Joining the ranks... probably (1 Viewer)

[RnBs09LX570]

Hello, I'm looking to join the community, but I want to see if I'm doing this right.

Planning on buying the '09 LX570 with 308k miles on it (Link). Got a ppi happening today and probably reserving as soon as I get the news.

I have some high mileage in the stable, but this would definitely be the highest starting point. Been lurking for a few days, and I figure I should do all the fluids and probably replace the globe accumulators once I've gotten it. So I've got really just a couple questions:
1. Considering my original budget was $10k, this is really stretching for me. Is this worth it, or should I hold off till I've got the money to get a lower mileage example?
2. Does this seem like a good deal?
3. Keeping the stock rims, if I get 285/60/20, do I need any mods other than the 1"spacer (i.e. fender trimming)? I want bigger tires, but I also don't want to be cutting if I can avoid it.

 

[doru]

Hard to tell by pics looking on my phone.
For this mileage get the maintenance history from Lexus. If the maintenance is questionable or unknown, walk away.
Get the usual carfax for it.
Where has the truck lived?
Can you get a video w/ the Inspection? Some shops include it by default especially for remote buyers.
Is the low budget by choice or by means? These trucks are not cheap to maintain if something major goes wrong. Just keep in mind.
Ask yourself why are you staying w/ 20 rims if you want more side wall. Staying w/ 20 makes it harder but not impossible.

 

[RnBs09LX570]

Hard to tell by pics looking on my phone.
For this mileage get the maintenance history from Lexus. If the maintenance is questionable or unknown, walk away.
Get the usual carfax for it.
Where has the truck lived?
Can you get a video w/ the Inspection? Some shops include it by default especially for remote buyers.
Is the low budget by choice or by means? These trucks are not cheap to maintain if something major goes wrong. Just keep in mind.
Ask yourself why are you staying w/ 20 rims if you want more side wall. Staying w/ 20 makes it harder but not impossible.

Hopefully the ppi will illuminate any issues. Looking through the car fax doesn't raise any flags. Lived it's while life in Texas, looks like it was mostly used for commuting between ATX, Houston, and Dallas. Spotty reports of oil changes, and one for a timing belt (think they really changed the chain?). To be fair though, my maintenance records on Carfax look about the same, so I can't really tell if it's been babied or beaten.
Low budget is a combo of means and choice. This is going to be a backup car/tow/mild off road for us. Looking through typical maintenance pegs it about the same as our Flex as far as annual cost of ownership goes.
Want to stick with 20s for the first set or two of tires to get a little more off road look/prowess with minimal cost. The plan is to scout roads and upgrade as needed if we like the more difficult terrain.
Going to be moving it to Colorado, going to try roads like Fall Creek near Wolf Creek pass. We were using the Flex, but it's off road chops are about the same as my S2000, so when we saw some ruts and rocks, we had to back out. Now we're curious to go down that path.

 

[TeCKis300]

While the price of entry might be a good deal, understand that these rigs were near $100k new, so they are complex and have expensive parts. The more work you can do yourself, the more possibility to manage expenses. Good call on the PPI and hopefully they're thorough and you'll know what you're getting.

Two ways to get more sidewall. Downsize rims. Increase tire diameter. I'm a proponent of the latter as it ultimately gains more clearance and capability. It's not a bad balance either as for a mixed use vehicle, there's stability advantages to larger rims on-road, including the ability to tow large trailers and manage sway. I'm not giving up anything off-road with stock 20" wheels and 35s.

There's little need to cut anything. The LX has a good ability to swallow large tires just dropping them in. I'd aim for something in the 33 to 34s. Anything more incurs potential for additional modding expenses like re-gearing.

Best of luck in your new acquisition.

 

[doru]

On stock tires this will not do ruts or rocks only forest roads. There is just not enough sidewall even at normal inflation. You can up size to 33.34 is harder without changes, but nothing major. You will still be limited if you need to deflate for traction. But at least you get in the game and can decide later which way you go based on actual experience. Search forum for plenty of tire size talk.
Carfax is not a good source of maintenance records. Get the Lexus ones. If the previous owner has not registered the truck on his name on Lexus owner online account you can do it even if you don't own it. It is free and you gain access to full report. You do want to find out if that was a chain replacement.

 

[RnBs09LX570]

On stock tires this will not do ruts or rocks only forest roads. There is just not enough sidewall even at normal inflation. You can up size to 33.34 is harder without changes, but nothing major. You will still be limited if you need to deflate for traction. But at least you get in the game and can decide later which way you go based on actual experience. Search forum for plenty of tire size talk.
Carfax is not a good source of maintenance records. Get the Lexus ones. If the previous owner has not registered the truck on his name on Lexus owner online account you can do it even if you don't own it. It is free and you gain access to full report. You do want to find out if that was a chain replacement.

Oof, 0 records with Lexus. Didn't these get free maintenance for a year or two?
The Carfax did show it was taken to a few local shops (Lamb's automotive stuck out since I've used them and like them), so maybe that's why there's no record. Or perhaps I don't get records prior to my registry?

 

[Sandroad]

Oof, 0 records with Lexus. Didn't these get free maintenance for a year or two?
The Carfax did show it was taken to a few local shops (Lamb's automotive stuck out since I've used them and like them), so maybe that's why there's no record. Or perhaps I don't get records prior to my registry?

The Autocheck report on that site shows service at Park Place Lexus, so it's had service at a Lexus dealer at least 3-4 times.

 

[coleAK]

I know Tek loves his 20’s but going to a 34 or 35 is a compromise and takes some work.

like others have said I would do more then gravel roads without going to 17’s on a 33”. But every summer I see at least 2 or 3 trucks on 20’s with 33 or 34” tires and a pinch flat from one rock that was sticking out. For cost if you are carful could buy new 17’s with tires and sell the 20’s and walk away with spending less then just new 20” tires.

As for cost. I do almost all my own work, have a lift. I’ll reiterate that these trucks are expensive to repair. More in line with a BMW or MB then your Ford.

 

[TR4RUNNER]

Oof, 0 records with Lexus. Didn't these get free maintenance for a year or two?
The Carfax did show it was taken to a few local shops (Lamb's automotive stuck out since I've used them and like them), so maybe that's why there's no record. Or perhaps I don't get records prior to my registry?

Once you are registered with Lexus Owners you should be able to see records with the VIN. I was able to put the VIN from the listing into my account and see the service history. There’s a lot there to digest. If you know a shop where it has been serviced definitely ask their opinion and any history They have with the truck. I’m on stock rims with Yokohama G015 in 285/55R20 e rated tires. I have no problem hitting forest roads and rocky trails.

 

[RnBs09LX570]

Okay, I've got the vehicle history. This is awesome (the fact there's all this info, I haven't actually read it all yet).
Thanks for the responses, given me a lot to think about.

 

[RnBs09LX570]

I don't know why, but I can't view the history on my phone. Keeps saying there are no records...just gonna have to chill at the laptop for a bit.

 

[RnBs09LX570]

Okay, so, reading the history gives me a bit of a better story. Mostly skimmed first two owners, wild ride though (cut wires installing custom windshield, steering groans, creaks, rattles, etc. first ~120k miles).

From there, we get some mild gremlins:
1. Passenger seat belt -> replaced twice, latest in 2020 due to a recall, so I'm hoping this is end of story there.
2. Series of battery replacements that are too close together, requiring jumps. Alternator replaced in 2020 after a few battery deaths that required jumps. I'm hoping the alt replace means this is done too.
3. Leak from seal between windshield and cowl took out the ac blower, replaced windshield, reinstalled cowl (damaged by 1st owner maybe?) and cleaned to try to get a better seal. Not super confident in that wording, but I'm expecting that leak to be over. If not, the blower might get toasted again. Note to self, check the cowl seal.
4. At 263k miles, there's a transmission solenoid d issue, tech reset light and stated transmission would need to be replaced if the light came back. No further info, so I'm left to speculate. The solenoid is $150, and doesn't seem that hard to replace, so maybe the owner did that and it solved the issue? Given they put another 45k miles on it, probably not an issue...probably.

then the one that actually matters. The scary bit:
5. 293k miles. Coolant valley resealed due to leak, looks good. 300 miles later client hearing rattling that wasn't there before. Cannot reproduce. 299 passed inspection/registered. 307k pre-owned whole sale. 308k: Auction.

Now, I don't know all the reasons a car would end up at auction, but in my experience, it hasn't ever been just because. Did the owner finally discover crawl mode and think their car was falling apart? Did that solenoid from #4 give out and now the transmission is a ticking time bomb? Was the coolant still leaking and something got fried? Who knows.

Looks like the drive belts were last changed at ~150k, so I probably need a new one though.

Not a single mention of AHC flushes or globe accumulator replacement. Does this just not get reported, or am I going to be doing all that jazz in my free time?

 

[bloc]

More than a few dealers claim the AHC is a sealed system and fluid can't be changed. You don't want those places messing with it anyway. Let alone globe replacement.. Mention globes to 99% of lexus master techs and they'll look at you like a confused dog.

A PPI at a trustworthy shop should cover most of the issues you are concerned about. But ultimately if this thing doesn't give you confidence, move on.

 

[grinchy]

the valley leak is a not uncommon long term issue with this engine. that repair would likely have to be done if it wasn't.

