- Thread starter
- #21
Sorry, do you mean pull the block from the frame or is there an actual block drain? I assume you don't mean the radiator drain. I'm guessing it's on the passenger side of the block
Just a little corrosion (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter msahr
- Start date
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Sorry, do you mean pull the block from the frame or is there an actual block drain? I assume you don't mean the radiator drain. I'm guessing it's on the passenger side of the block
- Thread starter
- #22
Top of the tstat housing after I removed the upper radiator hose fitting
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Block drain is on driver's side below the exhaust manifold and just aft of where the oil pressure sensor is.
brian
SILVER Star
Vinegar works great at taking light rust off steel...this is not a job for it.
If you're serious about it, hot tanking it is going to be only way to get all that chunky flaky crap out of it...otherwise you'll be fighting hot and overheating issues forever.
That last pic...is a 2f head..
If you're serious about it, hot tanking it is going to be only way to get all that chunky flaky crap out of it...otherwise you'll be fighting hot and overheating issues forever.
That last pic...is a 2f head..
- Thread starter
- #25
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
That is not a 67 F135 or 68 F145 intake. Not the original would put much less work in getting it flushed and running. I have a 1960 FJ25, 1965 FJ45 and 1970 FJ40 with early 2Fs installed before I bought them.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
That’s it. Don’t be surprised if when you pull the plug nothing comes out and/or it’s seriously plugged. If plugged you can use wire or pick or whatever to poke and scrap as much of the crap out. If you get the other end(s) opened (e.g. thermostat housing) a bit you can use compressed air to help clear the motor‘s bowels of crud along with the chemical warfare!
Yeah, this motor may not be worth the effort, but on my rig I wasn’t going to let time and indifference win over! My motor may still be junk, but it runs , and it runs because I made it run! Good ‘nuf for this boy scout.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
I’ve used vinegar on lots of cast iron parts to remove rust. I’d be tanking this one. As Mark pointed out, what can’t you see? Cylinders could be corroded and firing it up could blow them out and toast everything That may still be usable.
If you do flush and use vinegar, I think you want to leave freeze plugs in initially otherwise you can’t fill the block.
If you do flush and use vinegar, I think you want to leave freeze plugs in initially otherwise you can’t fill the block.
You will be fighting a lot of clogged radiators along the way, as you clean that out. I fired up a2F stored for 10 years) that had minor inside rust (visible through the cooling system). After a month or two, my FJ40 was overheating on the highway, and the rust chunks had clogged my tired old radiator. I shudder to think how much crap will be shed into your cooling system over the next year or two as you heat cycle and drive that engine. I would never toss a running engine, but you might have to resort to drastic cleaning measures and perhaps install a coolant filter for the time being.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
I’m running one continuously just for this purpose.
- Thread starter
- #31
I have evaporust soaking in the block right now. Turns out it's a 2F, which is cool, and another reason to try and save it. I'm pretty much ready to pull it and have it tanked and reassemble it. Kinda concerned about rust attacking the cylinders from the outside.
Engine number 2F 235753
The stories on this rig must be crazy.
Engine number 2F 235753
The stories on this rig must be crazy.
mrboatman
GOLD Star
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Pull the spark plugs and see what you can see of the cylinder was. Think a cheap camera are available to inspect them. It the cylinder walls are rusted your looking at sleeving the cylinders or over size pistons. Figure the expensive before throwing too much money in a engine not worth it.
A thread at the top of the 40/55 section can get a good idea of how old the 2F. As I remember it is also cast in the block and the head.
A thread at the top of the 40/55 section can get a good idea of how old the 2F. As I remember it is also cast in the block and the head.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
LONG POST!
First understand I know jack about 40's but am guessing the engine is an all cast iron diesel? Or at least all cast iron, if it has an aluminium head stop reading and pull the head! Before doing anything else I would get the engine to run, if petrol no more than a minute without water, this would allow you to confirm that it actually works, if diesel it is no problem for three minutes as they run pretty cold at idle. So rig up a temporary clean fuel supply and change the oil and filter as that will be like tar in the sump and for the moment remove the air filter and look for rats nests and wasps (I live in the country so know what you might find), now see if the engine starts and runs, if it does only then consider whether you want to move forward, the fact that the engine turns indicate no or very little rust in the bores, if there is then the aluminium pistons will be finished Assuming it starts but has a little misfire then see what is causing that, remember to give the engine a minimum of half an hour between runs to allow it to cool off. You can do this with no water or water pump so don't sweat it. Depending on results only then consider moving forward, as per previous comments about freezing, a cracked block/head/cylinder are a distinct possibility, so far you have spent out for just an oil and filter.
Assuming all seems well pull the rocker cover and check the valve gear has been oiled ok, only now would I consider to start try to get the cooling system clean, you may get different results using different products but a good choice is something we use in Spain called 'Aqua Fuerte' it translates to strong water. Now this stuff is a little vicious so use eye protection glasses and rubber gloves, it dissolves rust as if it is not there however you CANNOT leave it in the block too long. The advantage is you can squirt it into the holes (it comes here in plastic bottles with a nozzle like a washing up liquid bottle,) where you removed the core plugs, they will be toast anyway, by using the agua fuerte you get to see (and hear) it working. At most I would leave it in there about thirty minutes before flushing with water, repeat again after the water has drained. I would disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core if the heater has not gone it will be if the agua fuerte gets to it the tubes being so thing, but checking the hoses are clear and are clean and then join the one going into the block (normally the lowest) to a hose pipe and block the other one off (an old spark plug and jubilee clip normally work here), some engines like to air lock if the heater valve is not open when refilling. but doing this you have bypassed the heater matrix/water valve and prevented an air lock. So now pay out for a water pump and fit it, the thermostat housing can wait as you only need to restrict the flow enough to keep the block/head full of water. With everything flushed out go for it, so far an oil and filter and a water pump. Now you can run the engine for as long as you like as the flow from the hose will keep it cool, note do not do this on your drive, the mess is going to be difficult to clean up!
