Just drove my new bj60 home!

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splitbuseric

splitbuseric

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Feb 10, 2006
Threads
73
Messages
391
Location
Norfolk County, ON
Hi all,

I just picked up an '84 BJ60 from a fellow Mud member and cruised it home. 105km trip and the needle on the gas guage didn't even move! I hope it's not broke...LOL.. So far really impressed the truck ran great.. Its all stock for now and I just have some body work to do on the rear wheel wells and change the rear gate and bumper out where the truck was recently rear ended. The rest of the body is pretty solid, original paint. I will have to repair the pass rear corner as well due to the accident. Not real serious though...

Love the sound of that 3B cruising all the way home...

The owners manual says the gas tank is 90L but I was only able to squeeze 60L into it from empty. What size are they?

I guess there is some maintenance stuff I should do right away fluids etc...

Take Care

Eric
 
The fuel tank is indeed 90L.

A short trip will just move the fuel gauge off the pin, where it seems to sit for about 100 to 150 kms, then it moves through the range quite nicely until you get to the last 0.25 of the tank and then it slows down again. Once the needle drops below the E line (on most of them) you should find a diesel station. Don't run it out of fuel!!
 
welcome to the forum. for body and axle type stuff hit the 60 section up for info. For engine come here.

Cheers and enjoy that 3B
 
'The fuel tank is indeed 90L.'

Perhaps my sender is a little sticky as the truck hasn't been regularly driven for a few months. It was dead empty when I picked it up and I squeezed 60L in to it. I could see the fuel in the filler spout so I know it was full... Hmmmm, the guage did go right to full with the 60L. I guess I will figure it out when the tank gets low...With a 90L tank these vehicles must have a pretty decent cruising range!!!!

Today I am going to switch the tailgate and rear bumper off my '82 on to it so I don't get pulled over by the cops due to the accident damage.

Where is the best place to get new steel rear wheel arches? Or should I try the Gozzard Composite arches? He is local for me.... The rest of the truck is minor stuff with a couple of little patches here and there...

Here is the maintenance I am planning to do right away, let me know if I am missing anything...

The truck is all stock with 385Km on it....

oil change
axle fluid change
tranny fluid just done 20K ago with new clutch etc
check valve adjustment

funds are limited right now so I am only going do the basics.

Anything else I should do?

Thanks
Eric
 
Eric,
congrates

"dead empty" as in you needed to get a jerry can to fill it to start or the needle said dead empty?
the gauges in these units are POS to be honest. they give you an idea of how much fuel is remaining.
NEVER let the truck get down below 1/4 full. well that is my recommendation anyway. if you have sediment in the bottom you can suck this into the fuel system, not good.
always fill up at refueling stations where they move their diesel quickly...truck stops are usually good spots.
always run some fuel condtitioner in each tank of fuel...i recommend about 1/2" of Howels fuel treatment.
i have used Mike's arches in the past...very nice. stop by his shop, he has a grave yard of 60s.70s and 40s out back. he is very busy and can come across gruff but he is a great guy. i have been dealing with him for over a decade now, he has never steered me wrong.

compression test
thermostate and rad flush
those are bullet proof engines so as long as you don't over heat them they shuld be good for about 550,000 km before needing any serious work done... if the previous owner has maintained it well and if you do also then you might even break 700,000km...

cheers
 
befor eyou do the oil change run a can of seafoam into the crank case and drive for about 100km and then change the oil.
when you change the fuel filter, fill with a can of sea foam and then reinstall filled. pour the remaining fluid into the tank.
 
I would consider using the gozzard arch covers. But first I would cut out the rusted areas and sandblast the rust away in the diffferent spots. Then paint with POR-15 or rust bullet to seal the sandblasted body metal. Then use an epoxy type structural autobody glue to hold on the arches. Afterwards sealing the edges well so that no moisture could get in.


I am a little skeptical of using seafoam in the filter like that. Only because I did a return fuel seafom purge on a Mercedes diesel. Tonnes of carbon build up from inside the IP and nozzles comes loose. It then comes out of the return lines into the jug. So my feelings if you do the filling the filter purge you are just going to get junk free and then have have it return into the injection pump.

