JDM/aftermarket LED fj80/fzj80 cargo light install (2 Viewers)

[91FJ80Super44]

The FSM shows how the factory light fixture is wired (if installed) and that's how I wired it. The instructions that came with the Amazon were a little confusing, but I eventually figured it out. There's 2 wires in the OEM harness/connector. The blue wire is a constant +12v. The red wire is the door switch line. So if you wired your lights to the two wires in the OEM harness, you're right - you don't need to ground it. The hatch switch will turn it on and off. But if you have a 3 way switch on the fixture, you need a ground connection so the "on" position will turn on the light with the hatch closed - like if you were sleeping in it.

Oooooooooohhhhh, I gotcha, I didn't know that the door activated wire was just basically a ground, and that you could have a on and off switch by having a body ground, (or in your case the light has a switch in it) Thank you so much for that info, I didn't have access to a fsm, I'm going to add that into the guide tomorrow!!! I really appreciate it!!!

 

[80t0ylc]

Oooooooooohhhhh, I gotcha, I didn't know that the door activated wire was just basically a ground, and that you could have a on and off switch by having a body ground, (or in your case the light has a switch in it) Thank you so much for that info, I didn't have access to a fsm, I'm going to add that into the guide tomorrow!!! I really appreciate it!!!

Thanks for your compliment! My '94 has 2 interior lights up front that have the 3 position switch in them. I was so glad, when I got the FSM out that the cargo light wiring was set up the same way. I actually, stupidly ordered the light from Amazon before I checked the FSM. So I was lucky that Mr. T was thinking ahead of me.

If you get a light fixture with the 3 position switch, it will have 3 wires to connect. They should be labeled for their function.
1. Ground or cathode will connect to ground (not a wire in the OEM harness - so you'll have to find a good ground)
2. +12v or anode will connect to the OEM harness blue wire.
3. Lastly, the 3rd wire on the fixture should be labeled "door" and that connects to the OEM harness red wire.

 

[80t0ylc]

Oh, I just remembered the best reason for the 3 position switch.....so you can turn the light off during the day when you leave the hatch open for long periods of time....save your battery!

 

[91FJ80Super44]

Thanks for your compliment! My '94 has 2 interior lights up front that have the 3 position switch in them. I was so glad, when I got the FSM out that the cargo light wiring was set up the same way. I actually, stupidly ordered the light from Amazon before I checked the FSM. So I was lucky that Mr. T was thinking ahead of me.

If you get a light fixture with the 3 position switch, it will have 3 wires to connect. They should be labeled for their function.
1. Ground or cathode will connect to ground (not a wire in the OEM harness - so you'll have to find a good ground)
2. +12v or anode will connect to the OEM harness blue wire.
3. Lastly, the 3rd wire on the fixture should be labeled "door" and that connects to the OEM harness red wire.

I'm just going to copy and paste that into the guide and give you credit! I really appreciate you taking time to post pictures and provide me with some feedback, and having an off switch would be really helpful, because in my set up I can't turn mine off! And that could definitely drain the battery!
Thanks a ton,
Happy Cruisin'

 

[Renzo Caggiano]

Part 6
Next take the wire/plug that you pulled out of the ceiling and take your safety pin and push/pry downwards on the little plastic clip that is holding the wire in, and lightly pull on the wire to remove it, you might have to take the small flat-head screwdriver and push a little bit on the terminal inside the plug to get it out once you have cleared the plastic tab inside the plug(see pictures 1 and 2) you will have to do each one, but I recommend doing them separately just to make sure nothing touches together and shorts out. Next step is to strip the wires on the LED lights, not the main wires/plug that are physically attached to the LED strips, there is a plug that comes with the LED strips that plugs into the main plug on the LED strips, take the two wires that come out of this plug and then strip off about three quarters of an inch of the wire's sheathing (see picture 3) this is going to be a good point to test the polarity on the lights, all of the wires, on the truck and on the light strips are color coded, so figure out which ones work exactly for your model year and then feed the respective wire through the plug (see picture 4) (side note the solid black wire on the LED strips, and the red wire on the truck was the correct polarity for my model year, but just double-check to make sure) and then take the stripped wire and feed it through the hole in the terminal and wrap it around the terminal (see picture 5)

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Hey friend.. im in the process now but I’m having troubles to identify the right wires.. I’m testing one an have power unplugged but when in plug back in the oem lights come on but my tester off.. I’m confused .. can you help me ?

