That's a little less project-y than the full engine, and other things, rebuild than I undertook. Probably a good call !
Jason
Builds Jackie: 1996 FZJ80 Survivor. A rolling resurrection (1 Viewer)
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That's a little less project-y than the full engine, and other things, rebuild than I undertook. Probably a good call !
Jason
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- #22
Today was the starter and the PHH. The starter was replaced with a Duralast unit by the PO back in 2016 roughly 40,000 miles ago. It had been giving me the grind occasionally, usually when the car had sat for a few days and the voltage might have been a bit low. I went back with the cold weather Denso.
I'd say we got our money's worth out of the PHH. Based on the clamp style on the pipe end, I'm guessing this is original to the truck. Seems hard to believe considering the mileage. I was lucky that when they replaced the engine, they did not bolt the pipe with the bolt that is impossible to get. So when I unbolted the top one, then cut the hose off, the pipe just came out super easy. I was able to put the new hose on the pipe out of the truck.
This picture sums up the days's progress. Should be good for a while in this neighborhood..
I'd say we got our money's worth out of the PHH. Based on the clamp style on the pipe end, I'm guessing this is original to the truck. Seems hard to believe considering the mileage. I was lucky that when they replaced the engine, they did not bolt the pipe with the bolt that is impossible to get. So when I unbolted the top one, then cut the hose off, the pipe just came out super easy. I was able to put the new hose on the pipe out of the truck.
This picture sums up the days's progress. Should be good for a while in this neighborhood..
Very similar situation with my PHH, 277 thousand miles, pretty sure it was original. Ripped in in half pulling it off. Time bomb just waiting., good job defusing it.
Jason
Jason
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- #25
I'm starting to shop for lift kits. Looking to run about 33" tires but I would like a fair bit of travel so I'm thinking a 3" lift. The diffs are coming out to get lockers, so regearing is an option, but I don't think I need it with 33 inch tires. Truck will be a tourer but will make up for my ability to make very bad decisions off road.
Do not make the same mistake I did and get 35s and regret it. Are you sure you want to only go with 33s, if you are only going with 33s there is really no reason to re-gear. If and when you go to 35+ is when you should consider re-gearing.
As far as the lift, consider your future modifications ie drawers, tents, etc. If you are going to add weight go with a 3" lift with heavy springs in the rear. Dobinsons has a great reputation and the ride quality (from what I read) is great with the progressive springs. OME can be stiff and with a "E" rated side wall on a 35 you can experience a rough ride. OME BP-51 shocks are a great option as they have adjustments for both rebound and compression, but can be expensive.
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- #27
Today’s project. I picked up a core engine and a good transmission and I built a rack for it.
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- #28
After 2 weeks, she's back from the body shop.
Before
After
I know the wiper is missing, its off to get painted. I have a new badge to install when the weather cooperates.
Before
After
I know the wiper is missing, its off to get painted. I have a new badge to install when the weather cooperates.
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- #29
Now that she is back from the body shop, its time to jump on the tools. I'm trying to get her ready for a beach camping trip next weekend in Padre Island. First up is to replace the passenger side wheel bearing. The drivers side isn't bad yet, and it will get replaced when I do the birfs in a little bit. Birfs are just now starting to leak, so I have some time.
The last guy in here was a Permatex overachiever. I had to take the wire wheel to both mating surfaces of the drive axle hub. Turns out a 45 ACP barrel brush is the right diameter to get the sealant out of the holes.
Drive axle hub splines and the CV splines look good. There was still a lot of grease and you could even tell it was red in spots. In with the Marlin Crawler bearings and she's good in this department for the trip.
The last guy in here was a Permatex overachiever. I had to take the wire wheel to both mating surfaces of the drive axle hub. Turns out a 45 ACP barrel brush is the right diameter to get the sealant out of the holes.
Drive axle hub splines and the CV splines look good. There was still a lot of grease and you could even tell it was red in spots. In with the Marlin Crawler bearings and she's good in this department for the trip.
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- #30
Padre Island is 10 hours away, and the current audio situation is dismal. No antenna, the CD player doesn't work, and the tape player doesn't work. So in with the JVC double DIN. Wireless Carplay, XM, all the modern accoutrements.
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- #31
Next up on the trip prep was the leaking fuel tank. I'm lucky enough to have access to a lift, which makes this job a lot easier.
She had the typical leak on the top of the tank.
I replaced the primary fuel filter and the fill and vent hose while I was in there. I also replaced to two small rubber hoses at the top of the tank. The return line and whatever the second one is.
The inside of the tank looked pretty clean. I'm happy with that.
She had the typical leak on the top of the tank.
I replaced the primary fuel filter and the fill and vent hose while I was in there. I also replaced to two small rubber hoses at the top of the tank. The return line and whatever the second one is.
The inside of the tank looked pretty clean. I'm happy with that.
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- #32
Here's the Padre Island Trip report. I'll stick to the highlights and let the pictures do the talking. My boys have never done any beach driving. I've done Hatteras and Port Fourchon when you could drive on it. Son #1 lives in Houston, so it makes a convenient first leg from the coast to H-town. Then 4 hours to the sand.
Weather was awesome. Warm in the day, shorts and a t-shirt, then jeans and a light jacket at night for the fire. Winds were mild by Padre Island standards until Sunday. Not one mosquito bite. The fish also were not biting.
This is the approach ramp, sorry for the dirty windshield;
The first 5-10 miles are pretty hard, especially a few hours after the low tide. We were at mile 16 or so in about an hour. The sign at Mile 5 says 4WD past this point, but it wasn't too bad on that day. We were worried about having 120 miles of fuel in 4WD conditions, so we brought extra and strapped it to the roof.
