KDSS relocation bracket

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35's with a lift fit as long as you're willing to cut the fender liners/ flares a good bit, and plan the right offset. but re-gear and other issues are created ...

E
 
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yeah I know regearing comes with the turf. Not sure why Christo seemed so against it. Guess he was just trying to save me some money for just a small increase in clearance.

Also since I am doing lockers now it seemed like the time to do it.
 
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all preference. If ima drive a gas guzzling wagon it better look badazz
 
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approximately $100 for the bracket I think. Then add bumpstops and maybe some cheap misc. Jason 2 Trail tailer makes them also
 
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Anyone going 35’s, I have a set of almost brand new wheels and KO2’s(35/12.50/18 for sale if you’re willing to pick them up in TN. I’ll meet you at any TN border.
984DC8E4-7B57-41AA-A212-FC5C21BACA93.jpeg
 
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For a newbie like me:
1. How does the relocation bracket help and how big and wide of tires can fit? 295/70/18, 285/75/18, etc?

2. How does the timbren bump stops help with the lift?

Please let me know. :)
I have the relocation kit installed running 295/70/18 Ridge Grapplers on stock 08 Wheels. They clear the KDSS now but, full lock u-turns my Tire rubs the stock UCA. I am thinking a small Wheel spacer. Side note is that the Bushings will prematurely wear because the relocation puts everything in a sort of a bind.
 
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Do you have the product number by any chance for the Bump Stops? Thanks!
 

Idaho Savage

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Bumping this thread to ask if you guys installed the relo brackets yourself and/or how difficult it is. Seems dangerously simple...and that's usually when I get myself in trouble. Thanks in advance.
 

bloc

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Bumping this thread to ask if you guys installed the relo brackets yourself and/or how difficult it is. Seems dangerously simple...and that's usually when I get myself in trouble. Thanks in advance.
Look up what linuxgod has written on relocating the links to run outboard on the arms. Need longer bolts and a spacer made for the original link pocket.

Otherwise the relo of the bar tortures the link bushings.
 

Idaho Savage

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Thanks @bloc . Looks like I could do it in steps in pinch. I.e. run the relos first just for clearance, then step up to LG's spacer solution in a few weeks?
 

bloc

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Thanks @bloc . Looks like I could do it in steps in pinch. I.e. run the relos first just for clearance, then step up to LG's spacer solution in a few weeks?
One advantage of putting the links outboard is that it dramatically simplifies getting the links onto the arms..
 

Idaho Savage

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One advantage of putting the links outboard is that it dramatically simplifies getting the links onto the arms..
One last question, I promise! I got the relo kit installed but the bolts for the outboard links were severely delayed. So now that I have them and the spacers ready and bored to 9/16", I'll be moving them outside of their perches retroactively.

Anything to know here? Is the KDSS bar under load? Seems like I could unbolt the links, jack the body up--pulling them out of the perches--then reverse the process but reattaching them to the outside. Thoughts? Should I strap the KDSS bar in place? Thanks in advance.
 

bloc

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One last question, I promise! I got the relo kit installed but the bolts for the outboard links were severely delayed. So now that I have them and the spacers ready and bored to 9/16", I'll be moving them outside of their perches retroactively.

Anything to know here? Is the KDSS bar under load? Seems like I could unbolt the links, jack the body up--pulling them out of the perches--then reverse the process but reattaching them to the outside. Thoughts? Should I strap the KDSS bar in place? Thanks in advance.
Even with the KDSS balance screws open the pressure within the system will put a downward force on the KDSS arm, and it’s not the weight of the truck or anything but it is too much to do by hand. So I usually stick a 2x4 upright on the end of the floor jack to hold the arm up and manipulate it to get the link into it’s place in the arm pocket. With it being outboard this will be easier, but yeah you can just use the jack to get the arm up/down to line up the bolt hole.

For the passenger side.. with the balance screws open, the arm does still push down, which tends to pull the passenger side up, but the friction in the arm bushings is enough to hold it mostly still in my case. I usually put a large cheater or breaker bar above the sway bar across to the closest frame rail and can pull the bar end/link down into place.

In the case of getting the links into the pockets without KDSS relo, which can be quite challenging, I’ll usually loosen but not remove the sway bar bracket bolts from the frame to allow the bar to move up and down and get me more slack. I think with just having to line up the links you won't need to do this, but it is an option if you have trouble.
 
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Idaho Savage

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Even with the KDSS balance screws open the pressure within the system will put a downward force on the KDSS arm, and it’s not the weight of the truck or anything but it is too much to do by hand. So I usually stick a 2x4 upright on the end of the floor jack to hold the arm up and manipulate it to get the link into it’s place in the arm pocket. With it being outboard this will be easier, but yeah you can just use the jack to get the arm up/down to line up the bolt hole.

For the passenger side.. with the balance screws open, the arm does still push down, which tends to pull the passenger side up, but the friction in the arm bushings is enough to hold it mostly still in my case. I usually put a large cheater or breaker bar above the sway bar across to the closest frame rail and can pull the arm down into place.

In the case of getting the links into the pockets without KDSS relo, which can be quite challenging, I’ll usually loosen but not remove the sway bar bracket bolts from the frame to allow the bar to move up and down and get me more slack. I think with just having to line up the links you won't need to do this, but it is an option if you have trouble.
Fantastic. Thank you so much.
 

linuxgod

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Ratchet straps are your friend when trying to reinstall everything.

If you’re on the ground you can remove the end link bolts from the LCA and the sway bar end links will not move. I don’t know if you unbolt the sway bar what will happen though… it might not move (which would be convenient) or it might get pushed way forward or back. :shrugs:

As @bloc notes the bar will move around particularly if you’ve jacked the front end up to work under the truck, so ratchet straps and a long cheater bar will help you muscle everything back into place.
 

bloc

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As @bloc notes the bar will move around particularly if you’ve jacked the front end up to work under the truck, so ratchet straps and a long cheater bar will help you muscle everything back into place.

Good point about jacking up, I’d avoid it to keep the suspension closer to the mid point of it’s travel.

When I changed my end links recently I just put the front of the truck on ramps.
 

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