It’s been a couple of days, any chance I can get the order fulfilled? I’m dead in the water until I can try the new switchthe Larger Group batter will NOT cause your issue .......
but a CHINA made key switch could and i have seen it happen new out of the cheap bag they come in ...........
you get what you pay for in your land cruiser world ........
if you wish to eliminate this possible cause ?
i can have this in the mail today .......
100% Japan Spec. TOYOTA Genuine OEM parts .....
OEM Toyota GENUINE PARTS Ignition Switch Key Lock Column Type Fits 1973 - 1984 FJ40 , FJ55 FJ45 84450-60070 Direct Interchangeable # 84450-36011 , 84450-60050 - VintageTEqParts.comOEM Toyota Ignition Switch Key Lock Column Type Locking And NON-Locking Column Fits 1973 - 1984 FJ40 , FJ55...vintageteqparts.com
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It’s been a couple of days, any chance I can get the order fulfilled? I’m dead in the water until I can try the new switch
Hmm, it SEEMS fine, but I'll need to look again. Maybe I missed something. If the fusible link was blown, nothing would be getting power though, correct? everything else seems to be working fine (lights , etc)I'm having a hard time following here. We think that there is a short in the "engine" circuit because the engine fuse keeps blowing, right? I'd understand if the "engine" fuse was before the ignition switch, but, how could an open contact, or short to ground, at the switch blow the engine fuse or not melt the wire leading between the switch and the ammeter?
How does the fusible link look just after this vehicle's battery positive terminal?
I don't remember that conversation and can't find it, but glad to see the tracking number show up this morning. Thanks.
That’s a great info and I’ll be starting the testing tomorrow. To be clear, those pictures above were not mineOk, I'll take a swing at it, now. I claim no expertise in these matters, but, I've probably owned a melt-down, hard to say what happened before the harness was removed.
I'd test this harness one fuse circuit at a time. Akin to the process described by @Engineer8000. Pull your battery, cover the terminals with the plastic caps that they were shipped with (I always carry a black one in my tool bag). You are looking for conductivity (ohms) between the small wire at the battery positive, or alternatively the big wire on the screw on the alternator, and any of these fuse spots, at various positions of the key. You should have conductivity between the "stop" and "engine" slot when the key is in any position. Which slots and what key positions get you conductivity?
Don't connect the battery until you get a fusible link on the battery positive. They are available at the corner auto store, and an undersized one purchased there could/would be excellent for troubleshooting purposes.
My guess is that the above photos were a result of amperage from the alternator and not the battery, as the alternator is not restricted to the main circuit via any kind of fuse fusible link. I'm pretty sure that your alternator needs further diagnosis, as the charging system can be a pain if got independently fried or fried in concert with the battery.