I've got the 80 series itch... (1 Viewer)

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MrMikeyG

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Jun 19, 2018
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Location
Seattle, Wa USA
Hello. Let me just say that the lengths some of you go to just to acquire your Cruisers is really something (as I'm about to whine about driving a little over an hour to look at one).
I've always loved these rigs, yet until now, there have only been 2 other times in my life where it could have made sense; once back in 95-96 (what would A '91 have cost then)? and around 2002 when I was single and in the Army (they were pretty steady at about 10-13k if I remember).
I'm looking for a rig to take me up into the woods and backcountry here in Washington state. I've given up on finding a triple locked version already (rare and expensive out here it seems), and now I'm just trying to figure out how much of a project i'm willing to under take. (there's a non-running boat and a partially rebuilt trailer taking up 2 parking spots at my house right now).
This will not be a daily driver. It will be for short errands, and fun.
I've been looking at the "rougher" samples that have been for sale around here. Simply put, my ceiling is 5k for the truck.
There are 2 Dark green 94's in the 3500-4k range. I went and looked at one; cloth interior, newer Falken rocky mountain somethings, new belts, oil change, some other common maintenance stuff, expired tabs, hasn't been driven regularly in a while, all lights worked, started fine, had some Latte looking stuff in filler cap, but undercarriage was a mess, grease and oil everywhere. oh, 185k on the clock.
I haven't gone south to look at the other same year/color, etc but 300k
just looked at a white '96 tonight;
exterior a bit rough, interior pretty good actually; less leather cracking than what I usually see, 96 is obdII so I have aftermarket scanner things available (this is correct right?) already had some aftermarket speakers, headunit, backup cam (it did not turn on however), some newer Mickey Thompson tires which were more quiet on the road than I was expecting, but probably not what I would buy. The white one is at a small car lot, so I may not be able to haggle as much as private party. oh, 246k on the odo.
So, the question;
what would be a deal breaker for some of you when looking at these? I've read a lot of forums, and I just want one that I can make it to the parts store in. I'm comfortable turning wrenches, and I fully expect to need to fix some things. what might seem the craziest thing about me getting an 80 is that I don't have a garage it will fit in.
Can someone confirm; There was no factory center diff lock switch, it was an aftermarket thing some folks added, but the center diff locks when put in 4lo?
Sorry for the long winded first post. This is a great forum.
Mike.
 
Hi Mike,

They are getting tough to find in the PNW, I had to get mine from it's first owner in California and have it trucked up to Seattle haha. I'll start with your center diff lock switch question. None of the 93-97 models had them from the factory in the US. But you can buy one and the plug is back there to tap into, I did on mine, took maybe 10 mins. It will lock itself when you go into low, the benefit of the switch is you get 4hi too just by pushing it. You can also remove Pin 7 from one of the harnesses (well documented mod, look it up for more info) and then use the switch to have AWD low.

I would say that really 91-92 should be cheaper to find, as they have a smaller and much less powerful albeit more simple engine and they never had the locker option or full float rear axle with disc brakes. The 93-97 have the 1FZ-FE engine, some say it is not a matter of if but when will the headgasket blow, others say that is blown out of proportion. I just do my best to make it happy it tends to blow on the #6 or between the #6 and #5 cyls. The latte looking stuff you're seeing on the cap can occur up in the PNW from condensation and oil mixing since that is the highest point. I'd check the oil on the dipstick, if you see it there, then chances are it has made a milkshake from a blow head gasket. At that point I would walk away because I don't know if they ran it long enough like that to cause engine damage like bearing issues and such. You can also check the coolant for cleanliness. Their (91-92) transmissions are also fully hydraulic, no electronics... known as the A440F 91-92 Also have a more basic center diff with no viscous coupler so the AWD is a bit... different and 50/50 (until a tire breaks loose at least).

There is a fairly common issue with the 93-97 where a little heater hose on the back drivers side of the head burst, scatters all the coolant, and then lets the engine overheat. It is so common it has a name "the PHH" it is annoying but fixable and sometimes causes no damage if caught quickly like mine was.

The 93-94 have a more primitive engine management system and it is void of OBD II and gets slightly worse MPG but is still plenty easy to source parts for and diagnose problems on. Mine has been good to me so far, although the 93 model year is known to have computer issues so make sure the check engine light works (in the ON position) but isn't on when the truck is running. The 93-94 are also a bit picky about their O2 sensors. The 93-94 have a bigger (some might say more robust) A442F transmission that has its own separate control unit and has a straight cut first gear (kinda loud but very strong), also has kinda noisy planetary gears for cruising in fourth, again its normal. Some call this transmission the bus transmission as it was use in some transport buses in Japan.

95-97 Have OBDII and a smaller newer transmission more closely related to those found in Supras, 4Runners and early Tacomas, known as the A343F.

