Just a little reminder

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I noticed a very slight 'grrrrr' on acceleration in the '99. Decided I'd try and grease the u-joints to see if that would take care of it. Did the rear driveshaft first, all went well. Didn't take much grease at all to get them full. Went to the front and realized I'd have to take off the plastic splash guard to get access to the front u-joint. That very front u-joint actually took 3 times more grease to fill than the others leading me to believe that the dealership that maintained this 40k mile Cruiser probably had never greased that very front u-joint. The 'grrrr' went away and all is well.:cheers: We 'heart' our 100 series!!!
 
Yeah, was curious if there was any other way to get at that thing without taking the plastic cover off. Guess not, Thanks for the heads up....i greased all the others recently, but didnt feel like dealing with that front one.
 
It's six 12 mm bolts, and i put some anti-sieze on the bolts on the way back in.
 
another easy way to remove the splash, fiber/cardboard , psueudo skid plate is to drive thru deep mud and then circle back around and find it laying on the ground. Easier then removing bolts and you don't even need to climb under..:rolleyes:

Someone please make a real skid plate for the belly of these rigs:D
 
Yeah. That's why I do my own service. It can be a bear to get to that front zerk, but it beats replacing the u-joint. You can almost reach it through the oil drane access "plat" but not quite. It's any easy thing to do, considering the downside.
 
Yeah, was curious if there was any other way to get at that thing without taking the plastic cover off. Guess not, Thanks for the heads up....i greased all the others recently, but didnt feel like dealing with that front one.

I'm sure that's what his tech at the dealer thought too! Gotta remove the plate for stuff like that. For a coolant drain, it's double the PITA 'cause you gotta remove both plates! Just think how much that plastic plate would weight if it were steel...you could get crushed by it!
 
i would rather it be steel. Thats why they make stands to hold things up when you are working underneath a car.
 
I noticed a very slight 'grrrrr' on acceleration in the '99. Decided I'd try and grease the u-joints to see if that would take care of it. Did the rear driveshaft first, all went well. Didn't take much grease at all to get them full. Went to the front and realized I'd have to take off the plastic splash guard to get access to the front u-joint. That very front u-joint actually took 3 times more grease to fill than the others leading me to believe that the dealership that maintained this 40k mile Cruiser probably had never greased that very front u-joint. The 'grrrr' went away and all is well.:cheers: We 'heart' our 100 series!!!

Hi Elijah,

Being a newbie DIYer, this is something I have wanted to do myself. I read a loooooooong thread in the 80s board a while back about what is and is not the proper way to do the greasing. However, there was so much information there that I do not think I know any more than before.

Is this simple enough that you can provide instructions for? Or is there a FSM number that you are aware of for it?
 
Hi Elijah,

Being a newbie DIYer, this is something I have wanted to do myself. I read a loooooooong thread in the 80s board a while back about what is and is not the proper way to do the greasing. However, there was so much information there that I do not think I know any more than before.

Is this simple enough that you can provide instructions for? Or is there a FSM number that you are aware of for it?

Actually it is very simple.
Put blocks behind front wheels. Put transmission and transfer case in neutral. Make sure e-brake is not applied. Jack up rear end and put stands underneath axle, just enough so tires aren't contacting ground. With tires off the ground you will now be able to rotate the driveshaft till you can get your grease gun on to the zerk fittings. Pump enough grease into the u-joint to make a bit of the old grease come out of the rubber seals. Remember there is a front and rear u-joint on each driveshaft. Also make sure to grease the zerk that is on the driveshaft itself that lubes the splines inside of the shaft. Remove jack stands and repeat on the front end. Put blocks behind rear wheels and jack up front, etc. You'll have to take off the plastic splash guard which is only six 12 mm bolts, no big deal. Then just repeat what you did for the rear. You'll be fine, it's only a :banana: job. :cheers:
 
Actually it is very simple.
Put blocks behind front wheels. Put transmission and transfer case in neutral. Make sure e-brake is not applied. Jack up rear end and put stands underneath axle, just enough so tires aren't contacting ground. With tires off the ground you will now be able to rotate the driveshaft till you can get your grease gun on to the zerk fittings. Pump enough grease into the u-joint to make a bit of the old grease come out of the rubber seals. Remember there is a front and rear u-joint on each driveshaft. Also make sure to grease the zerk that is on the driveshaft itself that lubes the splines inside of the shaft. Remove jack stands and repeat on the front end. Put blocks behind rear wheels and jack up front, etc. You'll have to take off the plastic splash guard which is only six 12 mm bolts, no big deal. Then just repeat what you did for the rear. You'll be fine, it's only a :banana: job. :cheers:

Thanks for the directions. I will be doing these at some point.
 

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