I suggest you go in thinking you have $4k to $5k to get it back into tip-top shape.
Stuff you will want to assess and possibly replace: bushings/control arms; rear wheel bearings, radiator and water pump, starter, ahc globes and fluid, some transmission work

At 18K+5K you have a pretty renewed LX for $23k.

Same path i took with mine (208k when bought, $18k), I've been baselining and replacing stuff as it needed it, no one thing has been too much, but it has added up to several thousands over the last four year. Not leave me stranded work, but replacing and renewing work.

 

[AZLX570]

Sounds risky unless you feel comfortable/confident doing all the work yourself.

I know you said it's not your primary vehicle but in my opinion $20K is a decent chunk of change for any vehicle that is 13 years old with 300K miles, regardless if it was $100K new. If I was to roll the dice on a vehicle with that much mileage, it better be at least one owner for most of its life and have an impeccable service history. On top of that, I would personally go private party. But again, this is all just my opinion and I'm pretty risk adverse in most cases.

I'm sure you've already gone through this (and why you're here), but why not a Tundra/Sequoia?

Either way good luck. If this isn't the one more will pop up. There's decent private party examples in AZ fairly often since you seem fairly close.

 

[El Skywalker]

Okay, so, reading the history gives me a bit of a better story. Mostly skimmed first two owners, wild ride though (cut wires installing custom windshield, steering groans, creaks, rattles, etc. first ~120k miles).

From there, we get some mild gremlins:
1. Passenger seat belt -> replaced twice, latest in 2020 due to a recall, so I'm hoping this is end of story there.
2. Series of battery replacements that are too close together, requiring jumps. Alternator replaced in 2020 after a few battery deaths that required jumps. I'm hoping the alt replace means this is done too.
3. Leak from seal between windshield and cowl took out the ac blower, replaced windshield, reinstalled cowl (damaged by 1st owner maybe?) and cleaned to try to get a better seal. Not super confident in that wording, but I'm expecting that leak to be over. If not, the blower might get toasted again. Note to self, check the cowl seal.
4. At 263k miles, there's a transmission solenoid d issue, tech reset light and stated transmission would need to be replaced if the light came back. No further info, so I'm left to speculate. The solenoid is $150, and doesn't seem that hard to replace, so maybe the owner did that and it solved the issue? Given they put another 45k miles on it, probably not an issue...probably.

then the one that actually matters. The scary bit:
5. 293k miles. Coolant valley resealed due to leak, looks good. 300 miles later client hearing rattling that wasn't there before. Cannot reproduce. 299 passed inspection/registered. 307k pre-owned whole sale. 308k: Auction.

Now, I don't know all the reasons a car would end up at auction, but in my experience, it hasn't ever been just because. Did the owner finally discover crawl mode and think their car was falling apart? Did that solenoid from #4 give out and now the transmission is a ticking time bomb? Was the coolant still leaking and something got fried? Who knows.

Looks like the drive belts were last changed at ~150k, so I probably need a new one though.

Not a single mention of AHC flushes or globe accumulator replacement. Does this just not get reported, or am I going to be doing all that jazz in my free time?

Pass

 

[Sandroad]

Any vehicle with almost a third of a million miles is going to have some things in its service history besides routine maintenance. The PPI should have looked at coolant leaks, transmission function, rattling noises, and water leaks, etc. I’m most concerned about the #1 point in your first post related to cost. By the time you buy and do some basic preventative maintenance, you’ll be well over twice your stated budget. Additional high mileage PM and new tires will stretch that to a few thousand dollars more. You may have more financial flexibility than me, but I can’t imagine getting into a 200 series with just a $10K budget.

 

[kwelhand]

Any vehicle with almost a third of a million miles is going to have some things in its service history besides routine maintenance. The PPI should have looked at coolant leaks, transmission function, rattling noises, and water leaks, etc. I’m most concerned about the #1 point in your first post related to cost. By the time you buy and do some basic preventative maintenance, you’ll be well over twice your stated budget. Additional high mileage PM and new tires will stretch that to a few thousand dollars more. You may have more financial flexibility than me, but I can’t imagine getting into a 200 series with just a $10K budget.

Very well said… I got my LX570 with 160K and I thought that was high.
It cost me $4,500+ and 8 months to bring up my truck to tip top shape (CAM/ Valley leak fix, new fuel injectors, coil, suspension rebuild, and the list goes on).
I could only imagine how much it cost to bring up your new truck to the somewhat manageable level.
Why not go with GX470?

 

[bloc]

More food for thought.. used car prices are slated to drop dramatically over the next few months. A market that prices a 300k mile vehicle at almost 20k is… odd.

Might be a good time to wait and see what happens with that.

 

[Mbarron37]

Zero chance I buy a rig with 300k+ miles, unless I am good at wrenching and can get the vehicle for a steal.