Just picked up my first Land Cruiser, a 2006 with 202k miles

Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
3
Location
Mount Pleasant, SC
Like the title says, just got a new to me 2006 Land Cruiser with 202k miles on Friday. I'd been poking around here off an on for a while and figured I'd sign up and join this fine community. Barely broken in, right? I'm planning on DDing this and letting my wife drive the X5D for a while . If she doesn't want to keep that we might end up selling it, but for the immediate future, this is a third vehicle. I was A) getting tired of the maintenance on a 7 year old diesel BMW and B) already in the market for a LC kinda sorta. Wife saw this one while driving by and said I should go look at it. And here we are. Is it bad that I'm more confident in a 200k mile 13 year old Toyota than a 77k mile 7 year old BMW?

Its got a handful of issues, mostly cosmetic. Not a spot of rust that I, or the Toyota dealer I took it to for a pre-purchase inspection could find. Engine bay looked immaculate.

Cosmetically:
-Front and Rear bumpers are scraped up pretty bad on all 4 corners, could repaint them, could just replace them. (with what tho?)
-Missing a trim piece on the rear passenger quarter panel.
-The wheels... I guess they look like the original silver paint/color is wearing thin and there's some black showing through. Thought it was brake dust at first but its not coming off with a fingernail. Not that big of a deal.
-Driver's seat has some wear and tear, but its not that bad.

Mechanically:
-Driver's window is falling of the track. I did some reading on here that says maybe I can just re-seat it and pinch the metal channel on the regulator to keep it in place and it'll be fine?
- Timing belt hasn't been changed since 95k miles. I'm going to get that done, plus water pump, tstat, something something seal (camshaft?), and belt tensioner pulley. Does that about cover what I should replace while the timing belt is getting done?
-One of the plastic T's (coolant) looks like there's a little gunk on it so I figure I need to go ahead and replace both of those.
-Pre-purchase inspection said to keep an eye on the power steering fluid level as I've got a small leak there, and to just be aware there's some grease coming out of the front axles, but that it's relatively 'normal' and I'll hear it when it really gets bad. They also suggested I just go ahead and replace all the fluids, which is on my list of things to do.
-Rear pads are at 1mm, but fronts look brand new? (rear pad replacement is on the list)
-The hood struts don't hold the hood up any more. That can wait.
-Radio antenna is bent, and won't retract all the way. I've got a new one in the mail.

Other:
- I currently only have 1 jump seat. Previous owner is a friend of the 'dealer' (its a mom n pop type place) and says he might have it but he's out of town at the moment, waiting to hear back.
- I only got one key, but... see above. I'm not really holding my breath on either.
- Wife said something was dripping on her foot in the passenger well. Haven't really looked into this yet. AC related?

I got it for $12.5k for those who were wondering.

So .... now what? Oh its a non-AHC truck fwiw.

Immediate future I'm just going to drive it and see what shakes out. Past that, I think it needs bigger tires and maybe a mild lift. Past that? I don't know yet.

IMG_0101.jpg
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
3
Location
Mount Pleasant, SC
Also, having gone through the AIP fiasco with a prior Sequoia (limp mode on the way to our anniversary dinner date!), I'm aware of the bypass thing and am keeping an eye on it, but no signs of impending doom just yet.
 

aging fleet

Out adjusting my torsion bars
SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 30, 2014
Messages
850
Location
Columbus, OH
Congrats and welcome

Regarding the timing belt job, I tend to replace everything that touches the timing belt so I did the belt, tensioner, pullies, water pump, and thermostat. With the vvti motor, you probably won't want to mess with the cam seals unless they're leaking (they're not easy to access like on the non-vvti motor), but the crank seal is fair game.

For the coolant Ts, consider putting a clamp on the coolant hose downstream of the T so if it crumbles during disassembly, you're not left trying to fish bits of plastic out of your cooling system.
 
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