Just did SS brake lines from Slee! Nice!

[jditom]

Put them on last weekend with a syn brake fluid flush. Old fluid was only 1 year old (also syn). Beutiful looking and also shrink wraped in plastic.

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/products_drivetrain_brakes.htm

Lines went on easy if you have a inline wench so you do not crimp the bolt. When tightening the inline bolt make sure you put a wrench on the back side to hold it in place and get it tight enough.

I must admit I was not expecting much change but damn the padel fade/mush feeling is much improved. I say 20-30% firmer brake pedal.

Well worth it IMO

PS I just did the 4 main ones. If I lift it I will also do the 3 extended ones.

 

[4dmalamute]

This is very nice to know since I the exact same brake lines (from SLEE) sitting on the work bench. Just need to find time to put them in. They do look damn nice (like everything from SLEE really). Glad to hear the brakes seem firmer as well.

 

[Beowulf]

I must admit I was not expecting much change but damn the padel fade/mush feeling is much improved.

I experienced a noticeable improvement in pedal feel when going from 100k rubber brake lines to SS brake lines with a swap to Syn brake fluid done at the same time. It is hard to say which change accounted for the improved brake pedal but the combination of these 2 is a good mod.

-B-

 

[LandCrusher'70]

I also have Slee lines sitting on the bench. Figured I'd throw them on when I did the brakes.

Q: What is involved in adding synthetic fluid? Do you need to completely rid the system of the old stuff? Flush it in some manner?

 

[Doc]

I changed to the extended lines when I did my lift, not the 4 caliper lines. I didn't really notice any big change.

I did it for the peace of mind when articulating and swapping springs, rather than the performace side of it.

 

[jditom]

I experienced a noticeable improvement in pedal feel when going from 100k rubber brake lines to SS brake lines with a swap to Syn brake fluid done at the same time. It is hard to say which change accounted for the improved brake pedal but the combination of these 2 is a good mod.

-B-

Agree I have 117,000 miles on them old brake lines and I should have done it sooner

 

[NorCalSam]

Just ordered some a few days ago ....so thats good to here

 

[Brentbba]

Ordered all 7 from Christo last night along with his steel fridge slide. I think both the rear frame to axle and ps axle to caliper are just about shot as I've got a blackish water soluable liquid that appears on my driveway just occasionally right where these lines are. Only water soluable liquid I'm aware of in the cruiser is brake fluid. Mine is black as can be as it's 30,000 miles old and needs a good flush anyway. Tests out ok, but needs changing.

 

[Beowulf]

Q: What is involved in adding synthetic fluid? Do you need to completely rid the system of the old stuff? Flush it in some manner?

You need to bleed the system when replacing the brake lines so just bleed and keep adding fluid at each wheel until the brake fluid is clear. Repeat. LSPV is last.

-B-

 

[jditom]

I did a complete drain then changed my lines.
Flushed all 4 corners ( took a long time) then repeated all 4 (just a few pumps each) to make sure there was no air in system.

Since I have never drained and pulled off all 4 lines I was compulsive about the bleeding.

Only added 15 minutes to the job.

 

[lockd-97]

So even though our 80's have ABS, you bleed them like normal.....pass. rear, driv. rear, pass. front, driv. front, then lspv?

 

[Beowulf]

So even though our 80's have ABS, you bleed them like normal.....pass. rear, driv. rear, pass. front, driv. front, then lspv?

Yes, and that is the recommended bleeding sequence.
-B-

 

[lockd-97]

Gracias...

 

[madbomber]

Another thing to try before flushing each wheel is to remove all the old brake fluid from the master cylinder first, add the new stuff then bleed each wheel. Makes things a little faster. Plus you can clean out the master cylinder too. I used a turkey baster to pull out the old fluid. Cheap and easy. It also cuts down on the amount of air that gets in the lines. Just another option.

 

[Beowulf]

Another thing to try before flushing each wheel is to remove all the old brake fluid from the master cylinder first, add the new stuff then bleed each wheel. Makes things a little faster. Plus you can clean out the master cylinder too. I used a turkey baster to pull out the old fluid. Cheap and easy. It also cuts down on the amount of air that gets in the lines. Just another option.

Yes, and I forgot to mention this above. It will speed the replacement of the brake fluid.

( Font color = Lemonchiffon ? ? ? ? )

-B-

 

[Hants]

Hmmmm, I was taught to bleed nearest to the MC to the farthest... Front Driver, Front Passenger, LSPV, Rear Driver, Rear Passenger.

Just checked the FSM: lockd-97 has it right.

I'll go crawl back under my rock now.

 

[Skillet]

I have all of the lines, I just have not put them on because I cannot get the old ones off.

I tried everything, PB blaster, etc. I am scared I will trash the actual hard line if I twist any harder.

I am not even in a salty / corosive area.

Any suggestions?

 

[sleeoffroad]

FWIW, if you do screw up the hardline section, they are really not that expensive from Toyota. Sometimes pain to install due to routing.

 

[Beowulf]

Any suggestions?

Are you using a quality line wrench? Mine are Craftsman and I have heard that Snap-On makes a good set; spendy as one would expect.

-B-

 

[teejnut]

Are you using a quality line wrench? Mine are Craftsman and I have heard that Snap-On makes a good set; spendy as one would expect.

-B-

What size flare nut wrench do we need?