Builds 1975 Red Money pit (7 Viewers)

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Doors came off this weekend. Found these telescoping side mirrors on ebay. :) . Built a lift in garage for the top. Turned out pretty good, but need to get a better crank.

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First, you need to try pushing up and pulling down in the driveshaft at the drum. If there is any play, no seal will last. The preload on the main output bearings is out of spec.

If there is no freeplay, you should still consider the dual seal upgrade. Plenty of threads on the subject. I’ve made it a standard procedure in all my rebuilds and services for the last 15 years. Not had one complaint.

If you need one from me (it’s in Section 090 on the website) please note I am closed until May while I take care of a backlog of commitments.
Mark, can you PM me the cost for the dual seal? So I can paypal you. thanks
 
Pulled the rear diff cover off last weekend to take a look while I was changing the gear oil.
The drain plug had a normal amount of fine metal shavings..I don’t think anything to worry about.
As you see in photo, ring looks to have some normal wear.
I gear that I circled did seam to have a good bit of play in it. I could move it up and down maybe 1/8”-3/8”.
Is that normal?
Did take the time to clean it up and put a good coat of POR15 top coat..

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Pulled the rear diff cover off last weekend to take a look while I was changing the gear oil.
The drain plug had a normal amount of fine metal shavings..I don’t think anything to worry about.
As you see in photo, ring looks to have some normal wear.
I gear that I circled did seam to have a good bit of play in it. I could move it up and down maybe 1/8”-3/8”.
Is that normal?
Did take the time to clean it up and put a good coat of POR15 top coat..

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Tommy

Take a good hard look at the teeth on both spiders. Chances are the hash marks from when they were machined are long gone.

The objective is to always keep the spiders as tight as possible. When they move up and down, that also means they are not making high quality contact with the side gears. Running them like that will prematurely wear all the gears and put undue stress on the center pin.

Thicker thrust washers are available for the side gears, which will bring them in tighter against the spiders. As a result, you will also need a thinner center block between the axleshafts.

I stock all these parts, along with the dual seal speedo housing you inquired about by PM. Please leave a VM at the shop to follow up; I avoid doing business by PM as much as possible. Thanks.
 
Started replacing the gutter on the hardtop today since top is off. PITA! EVERY bolt was rusted. Had to cut almost everyone of them off. Can someone chime in on the top back piece?
Are those studs? Replacement ideas?

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Started replacing the gutter on the hardtop today since top is off. PITA! EVERY bolt was rusted. Had to cut almost everyone of them off. Can someone chime in on the top back piece?
Are those studs? Replacement ideas?

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I got it......broke screws. Thanks
 
Set my sides back on the body and connected the brackets above the doors and the barn doors.
Placed and bolted down my new drip ring to get the correct alignment. I placed the fiberglass top back on to make sure everything aligned. looked good.
Tack welded the new drip ring pieces while bolted to top.
I then removed the drip ring and started welding and grinding all the pieces, except the small piece that is on the very front.
Once I finished welding everything and grinding it down I re-bolted the drip ring back down to make sure nothing shifted.
I also places the fiberglass top back on the ensure it was good.
I then mocked up the small front piece that goes on the front. Tack welded it down while it was on the top. Had to tape it to the fiberglass top to make sure it fit well.

I need to take a few closeup pics. Also, I was so bright and hot out while I was welding, the auto dark feature on helmet would stay on. dang it.....

Next: Sand drip ring, 2k primer, then I am going to start sanding down top and fixing and issues. The actual TOP does no have anything wrong with it, except for around the edges and all the EXTRA rivet holes.
Plan on using 3M fiberglass resin jelly to fix those spots.

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Very impressive work. I've been subscribed to your build but haven't been getting alerts. Re-subscribed today👍

The rear hatch header has 4 hidden M6 weld nuts in that area. So no it shouldn't be a stud.
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Very impressive work. I've been subscribed to your build but haven't been getting alerts. Re-subscribed today👍

The rear hatch header has 4 hidden M6 weld nuts in that area. So no it shouldn't be a stud.
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Thanks! It’s been fun and trying at times...lol

Yea, once I started unscrewing them from the header I figured it was screws. The heads were completely rusted off
 
Few pics of the ring in primer. And while the top was off I blaster and re painted the hinges and brackets.
Notice the gap between the front ring piece and the side. Is that normal? Or should I weld a small pice to fill the gap? I couldn’t get it any closer because of how it fit on the top.

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Attached the drip ring with the rivets from cool cruisers. Used a 1/2” rebar and a socket extension.

Lesson learned, drill rivet holes before you paint it. :bang:

Painted and clear coated.. finally.

Waiting on my gasket from @Racer65 , should be here Tomorrow .

And no comments on the seam sealer. PITA.

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Half Door build:
Cut to the size/style I wanted. Didn’t have the material to weld the cap on.🤪
I took some 3” 16g strips and welded to the inside to have a smooth surface across the top. Probably didn’t have to, but did..
Was going to put 2 6” speakers in the door, but I thinking 6” component speakers with 1” tweeter.😎

Looking to wrap it with black and and red accent in the middle. Will see..

Need to find some hinges.

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Need to find some hinges.
Try the Quick Hinges sold here: QUIK Hinges
He's a Mud Member, and they worked fantastic for me once I got them installed correctly. Makes door swapping extremely easy!

Good luck!

PS: Love the rest of your build 👍
 

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