Its time to Desmog Walter (1 Viewer)

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Ned

Joined
Aug 2, 2015
Threads
7
Messages
126
Location
Hollywood FL
I apologies for any lack of continuity, this is pretty much my first step by step post of a major project of any forum I have been on. Ok so lets get to the point!

This is not my first rodeo with a wrench, but I have to say this mod is not for the faint of heart on a 34 year old vehicle it took all of 6 hours to strip this thing down and put in the parts I purchased, a Jim C desmog kit.


Items in this shipment

EGR threaded plug × 1
EGR outlet Gasket, OEM Graphlex × 1
EGR blockoff plate × 1
Air Pump Idler pulley, 81-87 2F with PS × 1
Cap & Plug Kit × 1

So I started with the air rail, everything is good until one starts twisting the metal tube attached to the injector, that's ok, don't need the rail anyways. All the injectors end up coming out undamaged and are still good. These are going in the for sale pile.

Put the six small threaded plugs in each the respective holes. No problem hear.

Next started taking pictures, of what the vacuum hoses look like originally, for prosperity and in case I have to reference something I might be confused with on these diagrams of hoses we are suppose to go by.

Now I carefully start unhooking hoses, vacuum and smog pump, some I simple cut, but I was careful in keeping the ac advance and the distributer hoses still hooked up. I am cheep and recently replaced 90 percent of these things and would like to think I could reuse as much as possible. Then I took off the metal "clump of tubing all the vacuum hoses are routed on. Based on what the forum has recommend I got high temperature thread sealant. Good thing because one of the bolts was right at the thermostat housing. So took that out moved the mess of tubes an quickly put it back in before too much fluid was lost.

Next I went after the EGR area. Took off the HAC and wham nipple broke! This seemed like it was going to be a precursor to my entire day. Next I took of the HAC, and another nipple broke. Good thing I live at sea-level in South Florida!

Ok, so now on onto the EGR valve area. Unbolted it from the fender, used a vice grip to unbolt the giant bolt on the tube going under the carb area from the intake. The bolts in the block and intake that held it came out easy enough.

So I looking ant this thing going how the hell do I get it out, and decided to start to wiggle, next thing I know the hose going to the exhaust on the top crumbles and breaks free. Now I am left with this steel tube on the bottom of the engine going underneath to the exhaust. I wiggle some more and it just pops right out of the bottom EGR stuff COOL!

Then I use that big brass bolt in the kit, FYI you have to use two vice grips or wrenches if you have them that big and tighten the snot out of it!

So I am feeling good and keep going.

I decide the next thing to get rid of is the smog pump. This comes out nice but I have to bend the power steering lines just a little and it slides out.

Now here is where it gets tricky the BVSV's.


The one I need to keep breaks! But according to this forum you can use the second one if that happens but the truck will run rough on start up?


Anyone out their have first hand knowledge on this, I would like to know.


So I use my high temperature thread sealant on the plug for the one that omitted, and replace that one with the broken upper one. Now this does not seem to go in as far as the air injectors did, but in all fairness the BVSV did not seem that deep either, Is this normal?

Now I have one plug left over where does it go???

Anyways onto the exhaust block off plate, where I used my reasoning to determine it bust be at the end of that tube that was connected to the EGR box thing. It was and its not the easiest thing to get too.

So with my friend the impact gun, the bolts came off and after struggling to get the block off plate and bolt started I got one side done, then trouble starts. the second bolt/nut seems stripped. Great!

One side is sipped up tight and the other is not. Any subjections, will the stud on the exhaust come out an I can replace it or do I take it to an exhaust shop to have the hole welded in???

Now I left the fun stuff for tommow the vacuum routing!

Let me know what you think and I will post up tomorrow as to if I can figure out the hose routing.
 
thanks! That's reassuring. I am trying to get my research ready for connecting the vacuum hoses. It is confusing to say the least. Since only one BVSV is plugged what is the other plug for that came in my kit?
 
Thanks, now I seem to have an even bigger issue the advancer port on the bottom of the carb is gone...
 
The brass nipple is gone? Just a big vacuum leak? Was the truck running before? Was HAC already bypassed?
 
As a temporary measure, you could put a dab of RTV in the hole where the nipple previously was and hook the vac advance hose up to HAC Slow - which would be unused going forward.

You could see about trying to epoxy a new nipple into the carb, but maybe buy a used core carb and ship it out for an overhaul.
 
That's reassuring that their migiht be a temporary fix with the HAC slow. I will try that. Should I put a dab or rtv on the HAC port B as well (that was broken also) since its not being used?
 
yes truck was intermittently running rough like a vacuum leak that would so maybe it was cracked and when I took off the lines it just broke and I didn't realize it.
 
update, the advancer port was not broken, the hose broke flush with it, when I started to clean it up I realized this. I feel stupid...
 
So I capped the slow advance at the carb since the HAC port is broken. All the hoses are routed I think correct any idea which way the check valve goes from the gas filter to the distributed from the t fitting from the HAC advance port I used the green and black check valve and used black side to the gas filter.
 

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