And because the filter(main filter) is pre injection pump, I think the junk will just continue on in an endless cycle thru the pump.

Best bet if the fuel injectors have not been serviced is to save up (300 bucks) and get it done when you can.
 
brownbear said:
I am a little skeptical of using seafoam in the filter like that. Only because I did a return fuel seafom purge on a Mercedes diesel. Tonnes of carbon build up from inside the IP and nozzles comes loose. It then comes out of the return lines into the jug. So my feelings if you do the filling the filter purge you are just going to get junk free and then have have it return into the injection pump.
.
Click to expand...

so you agree it works then... good
if it is returning to the tank then the junk will get caught in the filter for the next filter change...

filter, no endless cycle...

we have had very good luck with this maintainence proceedure...
 
So where can I get this seafoam stuff? To be honest I have never heard of it except on here. Crappy Tire?

The truck has been well maintained and by toyota dealers and land cruiser specialists, spending 1984 - 2003 in Calgary. I have most of the maintenance records. It appears to have been well care for, engine compartment and under body are quite clean.

As for the wheel arches I think I will contact Gozzard, but is there anywhere other than 4wheelauto to get the wheel arches? The rest of the truck is solid.

I got the rear hatch and gate switched over from my '82 today, still have to get the severely bent bumper switched out, but I ran out of grinding discs and energy as I spent all day outside in the freezing rain working on it.

I am thinking about painting it the beige colour or maybe olive drab, but the wife likes beige so you know..... Right now it is the factory dark brown....

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, love driving the diesel cruiser!!!

Eric
 
Also, why do folks always remove the factory roof racks? I think it would be handy for hauling the canoes.....

Thanks
Eric
 
splitbuseric said:
Also, why do folks always remove the factory roof racks? I think it would be handy for hauling the canoes.....

Thanks
Eric
Click to expand...

gutter mounted racks would be stronger since the factory ones mount to the roof with no addition support below...150 lbs max rating
 
'Napa


gutter mounted racks would be stronger since the factory ones mount to the roof with no addition support below...150 lbs max rating'



Thanks Wayne


Eric
 
crushers said:
so you agree it works then... good
if it is returning to the tank then the junk will get caught in the filter for the next filter change...

filter, no endless cycle...

we have had very good luck with this maintainence proceedure...
Click to expand...

In the case of a CDM BJ60 it does *not* return to the tank. The injector scavenger tubes return directly to the injector pump.
 
We just got seafoam here at Napa in Surrey BC. I have noticed my oil pressure that once was pegged at the high mark dropped a little with biodiesel. It then dropped a little more with seafoam in the oil to the middle marker and stayed there while idling. I wished I asked how long to have seafoam in the engine oil as what crushers said. I had it in there for 3/4 of a day before draining the oil and putting in 15w40. Next time will put in seafoam for 100k and let the carbon drop into the pan :) BTW, SOR has lots of front fenders for sale. Mine are rusting a the corner. Anyone know where I can get both inner/outer wheel wells for the rear part of my truck? What do all of you people think if I use a set of used but perfect condition wheel wells as a mold as a fiberglass replacment?
 
crushers said:
so you agree it works then... good
if it is returning to the tank then the junk will get caught in the filter for the next filter change...

filter, no endless cycle...

we have had very good luck with this maintainence proceedure...
Click to expand...

A said above I am refering to a 3B in a 60.

I need to take pictures of the crud that came out of the Bosch Injection pump on my little mercedes. It's awful.

I used a 3L jug with 2L's of seafoam in it, hooked two lines to the jug, one for inlet the other for outlet. I put the inlet just off the bottom of the jug. Outlet on the bottom. I had an inline clear fliter on the inlet line.

Started up and the cycle thru the jug started working. Ran for about 10mins, then I got tired set the jug up under the hood and went drivving on seafoam. Got back to the shop and opened the hood and idled till it sucked it down to the 1 inch form the bottom mark. Lots of carbon in the jug.

Then I replaced all the filters, they too looked nasty.
 
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