “bung” on the after market header for the EGR pipe to the EGR cooler?

 

[BIRDMAN84]

I will take a picture when I get home from work as I couldn't tell ya what the original looked like anyhow.

 

[iptman]

No points in your distributor, it's a fully electronic ignition system. No dwell angle to worry about either.

You sure about that? I'm fairly certain the 77 distributor is points based. Mine is and I'm 99% sure it's factory original.

 

[iptman]

I really, really, really appreciate the help and advise. I just ordered the same repair manual.

I'm definitely going to order that home brew smoker. I tried the carb cleaner trick but didn't turn up any leaks on the vacuum lines, but i'm sure there has to be one somewhere. I'll also order the 3mm hose and re-plum everything. Do you know if new VCV's or BVSB's are still available? One of mine looks to be wrapped in electrical tape, so I assume that was to plug up a leak.

I have not dug into the distributer yet, but I planned or ordering a new cap/rotor this week from my local Toyota dealership. To be honest, electrical stuff scares me. I have always owned HEI distributers on my vehicles, the this set-up seems pretty foreign to me. While we're on it, what is the box mounted on top of the coil called, exciter? Mine looks to be original, but curious if it needs periodic maintenance or replacing. I'll do some research on greasing/cleaning the point and all of that, but I'll have to read up on dwell angle as well.

I'll get a picture and measure the plugs as soon as I can. I pulled one the day I got it and it was not fouled with oil and it looked decent to me.

The cooling fan looks to be in great condition, but it's been pretty chilly here so I don't believe it has needed to kick on. I assume there is an easy way to confirm if it works or not? I'd like to test it.

I'm 99% sure I have the original Cali header. In fact, mine also appears to be cracked, however it is not leaking. As you can tell from the picture below, i think i lucked out and both of the exhaust ports are still being contained where it counts. there is no evidence of leakage. My muffler does need to be replaced ASAP. It has visible cracks and rot from rust, although it is still quiet. View attachment 2857415

There's never been a "factory" header. Here's a picture of the cast 76/77 Cali thermal reactor exhaust manifold.

The carb cooling fan only has 2 wires. One is 12v the other ground. If you unplug it and get some alligator clips just touch them one way or the other. If you get them backwards all it'll do is spin the wrong way. You won't know if it works when it's hot until you heat up the sensor that's behind the carb past 180 degrees. You can use a heat gun and a laser IR gun to make sure it's up to temp and not too much over temp to damage it. Here's a pic of the sensor.

 

[BIRDMAN84]

That's the igniter, they hold up pretty well, so it's probably good. No points in your distributor, it's a fully electronic ignition system. No dwell angle to worry about either. But there is a specification for the gap between the "spokes" on the pickup wheel and the signal generator inside the distributor - 0.004" and 0.020", I usually adjust them to the middle of the range, 0.012". BTW, you can check the condition of the signal generator by measuring the resistance across the pins in the wire connector - it should be between 100 and 200 ohms.

I'm pretty sure is has points... may not be stock though. I'll take a picture tonight.

 

[iptman]

If you look on the firewall on the passenger side footwell you should see this box. This is the controller for the thermistor and carb cooling fan.

 

[4Cruisers]

You sure about that? I'm fairly certain the 77 distributor is points based. Mine is and I'm 99% sure it's factory original.

You're right, form some reason I've got '78 on my mind. Probably because the California spec advancer has advance and retard, just like the '78 Federal spec advancer.

And the box on top of the coil definitely an igniter, so it's a semi-electronic distributor. That igniter with points basically serves the same purpose as the condenser on F engine distributors.

 

[pithicus]

Some had igniters that used points as a trigger. 1975 to 77 I think

 

[Fast Eddy]

If you look on the firewall on the passenger side footwell you should see this box. This is the controller for the thermistor and carb cooling fan.

View attachment 2857607

There's a fuse wrapped in yellow tape on one of the wires right by that box. They are almost always blown and sometimes the only issue. The solder joints for the connector (inside the relay box) are another issue that's easy to resolve if necessary (reflow the solder with an iron).

If you desmog, make sure to keep one of the BVSVs as a valve between carb vacuum and the tank evap system. You want to keep that to keep your garage from smelling like gas.

 

[Dizzy]

If you desmog, make sure to keep one of the BVSVs as a valve between carb vacuum and the tank evap system. You want to keep that to keep your garage from smelling like gas.

I'm learning here, I've yet to hear about the thermostat vac spot taking the role of the Vacuum Switching Valve for the gas tank vapors. I need to do that on my truck.

I think that the factory used the little barb on the manifold vacuum fitting (next to the PCV inlet tube) for tank vapors. I suspect that this part has a flashback arrestor in its design because light won't shine thru, and the amount of air that can travel feels a bit restricted?

 

[Fast Eddy]

The one screwed into the manifold is called the "gas filter". Maybe that's why? There should be little actual air/fumes moving around in operation. It's just to suck the fumes out of the charcoal can when you start up and hold vacuum on the tank itself during operation.

 

[BIRDMAN84]

I'm pretty sure is has points... may not be stock though. I'll take a picture tonight.

Here's ma pic: