Just inherited '82 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

You know I was going to link to the mustard 40 he just finished but that might be a little overwhelming!


For real!
 
Get it running, driving and stopping 1st. Change the fluids and make it safe. Then most importantly, drive it. You'll figure out what you want to do next. As mentioned b4, it's your vehicle, it's cool it's a family thing too. You'll find there are purist and folks who aren't, on this site. We all are Land Cruiser fans. The wealth of knowledge here is incredible. The folks here and the search function will be your friend. Youll likely start to turn a wrench or two. B4 you get into body work you should consider getting the mechanics in order 1st.
 
One thing to be really careful with is rust. If you leave it outside, put a cover on it. Cool Cruisers of Texas has a cover that fits. Salted roads rust these trucks out pretty badly, so avoid that if you can, or at least wash everything really well after you do. You already have through-rust in the rear sill area (super common- that is very likely not surface rust, but rust from the inside out).

If the rust is that bad in the back, you will probably have rust elsewhere, but again, it's really common on these trucks.

you have an amazing truck there, from the looks of it. Congrats!
 
Get it running, driving and stopping 1st. Change the fluids and make it safe. Then most importantly, drive it. You'll figure out what you want to do next. As mentioned b4, it's your vehicle, it's cool it's a family thing too. You'll find there are purist and folks who aren't, on this site. We all are Land Cruiser fans. The wealth of knowledge here is incredible. The folks here and the search function will be your friend. Youll likely start to turn a wrench or two. B4 you get into body work you should consider getting the mechanics in order 1st.


I know that Arizona does not have safety inspections but guessing the rust on the rear sill would not pass a safety inspection. The bumperettes and rear frame member are painted blue which means may have had possible rust repair once. Rear sill another color suggest rear sill repair a second time. This the many just the center and not the corners. The rear sill support is one piece. Not done right wheel wells and hard top are not supported correctly. I would access if it's structurally sound before driving it. Has to be a reason it's been parked in a garage for twenty years. I have a couple of old FJ40s in the backyard with rust rear sills. Not sure I'll ever do anything with them because of what it takes to repair a rear sill the right way.

I wouldn't repair the sill unless I did it right. Plus I wouldn't bother if it was possible to happen, in which case on the East Coast probably look into Poor Wally. While not original he is known for repairing rust to last as long as possible in the rust belt.
 
I know that Arizona does not have safety inspections but guessing the rust on the rear sill would not pass a safety inspection. The bumperettes and rear frame member are painted blue which means may have had possible rust repair once. Rear sill another color suggest rear sill repair a second time. This the many just the center and not the corners. The rear sill support is one piece. Not done right wheel wells and hard top are not supported correctly. I would access if it's structurally sound before driving it. Has to be a reason it's been parked in a garage for twenty years. I have a couple of old FJ40s in the backyard with rust rear sills. Not sure I'll ever do anything with them because of what it takes to repair a rear sill the right way.

I wouldn't repair the sill unless I did it right. Plus I wouldn't bother if it was possible to happen, in which case on the East Coast probably look into Poor Wally. While not original he is known for repairing rust to last as long as possible in the rust belt.

The Truck was only around 5 years old when my dad purchased it in 1987 from the original owner. I would be surprised if a lot of rust mitigation took place prior to his ownership. My dad, in his ownership never did any rust mitigation or painting.

Luckily, I was present the day it went in the garage- so no guesswork there.

Thanks for the info.
 
I think Living in the past, is correct. I appears at least the back end has been repainted, and some one did replace the rear sill sometime after the painting. It looks like they didn't replace the curved pieces of the sill that extends into the 1/4 panel, where the rust is bubbling. Get it safe and drive it.
 
I think Living in the past, is correct. I appears at least the back end has been repainted, and some one did replace the rear sill sometime after the painting. It looks like they didn't replace the curved pieces of the sill that extends into the 1/4 panel, where the rust is bubbling. Get it safe and drive it.
You were both right, as seen below. The back is much, much worse than I was aware.

Now I need to reevaluate the whole plan.

50989.jpeg
 
Don't freak out at that. Lots of us expected it. Start looking through build threads on this forum to get an idea on what it takes to fix these up. You can pay certain known good restoration companies, Cruiser Corps in OKC comes to mind, to do it for you. With it's history you really need to fix it and keep it. Get a blood test done weekly and you'll see that your testosterone goes up by half lives the longer you own the truck. If you restore and drive it wear your Steve McQueen face.
 
You need to empty it out get rid of the carpet, if it has the stk floor mat, hold on to it, and clean the thing out. Then assess it. Your already a head of the game, the price was right. Post some pics, then the opinions will fly. Get it starting, running, stopping. Make sure the driveline works, baseline it's condition. Then you'll figure out what you want to do.
 
You were both right, as seen below. The back is much, much worse than I was aware.

Now I need to reevaluate the whole plan.

View attachment 2306423


Compared to many I've seen this is not the bad. That picture does show the sill that is there has the original shape. The rear sill is the most common area on the FJ40 to rust.

You say you do not have garage space for the folks FJ40. If left outside and then plan on driving on the beach would think long and hard before spending the money to restore it to only have rust showing up in a few years. While not OEM correct Poor Wally does rust repair using much heavier metal. @JohnnyC would be a good one to ask about the Northeast rust and the FJ40.
 
Compared to many I've seen this is not the bad. That picture does show the sill that is there has the original shape. The rear sill is the most common area on the FJ40 to rust.

You say you do not have garage space for the folks FJ40. If left outside and then plan on driving on the beach would think long and hard before spending the money to restore it to only have rust showing up in a few years. While not OEM correct Poor Wally does rust repair using much heavier metal. @JohnnyC would be a good one to ask about the Northeast rust and the FJ40.
[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I really don't have anything available for a garage right now and leaving it where it was, was not an option.

I do want to be able to enjoy it, so hopefully I can it get it safe and mechanically sorted for a nice weekend cruiser and not spend too much.
 
[QUOTE="Living in the Past, post: 13084617, member: 6492"

You say you do not have garage space for the folks FJ40. If left outside and then plan on driving on the beach would think long and hard before spending the money to restore it to only have rust showing up in a few years.
[/QUOTE]

Put the 40 in the garage now and put the rover out in the weather. The 40 will only go up in value and the rover will only go down in value.
 
[QUOTE="Living in the Past, post: 13084617, member: 6492"

You say you do not have garage space for the folks FJ40. If left outside and then plan on driving on the beach would think long and hard before spending the money to restore it to only have rust showing up in a few years.

Put the 40 in the garage now and put the rover out in the weather. The 40 will only go up in value and the rover will only go down in value.
[/QUOTE]
Yeah, i am in a townhouse with no garage for the rover either. Might be looking at a storage unit, for the winter at least.
 
I did like the looks of


Weekend vehicle is really what the purpose of the truck is. I do like the trucks I have seen pictures of with the OME suspension, and figured the old suspension will be sagging at this point anyway. We go down to Southern Shores, NC probably 4 times a year and drive on the beach while we are there, so I want something that will be able to get us there and not get stuck on the beach. Beyond that, I have no real plans for serious trails.

I have little to no wrench turning capability, but wouldn't mind learning a few things. What would a very light restoration run?

Fort Fisher was the place to play with our 1982. Also purchased in 1987. She became a rust bucket. Stock except for 16” wheels and did fine on the sand.
Hope you enjoy it as much as we have.
 
As I stated in the CLCC forum, I am very familiar with the rust issues of the 1981+ 40's.
I'll be happy to take a look at it once it gets to NOVA and help you with scoping the project.
 
Nice score.
Just remember you have to shift the transfer case stick AND turn the wheel hubs to get 4WD. It's the old school way.
 
Nice ride! That rust is fixable with elbow grease and time. As mentioned previously, make sure the rig stops. When you get it running stay close to home so the gremlins can show themselves before you venture too far. I am excited for you.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom