Jack Stand Placement - Front Axle Removal

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Mar 26, 2012
Hi All,

I have two 12 ton Torin Jack Stands. I plan to remove my front axle to swap gears and do a locker. I had to do so for the rear to get the differential back in with the copper tubing. To hard laying under the rig.

I’m worried about the weight balance if I put the stands under the frame rails right before the front wheel wells due to the engine weight. I don’t want the rig to tip over on me! I do have a rear tire swing and bumper with a 37 creepy crawler on it. That is some counter weight.

I also thought about putting another 150 lbs of weight in the back of the rig as well.

Thoughts about putting jack stands under the frame right before the front wheel wells?
Should work fine.
I’ve been thinking about this as well, need to replace bushings and do a birf job and wanted to strip it all down. I was thinking about another support under the bumper
I agree, you should be fine, even without putting anything in the back of the truck as counter weight. Ive done it a few times on differnt swb cruisers, and i haven't been crushed yet.

I've got a third 12t under the crossmember. Sorry I don't have a side shot but there's a 12t just behind the spring perches. 6ts are under the axle
Now you're talkin, I like that idea
Never noticed any front tippyness when doing this operation with the stands right behind front perches, as shown in post #2.

But, you may find it easier to do this surgery in situ. It is only necessary to pull off caliper, rotor, spindle and then pull out halfshafts. No need to undo TRE's or knuckles.
I would rather do it with the axle securely attached to the truck, with jackstands holding diff housing 17-18" off the floor, so the trolley jack can use it's 20" lift to catch & reinstall the punkin.
If you're doing a complete rehab including hot work on the housing and adding a locker it doesn't get easier than working at a comfortable height. The whole thing was reassembled on a welding table and stabbed back in by my lonesome. No way I could have done this in place as quickly and efficiently.

Jim is spot on, preforming what the OP wants to do make sense to leave the axel in the rig.
another support under the bumper

I do this for safety if I'm stripping out the entire front axle. I also agree with Jim, seems more work than ecessary for the job described.
Appreciate the OP for starting this thread and for the input, I was a little nervous looking at how far back those perches are from the front and considering the weight of the mighty 2F, winch and bumper.... just want to work in safety when I dive in and tear it open.
The reason why I want the axle out is I’m re-gearing to 4.88 with Air locker. To place the diff in the housing and maneuver the copper tube in the housing at the same time is very hard when working under the car. I did the rear and found it was easier to drop the diff in the housing while standings over the axle with the housing facing up.

There was barley enough room to get the gears and copper pipe in the housing.
I did something similar to 'FixedIt for my OME lift install. All of the weight is supported by the two 12T stands mounted near the front spring perch. The axle is on two 6T stands. I positioned two extra 12T stands under the front frame as a back-up plan only...


Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom