Juanita - Slow & Steady (1 Viewer)

[John Staton]

Is it the same part number for an H55h?
Been recently have similar issues shifting at a standstill. Put in 2nd to get to 1st. 5th before R. Sometimes feathering clutch to get into R.
Sorry for the high jack.
Belated Congrats again in the 60.

Boerboel313- I have a new H55 installed. All put together by Valley Hybrids and I am less than 1000 miles in so still breaking it in. I have to sometimes put it into 2nd to slide it up into first and also feather the clutch to get into R. On occasion it will go right into R but mostly have to feather it in.....why do you think I have to do that?....its a brand new H55.

 

[cps432]

Alright, so a little update. I got the oil cooler removed, new gaskets, hoses, clamps, and everything put back where it needs to go without a hitch or any leaks, so, despite the novice level of the repair, I'm gonna chalk it up as a victory.

That gave enough wind to my sails to go ahead and tackle my as-of-late squishy brakes. I bought a brake bleeder/vacuum gauge a few months ago, so I was confident i could make quick work of it. I went through the checks in the FSM and decided to go ahead and bleed my brakes. I got the PS rear done fine but when I went to do the DS rear, I couldn't get the bleeder plug to turn. I didn't want to strip it, so I called it for the day and here I sit.

Now my brake pedal goes to the floor with minimal resistance and hardly engages. Is this something better served for a professional? I mean, brakes are fairly important, right?

Go getcha some crows feet from oreily. They’ll save your ass more than you’ll know. I think they call them flare nut wrenches. Worst case scenario, replace the drum cylinders. 2 bolts and a few minutes and you have brand new ones for peace of mind. And they’re like 15 bucks a piece from rock auto.

 

[batthewmrown]

I'm gonna go ahead and officially change this from my introduction thread to my build thread. Not that I'd consider Juanita "built" in the sense that she's lifted, locked, and swapped, but that she had s*** go wrong with her and I, with nothing more than the majesty of this forum and Youtube, have successfully put her back together again. Also, I installed my first OME component, so she's at least a small percentage built, right? The main thing for me was taking the step from a 60 owner who waxed poetically about how simple they are and how it's easy to fix things that break on them but had really only taken it to someone else to do the work, to an owner that is slowly learning this beast inside and out.

So I rebuilt my rear drum brakes, which wasn't hard. Tedious, maybe. I had to do it in the driveway with left-over ice and snow to contend with. I fully rebuilt them with new cylinders, shoes, and springs; the works. Cleaned and lubed the contact points with anti-sieze. I even wire-wheeled and painted my drums. Nobody will notice but me and that's fine. I also put in a new master cylinder, which was a cinch. And it all works. Victory.

Here's the old:

And the new:

Sexy ass drums:

I don't know for sure if my steering stabilizer was shot. I wanted free shipping, so I just ordered it to put me over the threshold. I'm fairly certain it was the original, so I figured it was time. It was a super simple install. I even got to use my blowtorch to get the old stuck bolts to come out. Hell yeah.

Ugly:

Damn, girl:

I was also able to install a new shifter seat. Seems like it's helped alleviate any resistance when trying to shift. **** that carpet and four bolts though, holy hell. By far the hardest thing about that job is just getting the damn shifter boots off and back on again. Anyway, I did it. Somehow.

That's it for now. There may be an upcoming galley plug repair and some new shocks as I try and piece together my OME lift as funds allow. Thank you all for your help and wisdom. The Internet will no doubt go down as mankind's worst and greatest creation.

 

[batthewmrown]

Easily added 10 HP today.

 

[batthewmrown]

Well, since I haven't updated this in a year, I guess it's due time. I've been back and forth from CO to KY and done plenty to the 60. I'm still in the process of repairing the important stuff as time/money allow. Since I last checked in, I've done front brakes and new shocks all around.

New clutch line/master/release cylinder.

I even got real domestic and sewed up a sweet little e-brake dust boot one boring-ass quarantine day. I made it out of an old Army duffel bag I had laying around.

 

[batthewmrown]

I did a little rust repair on my worst spot. Brushed it down and then sprayed it with some Ospho and then heaps of Fluid Film. I've still gotta attack it from inside the panel, but hopefully that keeps it at bay for the time being. @wngrog, thanks for your guidance.

My hood bumpers were roached out and doing no good. It isn't a permanent solution but some old shock bushings are filling in nicely.

So that leads us to today when I started in on my manifold gasket replacement. Got as far as getting the carb removed, which was exactly what I wanted to get done today. Intake looks nice and clean, so I'm thankful for that. On the other hand, PO looks to have used a whole tube of RTV, so I'm looking forward to scraping all that crap off. I've officially got all my parts in, so, barring any major snags, I should have some progress to report.

Also, as everyone has said since the beginning of time...**** those 4 carb mounting bolts. Jesus.

 

[batthewmrown]

A little more progress today. Air rail is off and intact. 5 of the 6 mounting bolts were able to unscrew by hand. Not sure if that's thanks to heaps of PB blaster or if that's been the case. Either way, for removals sake, it was best case scenario. Realized that I'm going to have to remove the vacuum manifold, thanks to @lcolon. Not exactly looking forward to that spaghetti wrangling fest, but maybe I'll get the balls to do that tomorrow. Until then...

 

[batthewmrown]

Well s*** yeah, y'all. Got my manifold off today with no issues. It's in remarkably good shape. Got a look in at the butterfly valve and heat insulator and it's in ship shape. I had no indication that it had been separated before but the insulator looks new so idk. It is, however, dirty and somewhat rusty. Would I be insane to split the two and have them vapor blasted and replace the gaskets in between? Either way, here's some photos.

Definitely see where the leak was coming from.

 

[OG SUV]

Dude awesome video thanks for the laughs ! Beer is key! Cheers!

 

[batthewmrown]

Small update on the manifold job. Took it to the local Toyota shop down the street to use their straight edge and it checked out. Well within spec across the whole thing and the heat riser gaskets and insulator look to be in excellent shape. Part of me thinks that maybe this manifold was replaced when they were still available new, but either way, I'm not not going to split it even though I bought the parts to replace those gaskets and the riser. I guess I'll just squirrel them away for when they go extinct. Anyway, spending today cleaning up the mating surfaces and some gentle wire wheeling on the intake to make it shine.

Before:

After:

On to the next step. New studs, etc. Do you guys use any threadlocker on the manifold or carb mount studs?

 

[cps432]

Small update on the manifold job. Took it to the local Toyota shop down the street to use their straight edge and it checked out. Well within spec across the whole thing and the heat riser gaskets and insulator look to be in excellent shape. Part of me thinks that maybe this manifold was replaced when they were still available new, but either way, I'm not not going to split it even though I bought the parts to replace those gaskets and the riser. I guess I'll just squirrel them away for when they go extinct. Anyway, spending today cleaning up the mating surfaces and some gentle wire wheeling on the intake to make it shine.

Before:View attachment 2285294

After:
View attachment 2285302

On to the next step. New studs, etc. Do you guys use any threadlocker on the manifold or carb mount studs?

I didn’t. I think it would burn off anyhow. And think about the next time you’ve gotta take that stuff apart if it does in fact hold up to the heat...

 

[batthewmrown]

I didn’t. I think it would burn off anyhow. And think about the next time you’ve gotta take that stuff apart if it does in fact hold up to the heat...

I figured I'd just hit it with some copper anti-sieze and call it good.

 

[batthewmrown]

Well, I got her put back together and fired up, so success there. However, it sounds like I’ve still got an exhaust leak. Even worse than before, actually. When accelerating, there’s a nice clicking noise, like I’ve got a baseball card in my spokes. Speeds up with the RPMs. Is there anything else it could be?

I torqued manifold bolts to spec in the correct order, or at least I think I did. I remember seeing somewhere on here that the manifold bolts Toyota sells now are slightly longer and may be bottoming out. Is that so?

I put new exhaust studs on as well, so I guess I’ll try and hit those with the impact driver and snug them up more.

Also, how the hell do I reattach the clamshell that goes over the power steering box and secured into the frame rail? Anyone ever gotten that fiddly little bolt to go where it was originally?

 

[SteveH]

Check your EGR tube gasket on the bottom of the exh. manifold. To do this, start the engine cold and put your fingers up to that area and see if you feel exhaust coming out around that flange.

 

[batthewmrown]

Check your EGR tube gasket on the bottom of the exh. manifold. To do this, start the engine cold and put your fingers up to that area and see if you feel exhaust coming out around that flange.

Pretty sure that's what it was. I guess in my excitement I forgot to snug them up all the way because they had several turns still left in them. Ran it around the block and that seems to have fixed it.

 

[batthewmrown]

Here's a funny story.

When I was doing my manifold gasket, I decided I'd pop my thermostat housing and see what was going on under there and how it looked. I undid the 4 bolts holding on the upper housing and couldn't seem to get it to come off. No big deal. I haven't had any issues overheating, so I wasn't stressed.

What I forgot to do, however, was retorque those 4 bolts, so when I went for drive that got the engine up to temp, the pressure blew the upper housing off and my engine started to overheat. I was able to limp home where I discovered that the P.O. had only used some black gasket maker instead of actually installing the $4 gasket. Needless to say, replacing the $4 gasket led to deciding to replace thermostat, hoses, bolts, clamps, etc. Basically, @mattressking's engine bay shamed me into spending a lot of money. I try to be a glass half full sort of guy, so I'm just feeling fortunate that I'll have the peace of mind to know that's all properly installed.

While I was drunk one night and my GF not home, I also bit the bullet and bought the OEM Euro-Spec mirrors from @Racer65. I had contemplated walking down the street and swiping them off of @JeremyS's rig, but figured that wouldn't be too neighborly. Anyway, those will be going on soon, along with full coolant flush and replace with Toyota red. I also drunkenly ordered the 4Runner wiper arms from Toyota and holy hell, what an improvement. Basically, when I drink, my 60 gets upgrades. Gonna need a whole bottle to press 'Purchase' on the suspension here soon.

To anyone who has put on the Euro mirrors: What did you use for a gasket under the mirror? Noticed there was a little bit of space between the mirror and the body when I mocked them up last night.

 

[mattressking]

Here's a funny story.

When I was doing my manifold gasket, I decided I'd pop my thermostat housing and see what was going on under there and how it looked. I undid the 4 bolts holding on the upper housing and couldn't seem to get it to come off. No big deal. I haven't had any issues overheating, so I wasn't stressed.

What I forgot to do, however, was retorque those 4 bolts, so when I went for drive that got the engine up to temp, the pressure blew the upper housing off and my engine started to overheat. I was able to limp home where I discovered that the P.O. had only used some black gasket maker instead of actually installing the $4 gasket. Needless to say, replacing the $4 gasket led to deciding to replace thermostat, hoses, bolts, clamps, etc. Basically, @mattressking's engine bay shamed me into spending a lot of money. I try to be a glass half full sort of guy, so I'm just feeling fortunate that I'll have the peace of mind to know that's all properly installed.

While I was drunk one night and my GF not home, I also bit the bullet and bought the OEM Euro-Spec mirrors from @Racer65. I had contemplated walking down the street and swiping them off of @JeremyS's rig, but figured that wouldn't be too neighborly. Anyway, those will be going on soon, along with full coolant flush and replace with Toyota red. I also drunkenly ordered the 4Runner wiper arms from Toyota and holy hell, what an improvement. Basically, when I drink, my 60 gets upgrades. Gonna need a whole bottle to press 'Purchase' on the suspension here soon.

To anyone who has put on the Euro mirrors: What did you use for a gasket under the mirror? Noticed there was a little bit of space between the mirror and the body when I mocked them up last night.

Make that engine bay sparkle!

 

[JeremyS]

Haha "Aw man my mirrors are gone and the guy down the street just got new ones".

I got my mirror gaskets here Land Cruiser 55, 60 & 62 Series Mirrors. The aftermarket ones fit the OEM mirrors too.

 

[batthewmrown]

Long time, no update. I've mostly been just driving the damn thing. Haven't been able to pass emissions, though, so I'm 5 months expired on tags. Oh well.

I did replace my leaky power steering pump. Had some trouble getting it off, so I just ended up removing the whole bracket. That made it easier to get to that mounting bolt that's totally inaccessbile thanks to its proximity to the manifold. I replaced with the OEM pump because it looks cooler than the Saginaw conversion. Plan on rebuilding my old one at some point for a reliable spare. Anyway, had some trouble with the bleeding process, but I finally got it sorted and she's quiet and turns and doesn't leak. Great success.

Now I'm in the process of doing the Koito headlamp upgrade from Cruiser Outfitters and I'm kind of stumped. I was hoping one of you fine people would be so kind as to take some pictures of how you set yours up. (Didn't you do this upgrade, @mattressking?) Where'd you attach your relays? Where do I locate the "Vehicle Side Female Connector" to plug "male Connector A"? I'm not exactly what you would call electrically inclined, so any help would be just fantastic.

 

[mattressking]

I plugged mine in to the driver headlamp, zip tied the harness up along the top of the condenser and back under the battery tray and plugged into battery. I mounted relays next to carb fan on the open bolt holes right next to it.