It's leaking they said, replace the power steering rack they said... (1 Viewer)

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To add a data point, I replaced the alternator due to a dead battery and lack of output in early September. Battery load tested fine at autoparts store, was recharged, and worked fine until it died two weeks ago (ca. 2 months post alt replacement). Battery was 2.5 years old, and it's demise was likely accelerated by the cold snap we had a few weeks prior. YMMV.
 
It is possible that the alternator set the battery into a slow (yet accelerated from normal) decline. If the expense isn't a concern, I'd go ahead and replace the battery. If you'd prefer to forego the swap right away, you can make a habit of checking the battery's voltage regularly for the next few days/week before starting, while running, and after a while of having the engine turned off. You want to be able to determine if A) it's accepting charge and B) that it's holding charge. If it is looking good after a few days, then it's probably safe to say the battery was not degraded to the point of 'damage' and should be good to use for a while to come.

If I were in your position, I would buy a new one, swap it in, and keep the old one on a trickle charger as a spare. Or, just turn it in for the core return fee of $20 or whatever your vendor offers.
 
A digital battery load tester (~$60) is a good tool/investment to have if you have a lot of batteries. State of Health (SOH) feature seems to be pretty accurate.
 
Thanks for suggestions - I'd like to put this one to bed and not have to continue to check, so I'm leaning strongly towards replacement.

On that note (and not to open another can of worms) - Optima/Odyssey/North Star/others that are tried/true?
 
10-years out of one of my Odyssey's makes me a believer.
 
I've ran Optima's/Odyssey's/Northstar's in the past, currently using Northstar in my DD (not the 100). Only had a problem with the Odyssey, but didn't have any problems with the warranty replacement (I keep them maintained with a CTEK). With the 100 i'm trying something new, when it's time for a new battery i'm gonna try a H8/49 AGM. They have essentially the same specs as the factory 27F battery and you get the benefits of AGM. They are also the battery for lots of German cars and delivery trucks, so they are everywhere (even Walmart/Sams Club) for easy warranty replacement.
 
if you can swing $150 without batting an eye, absolutely get a new battery. with where you are going to be, it would always be a worry for me. im not surprised you had to get a new alternator. usually once the power steering pump leaks (onto the alternator) and gets replaced, the alternator is next because the power steering fluid got into the alt and killed it too. hopefully you got a denso reman.

optima's are made in mexico now i believe so they have had more issues since moving manufacture there. pep boys is around the corner from me so i have gone with a bosch AGM in two trucks. no failure yet. but the battery convo is almost as worm hole-ish as the oil debate. there might as well be a steveisthebatteryguy.com site. if you want to take the deep dive, there are essentially only 3 companies in the US making nearly EVERY battery you see- johnson controls, exide, east penn. happy researching!
 
Swith them out and if you have any time left on the battery warranty you will get a prorated cost. As @kruisinkid said I would rather spend a bit more money and consider it art of this overall repair than to have it alw
 

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