If all is well then block off the thermostat housing and the block filled up again I would remove all spark plugs or glow plugs and leave it all overnight, if the water has gone down then find out where it has gone, a pipe cleaner dipped into the spark/glow plug holes will reveal water if there is any? Now you can make dissensions as to the way forward, cost has been kept to a minimum thus far.
Now the alternative, pull the head and core plugs and have a bloody good look, the head gasket may be close to gone anyway and the waterways may also be corroded to hell, this will save a lot of time faffing about, and you get to check the cylinders down to as far as you can, oh and that radiator....bin it without question.
If you have been around engines as long as I have (over 50 years) you can consider the above advice sound and with lot's of experience behind it.
Regards
Dave
First understand I know jack about 40's but am guessing the engine is an all cast iron diesel? Or at least all cast iron, if it has an aluminium head stop reading and pull the head! Before doing anything else I would get the engine to run, if petrol no more than a minute without water, this would allow you to confirm that it actually works, if diesel it is no problem for three minutes as they run pretty cold at idle. So rig up a temporary clean fuel supply and change the oil and filter as that will be like tar in the sump and for the moment remove the air filter and look for rats nests and wasps (I live in the country so know what you might find), now see if the engine starts and runs, if it does only then consider whether you want to move forward, the fact that the engine turns indicate no or very little rust in the bores, if there is then the aluminium pistons will be finished Assuming it starts but has a little misfire then see what is causing that, remember to give the engine a minimum of half an hour between runs to allow it to cool off. You can do this with no water or water pump so don't sweat it. Depending on results only then consider moving forward, as per previous comments about freezing, a cracked block/head/cylinder are a distinct possibility, so far you have spent out for just an oil and filter.
Assuming all seems well pull the rocker cover and check the valve gear has been oiled ok, only now would I consider to start try to get the cooling system clean, you may get different results using different products but a good choice is something we use in Spain called 'Aqua Fuerte' it translates to strong water. Now this stuff is a little vicious so use eye protection glasses and rubber gloves, it dissolves rust as if it is not there however you CANNOT leave it in the block too long. The advantage is you can squirt it into the holes (it comes here in plastic bottles with a nozzle like a washing up liquid bottle,) where you removed the core plugs, they will be toast anyway, by using the agua fuerte you get to see (and hear) it working. At most I would leave it in there about thirty minutes before flushing with water, repeat again after the water has drained. I would disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core if the heater has not gone it will be if the agua fuerte gets to it the tubes being so thing, but checking the hoses are clear and are clean and then join the one going into the block (normally the lowest) to a hose pipe and block the other one off (an old spark plug and jubilee clip normally work here), some engines like to air lock if the heater valve is not open when refilling. but doing this you have bypassed the heater matrix/water valve and prevented an air lock. So now pay out for a water pump and fit it, the thermostat housing can wait as you only need to restrict the flow enough to keep the block/head full of water. With everything flushed out go for it, so far an oil and filter and a water pump. Now you can run the engine for as long as you like as the flow from the hose will keep it cool, note do not do this on your drive, the mess is going to be difficult to clean up!
If all is well then block off the thermostat housing and the block filled up again I would remove all spark plugs or glow plugs and leave it all overnight, if the water has gone down then find out where it has gone, a pipe cleaner dipped into the spark/glow plug holes will reveal water if there is any? Now you can make dissensions as to the way forward, cost has been kept to a minimum thus far.
Now the alternative, pull the head and core plugs and have a bloody good look, the head gasket may be close to gone anyway and the waterways may also be corroded to hell, this will save a lot of time faffing about, and you get to check the cylinders down to as far as you can, oh and that radiator....bin it without question.
If you have been around engines as long as I have (over 50 years) you can consider the above advice sound and with lot's of experience behind it.
Regards
Dave
I took all of the replaceable parts off of mine and blocked it upward using old hoses and poured evapo rust inside the block from the waterpump inlet. Let it sit for a good while until it had a chance to break it down real nice. Then rigged a pump to it and flushed the sucker real good.
Got all the new parts in and I plan on doing one last good flush using thermocure.
Got all the new parts in and I plan on doing one last good flush using thermocure.
joseywales
Renaissance Redneck
Any updates, or is it too hot to work on these days?
- Thread starter
- #37
Lots going on so not much updates. It's not really that hot until around 8AM. I did determine that the engine is free, was able to spin it, then hooked up a battery and cranked it for a few seconds. This was after some more MMO in each cylinder. Ran compression checks on all cylinders: 140, 125, 120. 125, 120, 130. I'm planning to see if I can get it to run next week.
joseywales
Renaissance Redneck
Those numbers look good. Fingers crossed for you.