On all 93-97 I would check to make sure the wiring harness on the firewall isn't sitting on the EGR pipe as can happen. They all have viscous couplers in the transfer case that allows 30/70 +- 10% to the front and back when in AWD modes.

Other than these the rest of most things are just maintenance that you might have to catch up on, front axle rebuilds are common, brakes are commonly replaced too. Check for cracked intake tube, has a tendency to break and can make it run rough at idle.

I'm sure there is stuff I glossed over but I hope this helps a bit.
 
It took awhile for me to find mine out here and it was higher mileage than i wanted but looked like it had never been off road and the owners had paperwork all the way back to purchase of dealer work and routine maint. done on it. My advise if your not willing to look outside the state is not rush a purchase and wait till you find one thats 3x locked they really are worth it.
 
Speedytech7, Thanks, that was all good info. The 94 I looked at had a build date of 12/93 And the milkshake/latte stuff wasn't on the dipstick. I was told it could be a PCV valve issue too (thoughts anyone)?
Also, are there not a few threads about the flanges/another birfiled area part being bigger/stronger on the late '94 and up?
Funny thing about the "PHH" issue, I test drove the '96 tonight. Nothing too serious, a quick loop in the neighborhood near dealership, on quick highway pull (exit to exit), checking various functions and keeping an eye on the gauges. Ran the AC a little bit. We pulled back into the parking lot and while idling I cycled through all of the fan speeds to make sure things were ok then shut it down. Put the rig in reverse and thought I smelled antifreeze. Looked under the hood, but couldn't smell it any more, started walking back to the office and saw a green "blood" trail leading back to the truck. Definitely came from drivers side, up under exhaust manifold somewhere, but there was enough drips, that I couldn't accurately place the source. Dealer is sending it to a shop.

mudgudgeon; I've got the Australia itch too. Is that combined with 80 series itch a bad combo?
 
Exhaust manifold is on passenger side, intake manifold, PHH, Bypass hose and heater control valve would be on drivers side.

Plan to spend another $2K after purchase for base lining to make it reliable for the condition you will get for a $5K purchase price.
 
I've picked up 2 for under 2k each (first one rolled that is my long term project, second one needed some work but more roadworthy). I prefer the 91/92 since they are cheaper, and I can get aftermarket lockers if I want. I don't mind doing body work, and was finding a bunch near Sacramento that had dented doors/fenders/lift gate, etc for around $2500, several that were in good mechanical shape.
I'd suggest expanding your search area, and be willing to move quick for a good one (it seems like around here, they're gone in a day or two). Check out the clubhouse page of any area in your search. Someone may be willing to check out a rig for you, or be willing to go with to give an experienced eye.
Good luck and keep scratching the itch until you get one.
 
Keep a close eye on Craigslist, they come up semi-regularly, but they sell fast. Also look at OfferUp, that’s where I found my 3X locked 94, in Enumclaw (about 15 minutes from my house). Don’t let high miles scare you either, provided the truck is clean and well maintained. The above mentioned 94 has 329k on the clock, and it purs like a kitten. +1 on the statement made regarding spending extra $$$ on baselining a truck. This will mostly be due to “age related” issues such as perished rubber hoses and bushings, leaking radiators, slow electric motors, weather checking, etc. In spite of all that, you won’t regret scratching that 80 itch, there’s just no other rig quite like it.
 
get ready to spend money. you say you wont spend that much like I did but if you keep coming to tis website you see things you just have to have... like bumpers, roof rack, sliders, lift, dual batts, snorkel, freaking floor mats, electric fan, wench, compressor, and enough electronics and gizmos to make a modern computer jealous... enjoy!
 
That foam your seeing on the oil fill cap <could> be from getting engine warm, but not hot, and shutting it off allowing condensation to “set-up”. That’s why short, around town runs are hard on motors...... they need to run for awhile after reaching operating temps.
I would look outside your boundaries. I’m on East Coast, but can find 3x licked all day long for $3500-$5000. If you could find one within a days drive (700-800 miles) it would benefit you.
Good luck!
 
That foam your seeing on the oil fill cap <could> be from getting engine warm, but not hot, and shutting it off allowing condensation to “set-up”. That’s why short, around town runs are hard on motors...... they need to run for awhile after reaching operating temps.
I would look outside your boundaries. I’m on East Coast, but can find 3x licked all day long for $3500-$5000. If you could find one within a days drive (700-800 miles) it would benefit you.
Good luck!
Curious where you are seeing prices like that on 3x locked trucks? I'm only a few hours away from you and never see anything even close to that range unless it is completely clapped out with serious issues. Even unlocked trucks in that range are usually in need of some serious work.
 
holy sh*t im dying :rofl:

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