J Pipe Ferrule (1 Viewer)

[lcolon]

I read a few threads about this. I am in the process of replacing my head and have everything apart. The J Pipe (stock) is still rust free and intact. Where the pipe goes into the cooler, however, is loose and I can easily pull the pipe in and out. Is this something for concern? Should I get a SOR stainless pipe for a tighter fit?

If it has a slight exhaust leak as a result of the looseness I do not really mind. I only care if this is going to cause bigger issues. My head and manifold were both cracked, burned exhaust valve #4. I certainly am trying to avoid any lean conditions. Advise appreciated.

 

[micruz60]

There is a gasket for that, usually burns up. You want that sealed sealed.
SOR stainless isn't a bad thing, $$ is all.

 

[BlackCat]

Wait, there’s a gasket for that!? Anyone have the part number?

 

[Spike Strip]

No gasket, just that ferrule. It's supposed to be a compression fit. The SOR pipe may help. I have it on mine and like it, but if yours is good, I'd just use as is and maybe clean out the threads in the EGR cooler and the ferrule to make sure the Nut is seating well. You could use a bunch of the High Temp Orange goop to try and seal it.

 

[BlackCat]

I have no visible signs mine is leaking from there, but I have it all apart doing the manifold gasket. Like the OP, mine just kinda slid out like it was nothing. I thought it was a little weird, but with no soot or indications of a leak there, I’m not sure if I should worry about it.

 

[lcolon]

Thank you for the replies. I spoke to a mechanic earlier who said to run it as is... Does a leak around the ferrule cause any problems or just noisy? PS - I did not notice any issues beforehand and I assume it has been this way for a while.

 

[BlackCat]

But sweet Jesus, mine is cracked. I was gonna put it back together this weekend! I’ll weld it up tomorrow. You guys are lifesavers!!

 

[Seth_O]

When I pulled mine apart while doing the manifold gasket I found that it just slid apart pretty easily. But when I reassembled with the ferrule in place, once I tightened it down it snugged up pretty well.

I dont believe I have any leaks there.

 

[lcolon]

Carnage at the head for those interested. Ran fine even with only 5 cylinders working. I was having overheating issues. After replacing the thermostat, waterpump, and fan clutch I finally did a compression test and leak down. Showed that #4 was burned. Took it apart as you can see... Major PITA of a job.

 

[Spike Strip]

That head was cracked, too?

 

[lcolon]

Yes... cracked on the top from one of the freeze plugs to the valve stem along the water jacket. Sucks that I had to get a whole other head. Root cause for the lean condition was a cracked manifold that I had Mudrak weld up. They also built the new head.

 

[joebattle1]

There is a gasket for that pipe. I think I got mine from SOR. You probably should replace it as it could be the difference between you passing smog or not.

Here is a pick of my old one vs the new one.

 

[micruz60]

My mistake... Misread the OP. compression fit at pipe to cooler, and gasket to exhaust manifold as shown by joe above.

 

[lcolon]

Thank you micruz60. Yes I have that gasket... I am going to try just running the pipe as is and see what happens. Hopefully I don't have to take it apart!!!

 

[BlackCat]

So my flange had been so tweaked from several (PO) attempts to get it to stop leaking at the j-pipe. After inspection, it appears that the more you overtighten it, the more it causes the middle portion to flair up and away from the manifold, causing a larger gap and higher probability of a leak. So overtightening actually makes it much, much worse. I’ve carefully got it back in position, and will weld the cracked flange weld and button it up.

 

[cps432]

No gasket, just that ferrule. It's supposed to be a compression fit. The SOR pipe may help. I have it on mine and like it, but if yours is good, I'd just use as is and maybe clean out the threads in the EGR cooler and the ferrule to make sure the Nut is seating well. You could use a bunch of the High Temp Orange goop to try and seal it.

I did this just the other day. Just glue every oriphace closed. I even put a bead between the two halves of the EGR cooler.

 

[lcolon]

Good suggestion. Mine has already been welded up previously. I tightened to 15ft/lbs with a remflex gasket. Got my truck back together. Now just chasing overheating issues - gauge or a burp problem I suspect.

More cruiser problems as usual. After a head replacement, I am ready for it to just work

 

[cps432]

Good suggestion. Mine has already been welded up previously. I tightened to 15ft/lbs with a remflex gasket. Got my truck back together. Now just chasing overheating issues - gauge or a burp problem I suspect.

More cruiser problems as usual. After a head replacement, I am ready for it to just work

I feel you there! I rode my bike everywhere, confined to about 5 miles, for 8 months. I finally got it running and cheating emissions this week. Keep at it. You’ll track it down and you’ll know more than the average person. Burp that gal and see if she acts right! Did you replace your thermostat when you did the head job?

 

[lcolon]

I feel you there! I rode my bike everywhere, confined to about 5 miles, for 8 months. I finally got it running and cheating emissions this week. Keep at it. You’ll track it down and you’ll know more than the average person. Burp that gal and see if she acts right! Did you replace your thermostat when you did the head job?

I did replace the thermostat with a 190o unit. Burped it, showed running hot. Replaced it today with a 180o unit, burped, still showed hot. Connected a mechanical temp gauge. Temps all look good (190o on the freeway with the 180o thermostat). The factory gauge is simply not working correctly. I am going to abandon it and run the mechanical permanently. Nothing like being able to exactly understand what your temps are. I have dumped so much coolant during this project screwing around with burping and changing this/that, that I am glad I no longer need to generate more bio-hazards (for a while). Now to crack a cold one and enjoy a fully functioning cruiser again.

Now also to check transfer case seepage ie. it never ends!

 

[cps432]

I did replace the thermostat with a 190o unit. Burped it, showed running hot. Replaced it today with a 180o unit, burped, still showed hot. Connected a mechanical temp gauge. Temps all look good (190o on the freeway with the 180o thermostat). The factory gauge is simply not working correctly. I am going to abandon it and run the mechanical permanently. Nothing like being able to exactly understand what your temps are. I have dumped so much coolant during this project screwing around with burping and changing this/that, that I am glad I no longer need to generate more bio-hazards (for a while). Now to crack a cold one and enjoy a fully functioning cruiser again.

Now also to check transfer case seepage ie. it never ends!

Yeah, I dumped, refilled, dumped, refilled, and half dumped and refilled my coolant this summer. I’m glad to be done with it. I just replaced my heater valve today and luckily I only lost a few drops this time. I need to burp it tomorrow. Yes it’s time for a cold one!
I’m working on brakes next weekend, weather permitting.
Then I gotta get after my t-case. I’ve got an awful roar and shutter coming from the bearings I suspect. Someone has been in there before and I’m guessing they didn’t do a full rebuild.