just bought a 96 80.... (1 Viewer)

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Bolingbroke, Georgia
Picked up a bone stock, leaking everywhere, nasty and stinky interior, 1996 80 series Landcruiser. No lockers, new tires. 347k miles. this was a mall cart, grocery getter that appears to never have been off road. interior is shot, power steering leaking, prob oil leaking too, nasty on engine front and all the way back underneath.

I plan to service birfields, change power steering pump, gearbox and hoses, change oil pump o ring, front main seal, t stat and Gasket, heater switch thing on firewall, all heater hoses, all coolant hoses, all vac lines, drain and replace ALL fluids, new brake liners. repair power seats and recover front seats, replace all carpet, ditch the jump seats, and after all this.... look into a 2 to 3" lift.

am i mis"S"ing anything important?
 
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Picked up a bone stock, leaking everywhere, nasty and stinky interior, 1996 80 series Landcruiser. No lockers, new tires. 347k miles. this was a mall cart, grocery getter that appears to never have been off road. interior is shot, power steering leaking, prob oil leaking too, nasty on engine front and all the way back underneath.

I plan to service birfields, change power steering pump, gearbox and hoses, change oil pump o ring, front main seal, t stat and Gasket, heater switch thing on firewall, all heater hoses, all coolant hoses, all vac lines, drain and replace ALL fluids, new brake liners. repair power seats and recover front seats, replace all carpet, ditch the jump seats, and after all this.... look into a 2 to 3" lift.

am i mising anything important?
Yep.

Gasoline.

Drive it!
 
and after all this.... look into a 2 to 3" lift.

am i mising anything important?
Hmmm, you act like you've done this before. lol

Bolingbroke? Exit 9 off 475? Or what used to be exit 9 anyways.
 
Beef jerky and your favorite soda.
 
Hmmm, you act like you've done this before. lol

Bolingbroke? Exit 9 off 475? Or what used to be exit 9 anyways.
exit 15 now,
now, looking for a fuel trailer in matching colors.

i have found if you go ahead and address the prone to fail due to age, items, there is alot less heartburn out on the road.
 
I didn’t see you mention valve cover gasket and spark plug tube gaskets. Plugs, distributor, plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, radiator if it’s original…I’m sure there’s more
 
Yes, Cupholders and one of those little Christmas Tree air fresheners that hang from the review mirror.

Oh, and another "s" :flipoff2:
9
I didn’t see you mention valve cover gasket and spark plug tube gaskets. Plugs, distributor, plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, radiator if it’s original…I’m sure there’s more
got plugs, wires, cap and rotor on order.....crossing fingers on radiator and heater core.
 
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Compression test, leak down test, block test (combustion leak test) and any other test you can think of to see if you’re gonna tear off all your new parts when the head gasket finally goes. 🤞
 
Picked up a bone stock, leaking everywhere, nasty and stinky interior, 1996 80 series Landcruiser. No lockers, new tires. 347k miles. this was a mall cart, grocery getter that appears to never have been off road. interior is shot, power steering leaking, prob oil leaking too, nasty on engine front and all the way back underneath.

I plan to service birfields, change power steering pump, gearbox and hoses, change oil pump o ring, front main seal, t stat and Gasket, heater switch thing on firewall, all heater hoses, all coolant hoses, all vac lines, drain and replace ALL fluids, new brake liners. repair power seats and recover front seats, replace all carpet, ditch the jump seats, and after all this.... look into a 2 to 3" lift.

am i mis"S"ing anything important?
Do you know if the top end is original? If not you might wanna do the valve stem seals as well and check for leaks at the head/block interface.

Please post some pictures when you can!
 
Do you know if the top end is original? If not you might wanna do the valve stem seals as well and check for leaks at the head/block interface.

Please post some pictures when you can!
I have not been in a hurry getting this road ready. I have repaired seat gears and about to get them recovered. Next was a headliner and carpet kit. HOWEVER, today I decided to do the plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor button and get a list of parts for the hoses. Well, plug #6 moved the output hose on the heater valve....just a little, and it broke completely off. There was a new hose clamp on it, so, I suspect the PO found a leak there and thought a hose clamp would fix it. I am definitely bypassing the rear heater. I think I can close off (solder closed) the "Y" on the DS and found an elbow curved hose on YouTube that will connect from firewall to the waterpump bypass tube.

