Thought I had dodged this last year when the cammo truck was showing signs of being hot on occasion. The PO had definitely put Bars Stop Leak in the system before I purchased it. Cleaned that out as best I could and then ran straight water for a while, then did Blue Devil sealer and all was well for several months and a few thousand miles. Was driving to a friends house and felt the idle stumble when I pulled in and saw the temp on the ScanGauge was 204*F, shut it off and left it for several hours. Saw some coolant dripping from the exhaust and had it towed home.
After a few days I have repair parts on the way now and got the truck off the 37" tires and onto the 28" tires so it fits in the garage. I had to remove the spacers too, but such is life. Now it just looks ridiculous.
Finally ready to get started and realize I have some questions before I start digging in:
Is there a method to depressurizing the fuel system?
Does the AC system need to be evacuated and disassembled if the engine is pulled?
How are people reaching the top 2 bolts on the transmission? I can't even get a hand up there with the 1" body lift.
I have a 1 ton engine stand, a 2 ton hoist (arm style) and a spare 1fz-fe already in the garage. The spare engine was working when removed, but it is unknown if any of the seals were already replaced or not (main front, oil pump, valve cover, water pump) and all of that has already been done on the engine in the cammo truck now.
I think I have just enough clearance in my garage to pull the engine straight up if that is an option. 8'6" to the bottom of the I-beam.
I just bought this unit on Amazon that is 10" tall with 1 ton capacity. If the AC system needs to be opened I will have plenty of room once the radiator and condenser are out. The radiator has to come out anyway so I can adjust the mounts to correct for the body lift and fit the shroud back on.
Vestil LOW-2G Geared Low Headroom Combination Chain Hoist/Trolley, 2000 lbs Capacity, 2-1/2"- 8" I-Beam Flange
I've read up on several threads and was hoping to see if there were and ideas to make things more simple or easy (since I'm hella lazy). Any help or insight is appreciated and the FSM and OTRAMM vids should give me a real solid guide once I get the head out of the truck, it's getting to that point that's stressing me out.
After a few days I have repair parts on the way now and got the truck off the 37" tires and onto the 28" tires so it fits in the garage. I had to remove the spacers too, but such is life. Now it just looks ridiculous.
Finally ready to get started and realize I have some questions before I start digging in:
Is there a method to depressurizing the fuel system?
Does the AC system need to be evacuated and disassembled if the engine is pulled?
How are people reaching the top 2 bolts on the transmission? I can't even get a hand up there with the 1" body lift.
I have a 1 ton engine stand, a 2 ton hoist (arm style) and a spare 1fz-fe already in the garage. The spare engine was working when removed, but it is unknown if any of the seals were already replaced or not (main front, oil pump, valve cover, water pump) and all of that has already been done on the engine in the cammo truck now.
I think I have just enough clearance in my garage to pull the engine straight up if that is an option. 8'6" to the bottom of the I-beam.
I just bought this unit on Amazon that is 10" tall with 1 ton capacity. If the AC system needs to be opened I will have plenty of room once the radiator and condenser are out. The radiator has to come out anyway so I can adjust the mounts to correct for the body lift and fit the shroud back on.
Vestil LOW-2G Geared Low Headroom Combination Chain Hoist/Trolley, 2000 lbs Capacity, 2-1/2"- 8" I-Beam Flange
I've read up on several threads and was hoping to see if there were and ideas to make things more simple or easy (since I'm hella lazy). Any help or insight is appreciated and the FSM and OTRAMM vids should give me a real solid guide once I get the head out of the truck, it's getting to that point that's stressing me out.