It's leaking they said, replace the power steering rack they said... (5 Viewers)

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...you've got to take care of this great Land Cruiser, that will be $3k they said.

Yep thats the stealership script for any identified leaks taking place anywhere remotely close to everything related to power steering, I'm pretty sure. Why was I at the stealership you ask? Its a fair question - I think its the 'free' cookies that keep pulling me back for those $80 oil changes...

Anyhow - I only get oil changes, I pass on everything else and fix it myself.

Question for you guys today is - in order of least expensive to most expensive, can you give steps on troubleshooting a 'leaking' power steering rack? I don't actually think its leaking, and if it is its a very slow leak as I filled the reservoir to max and it hasn't budged in 2 weeks since doing so.

Here is my attempt to answer my own question, please poke holes in my strategy:

1. drain fluid, refill with Mobil 1 ATF (I have noted virtually unanimous consensus here on Mud)
2. add hose clamps to prevent any leaking at connection points to reservoir
3. clean power steering res. I notice the filter is in a tricky place to clean, and there is debate on whether cleaning or replacement is best. I'm leaning towards replacement to eliminate the variable, thoughts? Its surprisingly not a cheap piece of plastic...
4. replace return line - mine doesn't appear to be leaking, but I'll do it if it helps the overall fix?
5. check connections running in front of/under front grill, possibly replace hose and/or add hose clamps?

That's my current strategy to not spend $3k.....appreciate any additional words of wisdom you may have to sprinkle on top....
 
I just replaced my PS reservoir, and I do recommend that over cleaning as it's not worth the risk of fluid starvation to the pump. See my post here. You could also add some AT-205 to the reservoir to help seal it up, but I'd try this first and see if you actually do have any leaks.
 
Drain, clean the reservoir, replace with Mobil1 ATF synthetic fluid, and add AT-205. Keep an eye on it over the next few weeks.

If your hoses/clamps are questionable, then replace.
 
Replace reservoir, I cleaned mine once...would never do that again.

Flush system, replace with Mobil 1 or Valvoline Maxlife AND add AT-205.

Hose clamp, yes. Look at return line, replace only if necessary.

Then just monitor it.
 
Thanks everyone for the great feedback -

Quick clarifying question on the AT-205 suggestions - is that specifically the ATP AT-205 product? It looks like it from a brief google tour, really the only thing coming up in results. So I assume so, but double checking that.

Thanks!
 
I Handle all leaks the same.
  1. Identify and record all wet areas.
  2. Clean and inspect that areas is spotless.
  3. Watch for leak to reappear and watch for level to drop or hold.

Power steering has many leak points. I order of most common first.
  1. Return and suction hose at reservoir. They get old, replace them if they are weeping and keep OEM clamps is best.
  2. Input shaft. (AT-205 80% effective.)
  3. High pressure line.
  4. Output shafts. (AT-205 less than 50% effective at just slowing.)
  5. Vane pump. (AT-205 20% effective.)
  6. Low pressure line.
AT-205 works well and best after a flushing and operating for extended period of time with synthetic ATF. The Synthetic (I use M1 ATF) ATF cleans the seal and allows AT-205 to work better. But using AT-205 first is a great tool also. Just not as effective in a dirty system.

Tons of good info here.

I'm been working on stopping leaks and flushing. Now that that's done and rack seem to have good gears and no leak remaining. I'm replacing rack mounting bushing (rubber OE style). Should be like new.

You may also want to look in index of my master thread (first link in signture line) for some additional tips.
 
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We have it here (advertising), and yes the same stuff: AT-205 Leak Stopper
Don't overfill the reservoir for those who are adding to an existing system, just suction some ATF out in the same quantity that you're adding in. It is best to add to fresh fluid however.
 
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@2001LC what product have you found best for cleaning up leaks from the power steering system?
 
Any de-greaser and a pressure washer.
I don't use the Purple Power original. It really works good, but is hard on paint.
POR-15 has one that's economically, mixed with water.
Citrus de-greaser from any store is just fine.
Gunk has some strong stuff, but smell lingers.
 
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This works well. Just don't get the 'foaming' version.

Gunk Degreaser.jpg
 
I like Simple Green for almost all purposes to degrease. Has a scent but I find it pleasant, is environmentally friendly, non-toxic, and biodegradable too so spills and drips are less a concern for pets.
 
300k miles is about right for that old hydraulic piston, if the PO/OO had taken care of fluid changes (they rarely do) MAYBE you could go beyond that- but the aged gunk from the inside of those hoses eventually will kill the rack and it WILL leak. You could do the 600 OEM part and hire a reputable mobile Toyota guy or trusted garage to do the install for about 400- lines another 200 or so if you use OEM rubber (Bulk PS hose is MUCH cheaper) and clean and de-gunk the reservoir and screen.. you're still saving a ton of money. If you're on a budget, Detroit Axle has a quality reman (my experience) for 240 with no core charge on Amazon and a lifetime guarantee, as long as you send in your OEM for them to rebuild. Just food for thought. My DA reman looked OEM to me, and SEEMED to be of great quality. YMMV. Do you have any service records that indicate that the rack was replaced in the past?
 
Reporting back real quick here -

Over the weekend took all of the above advice (thanks everyone) and did the following:

1. switched out reservoir with new Dorman OE version (via @CloudCity amazon storefront)
2. flushed current fluid
3. added M1 ATF + AT-205

Made a couple dumb mistakes and spilled stuff, but was a pretty easy job overall. System has noticeably quieted down since completion.
 
Nice job and a great example of the power of Mud! Hopefully you just saved $3k that can go towards gas for future adventures!
 
Reporting back real quick here -

Over the weekend took all of the above advice (thanks everyone) and did the following:

1. switched out reservoir with new Dorman OE version (via @CloudCity amazon storefront)
2. flushed current fluid
3. added M1 ATF + AT-205

Made a couple dumb mistakes and spilled stuff, but was a pretty easy job overall. System has noticeably quieted down since completion.
Nice job and a great example of the power of Mud! Hopefully you just saved $3k that can go towards gas for future adventures!

Came for the steering rack info. Leaving with a new set of hatch struts from @CloudCity . Didn't know about your store!
 

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