Nonetheless, that was the updated plan for today, and getting the oem screw band/clamp things off was not fun. It took an hour to get all of the hoses off.

I hope to get the new hoses this week.
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Bruh, a pressure wash pre-dig would have a been a thing to do. lol
Hope your hoses come in. Shoddy shipping of anything these days.
 
I have not been in a hurry getting this road ready. I have repaired seat gears and about to get them recovered. Next was a headliner and carpet kit. HOWEVER, today I decided to do the plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor button and get a list of parts for the hoses. Well, plug #6 moved the output hose on the heater valve....just a little, and it broke completely off. There was a new hose clamp on it, so, I suspect the PO found a leak there and thought a hose clamp would fix it. I am definitely bypassing the rear heater. I think I can close off (solder closed) the "Y" on the DS and found an elbow curved hose on YouTube that will connect from firewall to the waterpump bypass tube.

Nonetheless, that was the updated plan for today, and getting the oem screw band/clamp things off was not fun. It took an hour to get all of the hoses off.

I hope to get the new hoses this week. View attachment 2964271

View attachment 2964270

Don't solder anything closed.

Get the rear heater bypass kit from Wits' End ( @NLXTACY ), as it's easy.

The clamps you need for the front heater and those hoses are P/N 90467-21010. Easy to install constant tension factory clamps (the squeeze kind, not the pin kind)

The upper heater hoses are from the kit or 5/8" hoses.

The lower ones that go to the rear heater are 1/2" hoses and need a worm gear clamp or a different part number than above. I have not confirmed the number yet.
 
Don't solder anything closed.

Get the rear heater bypass kit from Wits' End ( @NLXTACY ), as it's easy.

The clamps you need for the front heater and those hoses are P/N 90467-21010. Easy to install constant tension factory clamps (the squeeze kind, not the pin kind)

The upper heater hoses are from the kit or 5/8" hoses.

The lower ones that go to the rear heater are 1/2" hoses and need a worm gear clamp or a different part number than above. I have not confirmed the number yet.
the "pesky" heater hose p/n is 99556-30100
the hose attaching to "u" shaped tubing from heater valve to the tubing going down to the "pesky" hose is 87245-60480

I have a rigged bypass on the way. total cost about $20 for curved hose.

i will look into kit.
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that was after a 45 min pressure wash....

here are some pics of the finished.

the last pic is the part number for a hose that you trim to fit. to go into firewall. behind the heater valve.
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product
 
So — long term — thinking, are you happy enough with the 1FZ in it to invest alot to everything valvecover -to- lower oilpan, or is a motor swap anything on the horizon for you?

You didn’t mention it, and if the 347K has been kind / not puking the HG or needing a block bore via compression #’s -great!

But if you have bigger plans, I don’t want to give advice like ignition wires & cap / rotor if the motor is bound to be swapped down the line.
 
347k usually means the best of the life is in the past. a 5.3 ls swap sounds like a good idea..... maybe, but, I will prob keep the drive train mostly stock unless I get an itch that cannot be scratched orherwise.
 
347k usually means the best of the life is in the past. a 5.3 ls swap sounds like a good idea..... maybe, but, I will prob keep the drive train mostly stock unless I get an itch that cannot be scratched orherwise.

-See, this is my divide.

If a LS swap is a monetary advantage over the 1FZ, we need to talk your path & length of ownership.

A 5.3 or 6.2 (whatever you choose, even a 2UZ) - what are we doing?

Are you committed to the 1FZ or is it “kinda crapped” & you want either to full refresh the 1FZ or do you want a swap motor for the TQ curve?

——No shame, just asking now before we refresh a motor that doesn’t fit your use / lifestyle.

I’ve had 3 ‘97 80’s - I tow my boat w/ the Craptundra since it has both the TQ & esp the brakes…..I’m open to swap work to make a 80 even better as I was in ‘full denial’ until I had to take my boat into metro traffic of Seattle.

A 80 can’t do 5K# in metro traffic - not in stock configuration.

:meh:
 

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