Lots of buoys and ocean debris. Apparently, the predominant wind and current put everything on the west coast of the GOM.
Weather was awesome. Warm in the day, shorts and a t-shirt, then jeans and a light jacket at night for the fire. Winds were mild by Padre Island standards until Sunday. Not one mosquito bite. The fish also were not biting.
This is the approach ramp, sorry for the dirty windshield;
The first 5-10 miles are pretty hard, especially a few hours after the low tide. We were at mile 16 or so in about an hour. The sign at Mile 5 says 4WD past this point, but it wasn't too bad on that day. We were worried about having 120 miles of fuel in 4WD conditions, so we brought extra and strapped it to the roof.
Lots of buoys and ocean debris. Apparently, the predominant wind and current put everything on the west coast of the GOM.
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- #33
First night's camp between mile 15 and 20. This tarp setup created a lee we could cook in. Worked pretty well. The T4 is set up as close to the 80 and tied to it. We used this same set up for Saturday night.
Sunset over the dunes.
Dinner was steak fajitas.
This must be the no wake zone.
Sunset over the dunes.
Dinner was steak fajitas.
This must be the no wake zone.
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- #34
Saturday morning, it was clear we had some visitors in the night.
We booked it down to the south end. We ate lunch down there and just enjoyed the warm sun and a bit of cell phone signal. Dinner was filet mignon and a baked potato. Dessert was Apple Crumble in the Dutch oven.
We knew the wind was going to come up overnight. Forecast called for 25-30 knots. The tarp held in the night, but the fine sand covered everything.
But the sunrise over the inlet was awesome.
Overall we had a blast. No vehicle issues. I drove the whole way in high range all wheel drive. Never had to lock the CDL. We headed back Sunday AM on a high tide, and I had to stay closer to the dune in the soft stuff, but that only resulted in the occasional downshift, unlocked high range was fine. Tires were at 20 psi.
We had a blast and will definitely recommend it.
We booked it down to the south end. We ate lunch down there and just enjoyed the warm sun and a bit of cell phone signal. Dinner was filet mignon and a baked potato. Dessert was Apple Crumble in the Dutch oven.
We knew the wind was going to come up overnight. Forecast called for 25-30 knots. The tarp held in the night, but the fine sand covered everything.
But the sunrise over the inlet was awesome.
Overall we had a blast. No vehicle issues. I drove the whole way in high range all wheel drive. Never had to lock the CDL. We headed back Sunday AM on a high tide, and I had to stay closer to the dune in the soft stuff, but that only resulted in the occasional downshift, unlocked high range was fine. Tires were at 20 psi.
We had a blast and will definitely recommend it.
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- #35
So overall, over 1450 miles of driving, with 120 miles of it on the beach. Due to the crazy Texas 75 MPH speed limits, she got a pretty good "Italian Tune Up". No issues with the car. And this happened:
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- #36
In addition to all the other typical 80 series problems this car has, it also has a bad window washer valve. This part came all the way from the UAE via Amayama. It is the little things, but slowly this is becoming a pretty driveable truck.
Next weekend is the #2 Knock Sensor replacement and all four window runs and the rear door lock actuators.
Next weekend is the #2 Knock Sensor replacement and all four window runs and the rear door lock actuators.
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- #38
$500 cash for the rear hatch. The tailgate was painted to blend the new paint in. They did not find more rust under the glass. They had the option of using a new OEM gasket that I provided, and they said that the existing gasket was in good condition and preferred to use it as it was already well molded to the glass.
The repair isn't perfect, but I was mainly concerned with repairing the rust, which was accomplished.
The repair isn't perfect, but I was mainly concerned with repairing the rust, which was accomplished.
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- #39
Yesterday was Engine Knock Sensor repair, rear window runs, and rear door actuators.
Knock sensor: Very hard to photograph this since it is way up there by the PHH. The engine harness side connector broke. I didn't have the depinning tools, and the copper bar was still poking out of the sensor, so I soldered a male spade connector to it and reinstalled it. I crimped the female to the broken wore from the engine harness. Cleared the code and it hasn't come back. Must be good enough for now. What a difficult location to strip and crimp a wire...
Did the window runs and door lock actuators at once. Pretty straightforward as others have posted. I did not lube the physical lock by the handle, and now the locking via the power lock button is only partial. I lubed the snot out of it on the other side and that side works great. So I need to take the door card back off that side and lube it up.
The door lock actuator change it self is very straightforward. I elected to replace the entire actuator as both common problems (broken plastic, worn motor brushes) are contained within the actuator assembly, plus the Aisin part was something like $40 from Rock auto.
Knock sensor: Very hard to photograph this since it is way up there by the PHH. The engine harness side connector broke. I didn't have the depinning tools, and the copper bar was still poking out of the sensor, so I soldered a male spade connector to it and reinstalled it. I crimped the female to the broken wore from the engine harness. Cleared the code and it hasn't come back. Must be good enough for now. What a difficult location to strip and crimp a wire...
Did the window runs and door lock actuators at once. Pretty straightforward as others have posted. I did not lube the physical lock by the handle, and now the locking via the power lock button is only partial. I lubed the snot out of it on the other side and that side works great. So I need to take the door card back off that side and lube it up.
The door lock actuator change it self is very straightforward. I elected to replace the entire actuator as both common problems (broken plastic, worn motor brushes) are contained within the actuator assembly, plus the Aisin part was something like $40 from Rock auto.
Nice! How did you find out where the leak was coming from? Did you find it before or after you removed the tank?