 

[cahill]

So there is a existing wire already there?

I don't think that wire is present in all the model years. If I recall it was present on earlier models but not in later models. Not sure when it changed.

 

[Renzo Caggiano]

Ok I follow all instructions but if think I found a better spot.. less pain.. it is right there where the jack is. Blue+ red-..

 

[ItsBavid]

Good work man. Thanks for sharing!

 

[bcomnes]

Thanks for posting your project! It motivated me to get around to doing mine. I think the most helpful parts were showing taking the weather stripping and trim out of the way and the location of the harness. Mine was tucked and taped into that square hole you mentioned. Dug out my FSM for wire colors and connections - a multi-meter helps confirm what's on the schematic. I'm jazzed that it's wired for a 3 position switch on your light fixture. I got mine on Amazon for less than $10. It's not as jazzy or bright as yours, but is just what I need. It simplifies it to have one center mounted fixture. I just cut off the connector and spliced my wiring to the OEM harness. The ground was easy since the fixture bracket mounts to the body and I utilized one of the screws for the ground. I also like the way Mr. T wired it so the light (when set to the door position) only comes on if you open the hatch. Here's a couple pics (oops....I need to tuck the ground wire back under fixture...)

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How did you attach that light? Just attached to the headliner? Bolt into the frame?

 

[80t0ylc]

How did you attach that light? Just attached to the headliner? Bolt into the frame?

Used a couple sheet metal screws into the body underneath the headliner. Tough part was holding the light base to mark where to drill pilot holes. Could have use a helper for sure. Be careful to trim headliner away from where you're drilling. Headliner likes to get wrapped up in drill bit and it will mangle your headliner if you're not careful. Ask me how I know

 

[bcomnes]

Used a couple sheet metal screws into the body underneath the headliner. Tough part was holding the light base to mark where to drill pilot holes. Could have use a helper for sure. Be careful to trim headliner away from where you're drilling. Headliner likes to get wrapped up in drill bit and it will mangle your headliner if you're not careful. Ask me how I know

Like trim a small square of the carpet off the headliner where you want to put a hole?

 

[80t0ylc]

Like trim a small square of the carpet off the headliner where you want to put a hole?

While pulling back the headliner to expose the wiring, you'll see where the OEM light would go if it was installed. (The OEM light bracket is there so you don't drill holes through your roof to the outside) Just pull the headliner back over the spot that you choose to mount your light. You can mark the spots for your mounting screws with a sharpie on the headliner and then use a punch prick through the headliner to mark your spots on the metal underneath. Use a razor knife to cut a slice in the headliner marks. Use your fingers or needle nose pliers to spread the headliner out of the way while you drill. I believe you'll have to cut another hole to run the wires through. The light fixture will cover up the marks and holes in the headliner as you install it.

 

[Dazrin]

Here are a couple other threads showing just the OEM rear cargo light install. Not nearly as bright as this version but it works for me when using a replacement LED panel instead of stock bulb.

As mentioned, since the wiring harness and mounts are already there, with the OEM light it's basically cut a hole, plug it in, go.

Rear Cargo Light Install

EDIT 23/7/2012, large pictures have been lost in the transition of web hosts, but here are the instructions and the thumbnails for this project: Rear Cargo Light 1. Remove the left rear seatbelt anchor by gently prying the plastic cover off with a screwdriver and removing the anchor bolt...

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Rear cargo light install, ERG80 style

I cannot take credit for this idea. I saw it on the rear cargo light install thread. I sourced my cargo light and pigtail from a part out (Thanks Arcteryx). What I did, Remove cargo light behind second row seat. Remove D-pillar seatbelt on driverside and the plastic. Remove caps holding...

forum.ih8mud.com